jano mad racer these motors are great they are very inexpensive and run as good or better then most of the named motors out there i run the 5 port .21 and runs great in truggy and buggy and now have the 6 port .25 in truggy and a 3 port .21 race spec in the buggy and they are all good motors and get plenty of life out of them. my 5 port has alittle over 9 gallons on it now and finally low on compression where needs to be replaced. i know rb makes good motors and unfurtintly they are all over priced for the average racer like myself that wants to go fast but pay as little as possible. let us know if need anything else thnx will g

HAs anyone had any problem with their 3 port R spec's glow plugs backing out on them. I just ran a tank through to break in some parts and my plug backed out on me. This is the third time it's happend. It's not cross threaded and I'm putting them in tight "97t turbo plugs". Maybe it's just a fluke, or maybe I didn't tighten it enough last time. I guess I'll wait it out and see if it happens again.

Tighten it more, if the plug screwed in normally there is VERY little chance anything is actually wrong.

i just got my 5 port .21 and have ran10 tanks through it my question is do i leave the shimm in it or do i take it out and just leave the one shimm in thanks any help i don't want to screw this motor up

i guess i should say that i got it from racefactor and russell said to put the extra shimm in on break in and i don't remember if he said to take the extra shimm out after breakin

Well leaving the shim in will not hurt anything. I left my shim in my .21- 7port and it runs awesome! Taking it out will give you more compression and therefore more performance but if you are happy with it now I would leave it alone.

General rule of thumb is to take the break in shim out after you loose most of the metal pinch and the motor picks up in performance ( 1.5 - 2 gal). It is designed as a ¨break in¨shim to lower the compression and make it easier to start and run the motor when it is tight from new. Also takes a bit of strain off the con rod during this time. The motors are designed to run at the compression given with the original shims. For safety you should also replace the con rod after 2 gal due to the excessive strains placed on it during break in. They have been known to fail when the motor really starts to rev out later in it´s life. Cheap insurance, then you can give it death and not worry

Thankz guys for the info i guess i will leave it in for now . i have not even got it to half throttle yet i don't know if its ready for it yet it like i said i don't want to mess this up other motors i just put fuel in and go race don't even break them in properly

ok

if you've got a gallon your be fine to use full throttle just tune for performance if it starts to lean bog at full throttle richen it up and look for the smoke trail

adrian

Has anyone compared the Mach 427 with the GO .28? Is there a noticable power difference?
Also is it going to take a gallon of fuel to get it broke in to be ready to race?

thanks guys after all of yall's praise on the go .21 5 port i have made up my mind. i am without a doubt going to pick one of these bad boys up. ill keep ya posted on how it goes

Hey wenotlast, brian34 can hook you up with a
GO motor. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...56#post4531956
Just give him a shout.

to retro rc,i race tune yesterday da 3R ,it lean bogs so i richen the HSN,it feels better THKS...............

I have a question. I just got a 5 port. I need to break it in as well but what glow plug should i use for it? thanks