Losi 8ight building and setup
05-30-2008, 07:31 AM
#6932
Can anyone help me out with the best base setup for the track pictured. Going to a State title there and want somewhere to start as i havent had the 8ight long and havent found the right setup yet.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=88912&page=27
Scroll down half the page and pics are there.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=88912&page=27
Scroll down half the page and pics are there.
05-30-2008, 05:37 PM
#6933
This is a safe bet....
My base setup would prob work there.
Diffs front to rear = 4/6/2 or 5/5/2
Med (black) sway bars all the way around.
Green spring front and rear.
Chassis at 26mm in the front & 27mm in the rear for ride height.
Ackermann Long
Bumpsteer Ball up.
Shocks = Fronts and rears are 55/40 mounted middle on the tower and inside on the arm.
Wheel base is 1 spacer in the back and 2 spacers in the front.
Camber links = Front is inside hole & Rear is inside lower and middle on the hub carrier.
2mm offset hub extension on the rear and 1mm hub extension on the front.
Front toe @ 1 - 1.5 out
Rear toe @ 3 in
Rear Antisquat @3
Tires are Crime Fighters in M3. Bowities in M3 will have less sidebite but more forward bite. Or combine the two to tune. If traction gets real high go to M2 compounds.
Clutch = If the top soil stays loose and fluffy then go all carbon with gold springs. If the traction comes up then go to 2 alum combined with the two carbons or anywhere in between.
13 - 48 gears.
This is a good-easy to drive-setup that allows you some quick tuning each direction. If you make the most of your track time you will be OK and probably make only a minor adjustment or two.
The shocks will keep you out of trouble on the large jumps and when holes develop. Most guys like this after they drive it and realize how easy it is.
Let us know how it goes & I hope this helps.
TEX
Diffs front to rear = 4/6/2 or 5/5/2
Med (black) sway bars all the way around.
Green spring front and rear.
Chassis at 26mm in the front & 27mm in the rear for ride height.
Ackermann Long
Bumpsteer Ball up.
Shocks = Fronts and rears are 55/40 mounted middle on the tower and inside on the arm.
Wheel base is 1 spacer in the back and 2 spacers in the front.
Camber links = Front is inside hole & Rear is inside lower and middle on the hub carrier.
2mm offset hub extension on the rear and 1mm hub extension on the front.
Front toe @ 1 - 1.5 out
Rear toe @ 3 in
Rear Antisquat @3
Tires are Crime Fighters in M3. Bowities in M3 will have less sidebite but more forward bite. Or combine the two to tune. If traction gets real high go to M2 compounds.
Clutch = If the top soil stays loose and fluffy then go all carbon with gold springs. If the traction comes up then go to 2 alum combined with the two carbons or anywhere in between.
13 - 48 gears.
This is a good-easy to drive-setup that allows you some quick tuning each direction. If you make the most of your track time you will be OK and probably make only a minor adjustment or two.
The shocks will keep you out of trouble on the large jumps and when holes develop. Most guys like this after they drive it and realize how easy it is.
Let us know how it goes & I hope this helps.
TEX
05-30-2008, 07:26 PM
#6935
+1 to that! being a track director myself that impresses me a lot!
05-30-2008, 10:09 PM
#6936
Yeah, by the looks of it, theve put in a huge effort for a state event..... Looks unreal with some big jumps and technical sections.
05-31-2008, 12:02 AM
#6937
Hey guys this may be weird but I am an Xray driver, I use to drive the losi's a while ago. I have a few questions real quick for you losi guys if you do not mind me asking. 1,being- Do you guys have anymore rear diff problems in the buggy, 2,being- Do you guys have anymore problems with the throttle servos going out. Also what do you guys replace and maintain the most, besides,clutch'diff&shock oil. Thanks again guys and can't wait to hear some replys.
Josh
Josh
05-31-2008, 12:31 AM
#6938
C'mon LosiEight, level with us why you want to know these things? Seems fishy when you don't even have our buggy. But, I will play along.
I've had absolutely no servo problems in two full years of racing. No tranny probs either. I do find a bit of premature wear in the cv joint of the front center dog bone after a month of racing. I've owned Mugen and Kyosho before Losi and honestly, each of these cars had weak points. But what I HAVE learned is that all of them need to be maintained on a regular basis. If you take care of any car, it will last and be reliable.
I've had absolutely no servo problems in two full years of racing. No tranny probs either. I do find a bit of premature wear in the cv joint of the front center dog bone after a month of racing. I've owned Mugen and Kyosho before Losi and honestly, each of these cars had weak points. But what I HAVE learned is that all of them need to be maintained on a regular basis. If you take care of any car, it will last and be reliable.
05-31-2008, 01:08 AM
#6939
Thanks Geo, Na man no fishyness here...
I was just curious. I had both the 8T and 8B before I got picked up by Xray and I was just curious to stop by the thread and ask some ?'s. Just to see if the problems that I knew were going on with the losi's when I had them have been solved. Thats all.
Thanks again man for your quick reply. Hey Geo how are you liking those GRP engines?
I was just curious. I had both the 8T and 8B before I got picked up by Xray and I was just curious to stop by the thread and ask some ?'s. Just to see if the problems that I knew were going on with the losi's when I had them have been solved. Thats all.Thanks again man for your quick reply. Hey Geo how are you liking those GRP engines?
05-31-2008, 01:23 AM
#6940
I clean and sand the brake discs pretty often. Seems they get quite a bit of dirt and glaze on them. But pulling the center diff is easy, and having the pads cleaned and back in place only takes 10 minutes as you probably already know.
Other than that, just bearing up-keep.
Other than that, just bearing up-keep.
05-31-2008, 05:50 AM
#6941
I clean and sand the brake discs pretty often. Seems they get quite a bit of dirt and glaze on them. But pulling the center diff is easy, and having the pads cleaned and back in place only takes 10 minutes as you probably already know.
Other than that, just bearing up-keep.
Other than that, just bearing up-keep.
05-31-2008, 09:53 AM
#6942
Thanks guys for reply's.
05-31-2008, 10:21 AM
#6943
Hey guys. I just orderd an OFNA Hyper .21 motor from tower for like $160. I wanted the Gotech 5 port but Amain was out of stock and this buggy has been sitting bare on my work table for over a month.
I was looking for a motor in the $200 range or under as this is my first buggy. I didnt want anything too insane or high priced. Maybe later I'll step up to a "better" motor.
So can any one tell me how what I should expect from this engine? From the specs, it similar to the GoTech 5 port. Same PRM, Power and RPM range.
Thanks in advance,
Rafael
I was looking for a motor in the $200 range or under as this is my first buggy. I didnt want anything too insane or high priced. Maybe later I'll step up to a "better" motor.So can any one tell me how what I should expect from this engine? From the specs, it similar to the GoTech 5 port. Same PRM, Power and RPM range.
Thanks in advance,
Rafael
06-01-2008, 12:20 AM
#6944
This engine is like no other. I've owned many others and right off the bat, I noticed very low temperatures while being at a race tune. The sweet spot for these engines is between 185 to 200 degrees. If you buy one, pay attention to the engraved logos on all of the internal parts. Very high quality Italian craftsmanship. It's a five port and it seems pull endlessly. I'm running the JP3 pipe. Amazing runtime. I average nine minutes per tank. I love the four springs it comes with for holding on the header. I've got two gallons through mine now and it's very impressive. I would rate this mill right along side of the RB C6 or a Nova P5.
