Go-Tech Engines Thread
#2791
The GO tech new FEMCA 0801 tuned pipe is pretty good at all kind of GO .21 size engines.


#2792
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 502
From: Surprise! No, really.
gud day to all! i would like to ask re the go .21 3ports r spec eng ? i use a go 2047 pipe and an os p3 glow plug already breaked it in and it idles well the only thing thats not to my liking is that if i start running it it bogs down affter full throtle and i loose power once i sqeeze the trigger.... any insite on this one pls...?

I ran my 7 port for the first time at a major race this weekend, from about 1/2 a gallon to just under 2. Something interesting happened right near the bottom of the first gallon and I now understand what people mean when they say just wait until the pinch goes. Basically in the period of a couple tanks the retard amount of pinch went all but away, to the point where I can now turn it over by hand and the motor got simply amazing. The power was as good or better then anything at the track, including vspecs, rb c6's and the likes. It was awesome, and the best part I was getting over 10 mins of runtime with a 053 pipe. Anyone looking for a motor for a big open outside track this is the one for you, at 200 bucks you just cant beat it. On a smaller track it might be to much to handle so look to your 3 port for something like that.
Very impressed at this awesome little motor!
Very impressed at this awesome little motor!
#2794
#2795
need to replace all of the orings on my 7pt, can anybody tell me which part numbers are for the high needle oring and the oring for the car body (top) and also the bottom oring. i don;t need to replace the venturi orings, but definitely the bottom oring on the carb body(inside the crank case)
thanks
thanks
#2796
need to replace all of the orings on my 7pt, can anybody tell me which part numbers are for the high needle oring and the oring for the car body (top) and also the bottom oring. i don;t need to replace the venturi orings, but definitely the bottom oring on the carb body(inside the crank case)
thanks
thanks
carb body TOP o-ring is #OR-0014
carb body BOTTOM (inside crankcase) #OR-0004
I can get them for you too.
#2801
FYI guys... the 3 port race is perfect in Truggy as well.
Put it in the A at RD2 of the RC Pro last weekend.
I ran the .25 in RD1 then the 3R. The .25 was more power, but the 3 held its own and I ran it the rest of the weekend.
I ran the 08 3R in my buggy with the new GO pipe and it was awesome as well, it honestly felt like more power than my older 3R + 2047 and it wasn't all the way broken in yet.
You know your engine is fast when you come in for fuel before the start of quals and a few people walk over and see what you are running before your pit guy puts you back down. lol
Put it in the A at RD2 of the RC Pro last weekend.
I ran the .25 in RD1 then the 3R. The .25 was more power, but the 3 held its own and I ran it the rest of the weekend.
I ran the 08 3R in my buggy with the new GO pipe and it was awesome as well, it honestly felt like more power than my older 3R + 2047 and it wasn't all the way broken in yet.
You know your engine is fast when you come in for fuel before the start of quals and a few people walk over and see what you are running before your pit guy puts you back down. lol
#2803
no problem man... with the .25 i was over shooting that jump. lol
to bad you had a rough start in your main cause once you got clear you were flying... just ran out of time.
good meeting you. sorry i didnt have any hats with me!
to bad you had a rough start in your main cause once you got clear you were flying... just ran out of time.
good meeting you. sorry i didnt have any hats with me!



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