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Old 04-26-2008 | 08:48 AM
  #2461  
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
Thanks Brian for the quick response. One last question; If a gallon is about the limit, do you mod motors that are worn out with a new piston/sleeve/conrod package+bearings, or is it basically a waste of time with out a new crank, therefore the cost is as high as a new motor?

No it's not a waste of time, if you can measure the crank pin on your engine and pm me what you get, i need the smallest diamiter to the biggest, just rotate the calipers around the pin, and see the smallest and biggest # and pm me with that #.
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Old 04-26-2008 | 11:21 AM
  #2462  
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I was just cleaning my engine when i noticed that the carb is "moving" when i push it left and right.
The screw that secures the carb in the crank case is tight.
It's not a very noticeable movement but there is definitely some.
I installed it on the car and when using the throttle or brake i could also notice the small movement.
Is this normal...?
I know there is a small o-ring on the base of the carb...could that be the problem?
Will it go into the engine if it goes totally bad?
I didn't want to remove the carb since i have silicone around the neck and such and it would take some time to reinstall and i was busy.

As for it moving when on the car i would like to inform before you ask, that i have my linkages set right and are not dragging on the carb...
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Old 04-26-2008 | 12:12 PM
  #2463  
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Originally Posted by cesspool
Hey guys,

I have a Go-Tech 3 port sport and I am going to install the turbo head on it. What plug do you reccommend and how should I shim? I run 30%. also what do you factor in to decide what restrictor to use? I have the stock one and bought a pack that contains 6.5, 7, 7.5 and 8MM venturis.

Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get this engine on my Jammin!!
anyone?
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Old 04-26-2008 | 12:16 PM
  #2464  
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Go Tech engines come from the factory ready for 30% so ne need to shim. The extra shim included in the box is to help ease the beak-in process.

Changing to the turbo head shouldn't be a problem I would richen the needle settings slightly then retune for performance.

The plugs to use are OS P3 or Odonnel 99T
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Old 04-26-2008 | 02:08 PM
  #2465  
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Originally Posted by vti-chris
I was just cleaning my engine when i noticed that the carb is "moving" when i push it left and right.
The screw that secures the carb in the crank case is tight.
It's not a very noticeable movement but there is definitely some.
I installed it on the car and when using the throttle or brake i could also notice the small movement.
Is this normal...?
I know there is a small o-ring on the base of the carb...could that be the problem?
Will it go into the engine if it goes totally bad?
I didn't want to remove the carb since i have silicone around the neck and such and it would take some time to reinstall and i was busy.

As for it moving when on the car i would like to inform before you ask, that i have my linkages set right and are not dragging on the carb...
Hi vti-chris, I had exactly the same thing on one of my 5 Ports which has about 2.5 gallons through it. When I pulled the carb I found that the bottom carb O ring (the brown coloured one in the crankcase housing, not on the carb neck itself) was all shredded. I couldn't get another one at the time so cleaned it up as best I could and reinstalled the carb with some new silicone. Motor runs fine and doesn't have any leaks in this area, but the carb still moves slightly left and right when throttle applied. I am only running one silicone throttle return band and linkages are all good, so the O ring would appear to be the problem. It is worn just enough to allow the base of the carb some slight sideways movement. Replacing the lower O ring should solve the problem. My other 5 Port is fine. I think someone else had a similar problem a few pages back.
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Old 04-26-2008 | 02:37 PM
  #2466  
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Default go tech 3 port

I just broke in my 3 port sport using 20%, should i have took one of the shims out? just read that it is shimed for 30%.

now I want to put the turbo button in, do i need to go through break in again.

will the dynamite 086 pipe work well with this engine.
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Old 04-26-2008 | 02:42 PM
  #2467  
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Originally Posted by vti-chris
I was just cleaning my engine when i noticed that the carb is "moving" when i push it left and right.
The screw that secures the carb in the crank case is tight.
It's not a very noticeable movement but there is definitely some.
I installed it on the car and when using the throttle or brake i could also notice the small movement.
Is this normal...?
I know there is a small o-ring on the base of the carb...could that be the problem?
Will it go into the engine if it goes totally bad?
I didn't want to remove the carb since i have silicone around the neck and such and it would take some time to reinstall and i was busy.

As for it moving when on the car i would like to inform before you ask, that i have my linkages set right and are not dragging on the carb...
I just noticed this on my 7 port at the pro series race last weekend, my carb was moving at the metal bushing which goes over the plastic where it goes down into the block. I would contact Racefactor as they are going to get it taken care of when I send it in.
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Old 04-26-2008 | 02:46 PM
  #2468  
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Mugen check your pm's, I pm'd you about purchasing a motor.
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Old 04-26-2008 | 08:09 PM
  #2469  
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Originally Posted by cesspool
Hey guys,

I have a Go-Tech 3 port sport and I am going to install the turbo head on it. What plug do you reccommend and how should I shim? I run 30%. also what do you factor in to decide what restrictor to use? I have the stock one and bought a pack that contains 6.5, 7, 7.5 and 8MM venturis.

Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get this engine on my Jammin!!
Shimming should be the same for Turbo or standard button, I reccommend an Odonnel 97t. Just try the different inserts and see how the motor feels with different ones. You will need to lean out your motor after going smaller with inserts.

Rex
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Old 04-26-2008 | 08:54 PM
  #2470  
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on a 7 port turbo hear, when you do the solder test for head clearance what should it be ?

I am getting about .92mm and I think that is a little much.... I thougt my novarossi's where about .65mm


Thanks
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Old 04-26-2008 | 11:44 PM
  #2471  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi vti-chris, I had exactly the same thing on one of my 5 Ports which has about 2.5 gallons through it. When I pulled the carb I found that the bottom carb O ring (the brown coloured one in the crankcase housing, not on the carb neck itself) was all shredded. I couldn't get another one at the time so cleaned it up as best I could and reinstalled the carb with some new silicone. Motor runs fine and doesn't have any leaks in this area, but the carb still moves slightly left and right when throttle applied. I am only running one silicone throttle return band and linkages are all good, so the O ring would appear to be the problem. It is worn just enough to allow the base of the carb some slight sideways movement. Replacing the lower O ring should solve the problem. My other 5 Port is fine. I think someone else had a similar problem a few pages back.

Can the bottom o-ring in any way find it's way into the engine if not taken care of.
I have an important race in a week and don't want to mess with the carb now.
Was it completely ruined?
I was looking on a brand new 5 port the other day and it did move slightly as well but not as much as mine.
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Old 04-27-2008 | 12:22 AM
  #2472  
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Originally Posted by MassiveMods
yes thats fine . just watch how you do it so not to change the edges of the piston .


Cheers MM

www.massivemods.com
Thanks Mark, much appreciated
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Old 04-27-2008 | 05:00 AM
  #2473  
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Originally Posted by vti-chris
I was just cleaning my engine when i noticed that the carb is "moving" when i push it left and right.
The screw that secures the carb in the crank case is tight.
It's not a very noticeable movement but there is definitely some.
I installed it on the car and when using the throttle or brake i could also notice the small movement.
Is this normal...?
I know there is a small o-ring on the base of the carb...could that be the problem?
Will it go into the engine if it goes totally bad?
I didn't want to remove the carb since i have silicone around the neck and such and it would take some time to reinstall and i was busy.

As for it moving when on the car i would like to inform before you ask, that i have my linkages set right and are not dragging on the carb...
Had the same problem with mine mate.

To fix this pull the retaining screw out, then the two halfs of the locking bolt that clamps the carbi in the crankcase then grab an angle grinder and shave a small amount off the midle of both of the pinch bolts, dont bother trying to do it with a file as it is hardened steel and you will be there for a year, or use a pedestal bench grinder just be carefull, and i promise you this will fix your problem, just dont forget to seal the pinch bolts after and lock tight the retaining bolt when you line the carbi back up.
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Old 04-27-2008 | 07:15 AM
  #2474  
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So in other words, the locking nuts are too long and lock before they lock the carb.
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Old 04-27-2008 | 07:23 AM
  #2475  
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yeppers
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