Novarossi C6TF plug.
25% nitro, 15 oil
135 degrees temp at glow plug.

It should run fast and hard for a long time, but if you run 30% and minimal oil i would run it a bit richer so it lasts so IMO your better off running what i stated but each to their own.

PS: they dont make as much power running rich, well thats what i found.
Leak test your engine because i found after i ran mine in the front engine bearing leaked pretty bad considering how new it was. Just a heads up.

Is there any update on the availability of the 7port turbo and the 3 port race spec?

we just had are first race of the year . i ran my little 3 port sport and held tq for 1st and 2nd q's finished 2nd in the a -main. raced with all the big name motors like o.s., rb ,falcon ,picco ,nova rossi & ect . and spanked them with $115.00 motor !!

ok thank you but what do you guys have your immensity set to on your temp guns?

with standard plugs yes you need to use short body but with the turbo button you can use either without a problem with the NR long body turbo plugs all that happens is that bottom of the plug tightens down onto the seat of the turbo button (as both the plug and botton are tappered) and some of the thread is left above the button.

it will not harm your engine and I know this because all I have run in my turbo GO engines for the last 12months are long body turbo NR plugs

Adrian

I have never adjusted the immensity on mytemos guns I just use the factory settings. It best to try andget in the habit of watching for smoke and only use the temp gun to make sure that your not running hot.

The engine will want to run at 250-260 until it gets around a gallon and a half thru it. I would reccomend if you run at that temp to just run it easy, or tune it down so it runs around 240. After you get over the 1 gallon mark then you can push it harder.

Todddye Their on their way should be in this week.

DVP congrats man those 3port sport engines are really good.

my new 5 port was running 330°+ at the track last weekend.. pulled the carb and I have a shredded crank case oring. I used RTV to seal the carb base, pinch bolt, and backplate. What would cause this, and where can i get some new orings?

You can get the O-Rings from Go if you want the part number PM me and I will give it too you.It is a known thing some engines have bad seals its not there fault just rubber problem you can also email Russell and tell him your problem he will help you out I had the same problem just put a novarossi seal on it gonna order a go tech one this weekend.

I thought the new motors had orings on the pinch bolt (per parts diagram), or I would have done a better job with the RTV there. Oh well...

The new. orings are firmer than the old black rings, if for whatever reason you take the carb off when the motor is brand new you will notice that you will have to apply a good bit of preasure to keep the carb in the case. When applying it back in just use some after run oil on the neck of the carb, this will help it slide backin and not tear the oring, you will know if it's a new oring if it is peanutbutter brown.

To get the best seal on tghe pinch bolt, pull the screw out first, gthen apply ULTRA BLACK permatex when the two parts are in the case, do it in a round motion so you can see that there is no visible area of the pinch bolt on both sides, then place the screw in and the screw will be sealed as well, and don't overtighten the pinch bolt. as with any engine sealing the back plate is also a good habit.

Just out of interest, I noticed the carb on my 5 port was slightly loose the other day. It was still tight in the crankcase housing, but moved slightly sideways when the throttle was applied. I am not running a strong throttle return spring, just 2 x silicone throttle bands.
On removal of the carb I discovered the new "peanut brown" O ring in the crankcase housing was all shredded. This is a relatively new motor with approx 2 gallons through it. The carb has not been previously removed. It wasn't causing any problems, motor was running fine with good stable temps. Just thought it might be something for you guys to check on your motors.

Good post grizz, yes the carbs in the motor are not really that tight when they are new, its a good idea really to check the motor befor running it in, i don't get a chance to check all the motors mainly the modded motors i do are fully inspected simply for the reason they are broke down fully to do the work. If you buy a stock engine pull it apart just to be sure the insides are clean of any debree or small bits of alum, this should be done with any motor that is new, to ensure that the carb is tight, loosen the pinch bolt be for starting the engine and apply preasure to the top of the carb to be sure it is seated all the way down and then tighten the pinch bolt, once the oring that is on the carb neck is seated to the case it shouldn't have any movement, and with the new orings they have seated tighter than i have ever seen, which is good, the new 3 port race engines have the best carb fit to date, i would expect that is rolling over to the other race engines as swell. Hope that helps

Are the 3 ports availabla for purchase yet? There is a hole in my MBX5R that needs fillled!

Same thing here.

Just waiting to hear back when and where they will be available.

Mine was only shredded on the pinch bolt side.. but there's little pieces of oring all in the case, might want to check yours. Think I'll pick up some Novarossi orings, thanks Justin and Brian for the tips.