yea get a $15 crock pot specifically for it.

Dual sealed bearings have a bit more drag then single sealed. you can remove the inner seal if its rubber to help a little.

Hey bud, the TKO front is sealed on both sides, and they are packed with blue grease this will go away after you run it, to tell if it is seated correctly just by eyeballing it, the outer edge of the bearing should be just flush or a tic below depending on how the front of the case was machined. you can also heat the motor up to 200 and then spin the crank and work the bearings back and forth, and if it spins free at temp you should be fine, how did you install the bearing, bearing tool? or oven heat?

You can heat the engine in the oven at 350 degrees for 15 min, then put the bearing in the freezer, around 20 to 30 minutes, once the engine is hot, pull it out with gloves, pull the bearing out of the freezer, it will slip in easily. I usually put the crank in the engine first, that way when you put the bearing over the crank, it lines up perfectly, make sure the bearing is down as far as it will go. Then your good to go.

Any news on the performance of the 3 port spec R???

So far the motor seems to have alot of potential, i still have metal pinch so i'm waiting for that to go, I will have the RC8 loaded with the Race Spec going to Atlanta, i will be there when the gates open, so i will have a gallon or two through the motor befor days end. So far the motor seems to pull very well, smooth snap off the bottom, it pulls longer and doesnt ramp up as fast as the sport, the spec pulls with just as much force but longer, the crank in the spec is also different, so it has the goods just have to give it time to get fully broke in, and yes the motor is still stock, and will stay that way for about 3 to 4 gallons. Tune= the tune on the motor is very simple to find, i went to far a few times and the motor lets you know, i have ran the GO and JP3, the biggest thing i noticed was the GO kept the bottom liner, the JP3 gave it more but felt to much on the dirt, top end on both where close, and I'm running a 7 mm insert

Russel my .28 red head seems to be misfiring. I was running around the local race track yesterday and there were no problems on the first 3 tanks, then it started misfiring after that - it even stalls when it misfires. Put in a new plug but still the same. Using Cosmo 25% fuel from Japan. Oh the misfire stops though after the temp goes up but it seems to be a little down on power.

I'm going to take the engine apart this week to eyeball it then give it a general cleaning, but was just wondering if anyone ever experienced this before and would know what caused it. Thanks

Be sure to use a new plug, I'm sure you did that but just saying, after you check out the internale just be sure to use the extra shim included in the box, and be sure the back plate and head bolts are tight. Can you get 30%?, be sure the botton and piston don't look pitted if so then the nitro % is not correct for the deck height. I have had this happen and once i installed the shim and retightened the backplate and head bolts it was all good, hope this helps

Thanks Brian I'll try this. Just curious as to why I should add the extra shim as its been running well till this time. BTW I've run about 1.5 gallons thru this engine already.

Hey, well my day was kinda fun... a bunch of buds came over and we all drove our cars and stuff... I had to drive my KMI 09 though because my Go motor is so tight my starter box won't turn it over cold and none of my friends would let me take the time to heat it up... lol ANYWAY just wondering if a hairdryer could substitute a heat gun??? thanks!

GOOD NEWS FOLKS !!

Team RC Hobby Zone 's first day back in racing in SA takes out Truggy 1st and TQ !!!

Team Driver " Deano " Was running the Go .28 Pro 6 port with our new A Main blend of Go Go Juice !!! great start to the year for Go and A Main thanks to RC Hobby Zones awesome race team !

The Go .28 only had 4 tanks of run in before it was thrown onto the track and raced . It Proved to be reliable with power on tap and as usual 0 Flame outs !

as a point of interest, in MT a GO 21 5 port got TQ and overall 1st, and in Buggy a GO 21 5 port got TQ and overall win !!

This is a very convincing statement for the Go engine quality !

if you havent got one yet , what are you waiting for !

MASSIVE MODS !!!

www.massivemods.com.au

sorry bud i thought the motor was new, adding the shim just help reduce the compresion during breakin and the pinch doesnt affect it as much making it easier during the breakin.

While i tend to Agree Mark with your statements and Yes Deano`s car was flying, most of the top drivers were not at the race day therefore was an easy win.

Not to take away from Go Tech motors and your work but next meeting we will see

Darrens wheel fell off in his Savage while he was leading the day in MT, so yeah reliability was the key factor.
The finish of MT first round was .8 of a second with a shunt deciding the outcome in favour of the Savage with LRP power, but it was a rubbing is racing incident, one of the best MT Races ive ever seen. Second round, Darrens wheel fell off "While in the lead" and Myles Go Tech Revo cruised around for an easy win.

That motor in Deanos car has some serious power, never seen it go so fast before, hes a great driver no doubts.

Buggy class was a great win for Go Tech motors, thats no doubts at all there, his consistancy and lap times prove that those motors are serious bussiness.
I was racing in the A-Main myself, on a very rough track and with my Modifed OS in my MBX5R i was having a hard time catching him, mind you im just and average driver in my first year of racing.Once again the championship winner was not there and the next best driver was interstate and come 3rd over all in the titles.
Not to take wind out of you sails Mark but i think regardless of the results you have slightly overglorified Go Tech considering the facts, time will tell.

If they are that good maybe ill take My 5 port out of my tool box and stick it back in my car :]

Snookums, It sounds like your engine is breaking in the top end, so your needle setting were fine but now the metal pinch is going away. I would guess that the engine is going fat and splashing out your plug, thats causing the flameouts and misfires. Lean it a couple hours on top and see how it runs, but keep an eye on the temps so its not too hot.

Thanks Russel. Can you tell me what the max safe temp should be? I normally run the engine to about 220-230.

Could someone please tell me if a hair dryer would be sufficient enough to heat my motor up because this thing is uber tight!