Go-Tech Engines Thread
#1021
Jason....maybe I can talk to you some at WOR. Looking for a new motor for '08 for buggy. Deciding between a Ninja and a GO. I will be at the WOR race. Running 1/8th scale expert, 1/10th scale and maybe under 40 (hey, might as well get practice while you can). Would love to get a look at the motors. Do you run stock or mod motors and turbo or non-turbo?
Thanks,
Casey Wright
Thanks,
Casey Wright
#1022
Vti-chris the Go and Hong Nor 2047 pipes are identical as far as powerband, Hong Nor makes the Go pipe for Go but I don't know if the Hong Nor pipe features the 45* pressure nipple as well as the side mount screw for the stinger support.
Genreaper that is definately a pipe issue, on the dyno with the same pipe the go 5port puts out more bottom end and the v-spec pulls it slightly at the top.
Grizz1 that is unusual because the turbo button usually makes the engines run a little cooler. it may have just been difference in weather from the last time you drove, but I am glad your liking the added power, i think the turbo is a must in truggy on the .21's
Genreaper that is definately a pipe issue, on the dyno with the same pipe the go 5port puts out more bottom end and the v-spec pulls it slightly at the top.
Grizz1 that is unusual because the turbo button usually makes the engines run a little cooler. it may have just been difference in weather from the last time you drove, but I am glad your liking the added power, i think the turbo is a must in truggy on the .21's
#1023
Just a couple of questions guys: I fitted a turbo head button today and headed off to the track for a test run. Wicked 
Temps were a little higher than usual so just wondering if this is tied up with the turbo button. I was running standard head with Go #5 plug before and running consistantly at 110 C at the end of a tank. Running LRP #6 with turbo head and ending tank at 120 C which is a little hotter than I would like (yeah I know temp means nothing, but I normally like to keep my engines below 120 C). I did hear these GO engines like to run a little warmer ??
Power with turbo plug was awesome by the way. Crisper response and lots of wheel stands off the jumps
My friend was running an identical truggy with a .28 (not sure of make) and we were racing each other pretty hard from a full tank. He was consistantly running out of fuel when I had a quater tank left, plus I was blitzing him for power !! He is planning to get one as soon as he can. Got to love these GO engines

Temps were a little higher than usual so just wondering if this is tied up with the turbo button. I was running standard head with Go #5 plug before and running consistantly at 110 C at the end of a tank. Running LRP #6 with turbo head and ending tank at 120 C which is a little hotter than I would like (yeah I know temp means nothing, but I normally like to keep my engines below 120 C). I did hear these GO engines like to run a little warmer ??
Power with turbo plug was awesome by the way. Crisper response and lots of wheel stands off the jumps
My friend was running an identical truggy with a .28 (not sure of make) and we were racing each other pretty hard from a full tank. He was consistantly running out of fuel when I had a quater tank left, plus I was blitzing him for power !! He is planning to get one as soon as he can. Got to love these GO engineshows the testing with the 2047 I lent you going, don't worry about the temps to much as my 7pt turbo runs at about 120-130 no problem also it maybe that your engine is still a little tight mine took about 7 ltrs to really open up
#1024
Genreaper that is definately a pipe issue, on the dyno with the same pipe the go 5port puts out more bottom end and the v-spec pulls it slightly at the top.
V-Spec is still stock, but that may change soon too.
Not to discredit your findings, but coming from an Ex Drag Racing Scene, the amount of times ive heard the word "Dyno" and actual on track performance i always take it with a pinch of salt.
Here is two videos of the motors on the same track, sure one is a hyper 8 pro with the Go Tech and a 14 tooth clutch bell, and the other is a MBX5R with OS and 13 tooth clutch bell but you tell me the OS has less power out of corners, I beg to differ. Yeah i crashed the Hyper 8 just before the main straight and got a lean bog coming along the main straight but its got more top end than a OS believe me.
http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/MBX5R_Whyalla.wmv = 30 meg
http://www.zone3adelaide.com/rcmovie...0round%203.wmv = 18 meg Yellow and Red car. Day time footage was actualy a Nosram motor, i put the Go Tech in for Night Racing.
That is NOT my local track either, but ill tell you what ill do, ill put the OS in for a meeting and then next meet ill try the Go Tech and we will see what the results are. Im gonna be trying a JP-1 and maybe a Jp-3 early next season, with the OS but i may buy another pipe, whatever is reccomended with the Go Tech and give it another run, but as it stands atm the Go Tech is now in the Tool box as a spare cause it lack the bottom end power that the OS seems to put out. Bear in mind the OS is very new and not fully loosened up either.
Sorry if i sound like a sarcastic prick but i know what i know.
Last edited by GenReaper; 12-29-2007 at 05:16 PM.
#1025
Gen to each there own...the Vspec is a great engine also, but i just prefer my Go 5port over either of my Vspecs EB or stock...
i see that you have JP-1 listed in your sig...is this the pipe your running on your Go engine???
i see that you have JP-1 listed in your sig...is this the pipe your running on your Go engine???
#1026
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 881
From: Lincoln Park-Chicago
I run my GO 3 port sport against V-Specs all the time on a 110' straight. There are now guys with V-Specs, modded RB WS7II's and Ninja motors buying GO 3 and 5 ports around here. That makes me very happy.
#1029
i see that you have JP-1 listed in your sig...is this the pipe your running on your Go engine???
Then i may buy a JP-3 but i dont like the sounds of run time with that pipe.
I run a Hyper 8 Pro pipe "dual Chamber" with the Go Tech as i said before and it screams with it. Great run time too.
Same pipe as whats on my old car in the link - http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/Picture%20064.jpg
#1030
Genreaper I agree with you that dyno's are not the end all. I noticed your comparison has two different cars geared differently, I think it would be interesting to see if you swapped engines between the cars and switched the gearing so the mugen was Go powered with a 13 tooth and ho bao was o.s. powered with a 14 tooth.
It may have just been the mod work.
I ran my 5port with a Jp-2 for a long time and thought it scresmed, but then I ran one with a 086 and it was so much better thruought the powerband
It may have just been the mod work.
I ran my 5port with a Jp-2 for a long time and thought it scresmed, but then I ran one with a 086 and it was so much better thruought the powerband
#1031
Tech Addict
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 571
Jason-do you think I should get a mid range or top end pipe with the .18? I'm up in the air...can get the THS 1046 for cheaper but...for some reason I think I'll be up in the rpm's for the majority of the time just like I am with the 2.5R so...perhaps I'll want the THS 146C instead. Let me know what you think.
#1032
Jason-do you think I should get a mid range or top end pipe with the .18? I'm up in the air...can get the THS 1046 for cheaper but...for some reason I think I'll be up in the rpm's for the majority of the time just like I am with the 2.5R so...perhaps I'll want the THS 146C instead. Let me know what you think.
#1034
I'm going to be getting a .21 for my buggy some people say that a 3 port is good and some say the 5 port im a rookie still what suggestions do you guys think is the 3 port good for a buggy or shoulsd i get the 5 port HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1035
either will do just fine...if your in a big hurry get the 5port and if you have a bit of time to see what the 3port does im sure that it will be worth the wait...



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