2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
11-14-2007 | 11:24 AM
#436
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
From: SoCal Inland Empire
If I were still going with RB I would get their more reliable square stroke motors like the WS7III not their long stroke motors like the C6.
11-14-2007 | 11:42 AM
#437
If the expectation of the manufacturer is that you'll need need to replace major components of their product within 40 minutes of run-time, THEN BY GAWD INCLUDE THE REPLACEMENT PARTS WITH THE NEW PRODUCT!!!
I do feel that this sort of expectation is highly unrealistic in regards to the average consumer...
I do feel that this sort of expectation is highly unrealistic in regards to the average consumer...
11-14-2007 | 05:47 PM
#438
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
You would be amazed Rabid, Rody at RB reccomends changing the connecting rod every 1 1/4 gallons, at $50 a piece they are a little cheaper then the nova rossi's, But don't count out Go either We reccomend changing the connecting rod after break in or at 3-4 gallons. I also reccomend changing the wrist pin with the rod since its cheap.
G26r I think that the piston and sleeve should fit but i haven't tried it, I do know the sport engine case is not exactly the same, because I tried putting a 5port crank and rear cover on a 3port sport and the rear cover didn't fit.
G26r I think that the piston and sleeve should fit but i haven't tried it, I do know the sport engine case is not exactly the same, because I tried putting a 5port crank and rear cover on a 3port sport and the rear cover didn't fit.
11-14-2007 | 06:13 PM
#439
Swede its hard to say what stock needle settings are on that carb because there was a revision to the LSN. Its best set the idle gap then put the engine on the box and lean the HSN so it clears out on top, and then back it off 1-2 hours. then set the LSN on the box and clear out the engine by revving it. then listen for the engine to come down to idle fairly quickly and cout to 6 and then grab full throttle. you should richen the LSN until it has a slight bog before clearing out after the 6 second count. You will know its rich because you should see some fuel being spit out of the exhaust. After you do that set your idle and you should be close when you get on the track.
11-14-2007 | 07:37 PM
#441
Thank you. It makes the buggy wicked fast. It's been too wet to hit the track and I've only been able to drive it in my leaf infested back yard. It is going to be nasty on the track, no doubt in my mind. I'm heading out there today after work as long as the rain holds off. I'll be posting a report for sure! lol
as I'm still a newb more or less...that's the first I've heard of using o-rings. how do you position them in/on the filter's tube?
as I'm still a newb more or less...that's the first I've heard of using o-rings. how do you position them in/on the filter's tube?
11-15-2007 | 05:28 AM
#443
find a few orings about a mm smaller than the tube, roll the oring onto the tube past the spot where you have the zip tie and place the tube on the carb, then roll the oring back onto the same place you have the zit tie, this will make a nice air tight seal...do the same for the filter side...
11-15-2007 | 01:36 PM
#444
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
From: SoCal Inland Empire
You would be amazed Rabid, Rody at RB reccomends changing the connecting rod every 1 1/4 gallons, at $50 a piece they are a little cheaper then the nova rossi's, But don't count out Go either We reccomend changing the connecting rod after break in or at 3-4 gallons. I also reccomend changing the wrist pin with the rod since its cheap.
11-15-2007 | 05:13 PM
#445
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Swede the new Go engines all feature that carb, but a few batches back the LSN was redesigned on that carb. so It would be hard for me to tell what LSN is in that carb because the carb body is the same. If you try setting the carb on the box I think you will find its not very difficult to get a tune on the engine which would be much closer then stock needle settings.
11-15-2007 | 08:51 PM
#447
i run the .28 in my MBX5T, and so far im very happy with it...yes you may replase the 8mm venturi...i use a 7mm in mine from a nova, but i have the Go venturi kit on the way...the 7mm helped to tame the bottom end and did not hurt the top end any, it should also help with better fuel run times...
11-15-2007 | 09:47 PM
#448
i run the .28 in my MBX5T, and so far im very happy with it...yes you may replase the 8mm venturi...i use a 7mm in mine from a nova, but i have the Go venturi kit on the way...the 7mm helped to tame the bottom end and did not hurt the top end any, it should also help with better fuel run times...
11-15-2007 | 09:57 PM
#449
i have the 21-7 and i broke in the engine using the standard button, and after break in i put in the turbo button, and i guess as far as tuning i never noticed any difference when it comes to ease of tuning...however i did notice a increase in power all across the power band, but i havent had a full race tune on the 21-7 yet, ive only got 3/4 gallon on the engine...
11-15-2007 | 10:39 PM
#450
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 881
From: Lincoln Park-Chicago
Listen to Russ' advice on the conrod change. I lost a 5 port after conrod blew at around 5.5 gallons. It also didn't help that I broke in my first GO engine on the starter box without using a heatgun, therefore placing high stress on the conrod on the 1st gallon due to the crazy pinch. The good news is that I can do 2 conrod changes for about the price of one RB conrod.
Good news is no damage to the newly broken in P/S, crank or case!
No harm no foul IMO.