Go-Tech Engines Thread
#451
Hi everyone, I am a new member to this forum. Just purchased a Go Tech .21 5 port engine this week, and have been browsing the threads on here over the last couple of days. Very interesting reading.
The 5 port is going into my GS XUT Pro Truggy which currently is running the original GS R25MT engine.
I was amazed at the pinch on this new Go tech engine. I have 3 tanks through the engine using the heat cycle break in method (running at around 95deg C). Heating engine with heat gun and loosening off the glow plug every time I start it (I have to otherwise my starter box won't even look at turning it over !!).
I currently have a JP-3 pipe on my truggy which works really well with the original engine, but I gather from what I have read here that this pipe is not really suitable for getting the maximum performance out of the 5 port. What would you Go Tech experts recommend ??. Most of my racing is done on relatively tight, medium length tracks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
The 5 port is going into my GS XUT Pro Truggy which currently is running the original GS R25MT engine.
I was amazed at the pinch on this new Go tech engine. I have 3 tanks through the engine using the heat cycle break in method (running at around 95deg C). Heating engine with heat gun and loosening off the glow plug every time I start it (I have to otherwise my starter box won't even look at turning it over !!).
I currently have a JP-3 pipe on my truggy which works really well with the original engine, but I gather from what I have read here that this pipe is not really suitable for getting the maximum performance out of the 5 port. What would you Go Tech experts recommend ??. Most of my racing is done on relatively tight, medium length tracks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
#453
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
From: SoCal Inland Empire
What a coincidence. I had a used con rod let loose tonight at practice. In all fairness it had 5.5 gallons on it and I then used it to break in a new piston/sleeve. I knew I should've put the new one in but I went one tank too many. Oh well.
Good news is no damage to the newly broken in P/S, crank or case!
No harm no foul IMO.
Good news is no damage to the newly broken in P/S, crank or case!
No harm no foul IMO.
Mine cracked on the main back straight on my track at full throttle. Therefore slamming the cracked con rod right against the crankcase and piston sleeve. Needless to say it's all banged up. But no worries... I got another GO engine I just finished 5 tanks on (this time with heat gun). My losi box with lipo struggles with it lol. 
BTW I also have another conrod ready to go in at 2 gallons, not taking chances this time.
#454
Hi everyone, I am a new member to this forum. Just purchased a Go Tech .21 5 port engine this week, and have been browsing the threads on here over the last couple of days. Very interesting reading.
The 5 port is going into my GS XUT Pro Truggy which currently is running the original GS R25MT engine.
I was amazed at the pinch on this new Go tech engine. I have 3 tanks through the engine using the heat cycle break in method (running at around 95deg C). Heating engine with heat gun and loosening off the glow plug every time I start it (I have to otherwise my starter box won't even look at turning it over !!).
I currently have a JP-3 pipe on my truggy which works really well with the original engine, but I gather from what I have read here that this pipe is not really suitable for getting the maximum performance out of the 5 port. What would you Go Tech experts recommend ??. Most of my racing is done on relatively tight, medium length tracks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
The 5 port is going into my GS XUT Pro Truggy which currently is running the original GS R25MT engine.
I was amazed at the pinch on this new Go tech engine. I have 3 tanks through the engine using the heat cycle break in method (running at around 95deg C). Heating engine with heat gun and loosening off the glow plug every time I start it (I have to otherwise my starter box won't even look at turning it over !!).
I currently have a JP-3 pipe on my truggy which works really well with the original engine, but I gather from what I have read here that this pipe is not really suitable for getting the maximum performance out of the 5 port. What would you Go Tech experts recommend ??. Most of my racing is done on relatively tight, medium length tracks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

#455
Thanks guys. Excuse my ignorance, but I am assuming the 053 and 086 pipes you are refering to are the OFNA 086 etc ?
A lot of people reckon the 2047 pipe is also good. Any further info on this (ie manufacturer etc) would also be appreciated.
I have run an OFNA 063 pipe and header on my truggy and buggy in the past and it sure made a big difference to the bottom end punch. I take your point though Jason, I don't really need to beef up the bottom with the 5 port, but rather enhance the middle and top.
A lot of people reckon the 2047 pipe is also good. Any further info on this (ie manufacturer etc) would also be appreciated.
I have run an OFNA 063 pipe and header on my truggy and buggy in the past and it sure made a big difference to the bottom end punch. I take your point though Jason, I don't really need to beef up the bottom with the 5 port, but rather enhance the middle and top.
#456
Thanks guys. Excuse my ignorance, but I am assuming the 053 and 086 pipes you are refering to are the OFNA 086 etc ?
A lot of people reckon the 2047 pipe is also good. Any further info on this (ie manufacturer etc) would also be appreciated.
I have run an OFNA 063 pipe and header on my truggy and buggy in the past and it sure made a big difference to the bottom end punch. I take your point though Jason, I don't really need to beef up the bottom with the 5 port, but rather enhance the middle and top.
A lot of people reckon the 2047 pipe is also good. Any further info on this (ie manufacturer etc) would also be appreciated.
I have run an OFNA 063 pipe and header on my truggy and buggy in the past and it sure made a big difference to the bottom end punch. I take your point though Jason, I don't really need to beef up the bottom with the 5 port, but rather enhance the middle and top.
#457
The OS pipes and MSR 1005 are great pipes for the 5 ports that i run, i don't see as much runtime out of the Dynamite 053 but it does make very good power on the 5 and 7, and if your not extrmely picky on a certain feel of the motor go with the Dynamite and save a few bucks you wount be disapointed. I like the 2060 on the outdoor tracks that are big and the 2050 and 1005 on small to med, unless the track is loose. even with a soft clutch and top end pipes the 5 ports can be alot to handle you just get used to how it feels and when you do look out, these motors have what a racer is looking for, so many people have been brained washed into thinking that NR,RB Rex,OS are the only motors that can win championships, there are alot of the top drivers that could put this motor in a Nat's a main or even win the damn think, but it's a "budget Motor" please, just like alot of others have said, i wouls put this against and have many times other big money mills, when i see a stock 5 port pulling on a NR,os rb that should tell you something, and longevity is awesome as long or longer than the $$$ motors. If any one one here is looking on getting a GO shoot me a email and i will send you MY breakin method, it's simple and it will work the same on a stock GO as it does on my modded GO's. I'm not saying that the breakijn methods on here are incorrect, but what i have been doing has been working very well, no failers and no broken motors, and alot of fuel ran through them. And for people looking and wondering about runtime, these motors will go 10+, GO offers a carb insert set, the 5 ports will run 10 with a 7mm insert, but they have a 6.5 as well. And you won't see a huge loss in power on the 5 ports, it may feel more like a 7 port on the bottom but it still does what you need it to do. I don't get a chance to get on here often as i like so sorry for the novel, but simply put, these motors are worth every penny. Just get it and enjoy
#459
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 485
From: Orange Park Fl
Today I finally was able to break in my new 5 port turbo. Yes sir I think we may have my new motors. It seems to run almost identical to my 400.00 EB Mods Vspec. It appears to be a very sweet motor. It broke in easy, idles forever and if it can go 6+ gallons it is for sure a sweet bargain.
I used a HN2047 and it really felt good. I did not run a ny laps with it yet, so I am not certain of run time. I was using the heat cycle break in method.
I used a HN2047 and it really felt good. I did not run a ny laps with it yet, so I am not certain of run time. I was using the heat cycle break in method.
#461
Tech Rookie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Hi all,
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy
#462
Hi all,
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy
#463
i have spoke to Dana about the pipes in emails, available soon...i have one maybe two on the way as soon as they come in, so ill let you all know how they work, and what engines they work with best...
Last edited by Jason Halvorson; 11-18-2007 at 08:20 AM.
#464
Glad to hear it works well for you. I just got an 8T earlier this week and am going to be ordering my .28 on Monday!!! I was hoping to get it ordered on Friday but never got around to it. Hopefully I can still receive it later next week, even with the Thanksgiving holiday. I'd love to get it broken in to be able to play with it next weekend! We'll see what happens though...
Last edited by Jason Halvorson; 11-17-2007 at 11:05 PM.
#465
Tech Addict
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 571
Hi all,
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy
I have a Go .28 in an 8T. The motor flat rips, only half a gallon through it and running about 215 degrees. But I keep having a problem with the carb coming loose. The pinch screw is thread locked and is not backing off,but after a few laps the carb will rotate, any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
Guy



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