Well time for an update of what I have discovered with my recent rebuilds and investigations into the Corally edition SP12x:

The ball cups that are used for the VCS micro shock are too long, and cause the rear pod to have too much pressure applied, which in turn make the chassis have quite a noticeable amount of droop where the t-bar is. So i sliced 5MM off one of the ball cups, and it seems perfect now.

Mounting the steering ball cups underneath the steering joints rather than on top make for smoother steering. I'm still not sold on the center point steering at this point in time, as i have noticed that when you have the front wheels pointing one way the inside tyre has a rediculous amount of slop. I'm thinking of getting some associated steering links (but still use the 12x front end)

Filing the plastic clips that hold the king pin on (where the front ride height adjusters are) so all of that sits more free, and has less resistance. they should be able to move smoothly when not attached to anything and just moving the chassis around in the air.

more to come

Just wondering if you tried using regular tie rods yet? I too had to reduce the length of the center shock. I tried mounting the tie rods under the steering block and it did really smooth out the steering.

John

question, the front axles that sit in the plastic retainers,are they meant to be straight or do they have a slight curve .i discovered that both have a slight curve. is this normal?

If you are talking about the part of the axle that goes thru the block, there is a cut out, or relief, in the axle to clear the kingpin...

the shaft that extends from the outer plastic bushing is slightly bent.i was wondering since the inner screw holds the whole axle in place and by rotating it the camber changes or toe in changes.strange that both axles r the same amount of curvature or have i managed to bend them both equally.ive only run the car once with no major crashes.dop these alloy axles bend easily or are they designed for camber adjustment???

You've bent them............

There is a steel version i think.

yeah the steel axles will help,the axle extends further out than the rim which would cause the alloy to bend easy after a collision with a barrier.what front width do u guys run?

On the graphite antenna mast on the sp12x. You will have glitching from your radio mainly because it is graphite. I would put a fiberglass mast in to fix the glitching.

Wes

Any body having issues with the steering knuckles beaking on the SP12x? I just got my car and the knuckle broke and I didn't hit the wall the hard.

Another note what are the alternate front ends you guys are running?

TIA

Rob

the new CRC font end is what i run

works VERY well


the AE one works well too

OR the Corally World Champion front end (basically an AE front end is snazzier packageing)

just dont use CPS and you will have great results

matt

Thanks Matt.

I was looking at the new CRC or the Corally Worlds.

Rob

Hello a little off topic for a change , I am looking for white ball cups for my 12 scale and for my touring car. I have seen them on cars and think they look rather dapper. Let me know if you can direct me in any direction, except hell. Cheers.

Here's some.



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV20&P=7

Hi Romac,

I think it depends on where you want to run your 12th.

The standard 12x front works absolutely mint for me outdoors (very consistent!).

But the AE 12ths seem to have a tad more corner speed then me indoors.

I'm just finding the steering knuckles seem to break alot. They seem to be made out of hard plastic instead of a more durable nylon. They look to be made out of the same creap plastic the Tamiya kits used to be made out of.