Mugen MTX-4
08-18-2007, 06:15 PM
#8836
To adjust the blade sway bar you loosen the set screw and rotate the bar, both sides of the bar, not slide in or out.
The stock mugen clutch uses the super hard spring and drilled out fly weights. Most of the team drivers drill the holes out larger to make the weights even lighter. I didn't know of any of the team that used the yellow shoe on the sedan. That doesn't mean they don't, they just didn't when I was on the team. At that time we used the grey shoe. The stock Mugen MTX4 clutch works pretty darn well. The MSR spring and slightly lighter weights just makes it a bit better. Also, how good your clutch seems does depend on your engine as well. Some engines make better bottom end, so the exact same clutch settings on two different engines will yield a totally different feel. The clutch I ran on the Sirio STI felt like an on/off switch on the IDM engine. The IDM makes much more torque so I had to soften the clutch to make the car drivable. The CRF engine doesn't have a lot of torque so my normal clutch setting would probably feel a bit boggy on that engine. You have to tailor your clutch to the engine.
The stock mugen clutch uses the super hard spring and drilled out fly weights. Most of the team drivers drill the holes out larger to make the weights even lighter. I didn't know of any of the team that used the yellow shoe on the sedan. That doesn't mean they don't, they just didn't when I was on the team. At that time we used the grey shoe. The stock Mugen MTX4 clutch works pretty darn well. The MSR spring and slightly lighter weights just makes it a bit better. Also, how good your clutch seems does depend on your engine as well. Some engines make better bottom end, so the exact same clutch settings on two different engines will yield a totally different feel. The clutch I ran on the Sirio STI felt like an on/off switch on the IDM engine. The IDM makes much more torque so I had to soften the clutch to make the car drivable. The CRF engine doesn't have a lot of torque so my normal clutch setting would probably feel a bit boggy on that engine. You have to tailor your clutch to the engine.
08-18-2007, 06:46 PM
#8837
I dont have a MTX4, but dude, you're arguing a point that is moot. All blade sway bars are adjusted by rotating them. Just like the front blade sway bar, when the bar is - like that, its at it softest, and when its like I that its at it hardest, anything in betweem is adjustable. Its really pretty easy to see.
08-18-2007, 08:44 PM
#8839
This is not going to be easy to explain, but I am going to try. I have to first make you understand how a sway bar works, then it will all end up making sense. A sway bar works by tying the left and right side the of the cars suspension/tires together. It tries to keep them at the same level as each other. Example:
It will be a bit easier if you leave your tires on the car, but it isn't necessary. Take your car and put it on a car stand so the tires are off the table and just hanging down. Disconnect both shocks from the a-arm.(not necessary, but will make it a bit easier). Disconnect the sway bar from either side, but you don't have to do both sides. Grab the right side tire and move it up and down. The left side shouldn't move at all. Now grab the left side tire and move it up and down. The right side shouldn't move at all. Now reconnect the sway bar and rotate it so both bars are flat. Grab the right side tire and move it up and down. The left side should go up and down with the right side. They should go up together and move down together. Now the part that is a bit of a handful. Grab the left side tire and hold it down. While still holding the left tire down, grab the right side tire and try to raise it up. You will be able to do it, but in order to do it, the sway bar will have to bend/flex. Now let go of the tires and stand the sway bar straight up and down. Then repeat holding the left tire down and trying to raise the right tire up. It will be much harder to do this as you have essentially made the sway bar much thicker in the direction it has to bend/flex. When you are driving your car and you go into a turn, the car will sway/lean over. The action is exactly the same as trying to hold one tire down and raise one tire up.... Just like you were doing in your hand a minute ago. It works the same way as the front blade sway bar. You just need some more linkage in the rear since there is a transmission in the way.
I need to send Robbie a bill for still doing tech support in the Mugen thread
It will be a bit easier if you leave your tires on the car, but it isn't necessary. Take your car and put it on a car stand so the tires are off the table and just hanging down. Disconnect both shocks from the a-arm.(not necessary, but will make it a bit easier). Disconnect the sway bar from either side, but you don't have to do both sides. Grab the right side tire and move it up and down. The left side shouldn't move at all. Now grab the left side tire and move it up and down. The right side shouldn't move at all. Now reconnect the sway bar and rotate it so both bars are flat. Grab the right side tire and move it up and down. The left side should go up and down with the right side. They should go up together and move down together. Now the part that is a bit of a handful. Grab the left side tire and hold it down. While still holding the left tire down, grab the right side tire and try to raise it up. You will be able to do it, but in order to do it, the sway bar will have to bend/flex. Now let go of the tires and stand the sway bar straight up and down. Then repeat holding the left tire down and trying to raise the right tire up. It will be much harder to do this as you have essentially made the sway bar much thicker in the direction it has to bend/flex. When you are driving your car and you go into a turn, the car will sway/lean over. The action is exactly the same as trying to hold one tire down and raise one tire up.... Just like you were doing in your hand a minute ago. It works the same way as the front blade sway bar. You just need some more linkage in the rear since there is a transmission in the way.
I need to send Robbie a bill for still doing tech support in the Mugen thread
08-19-2007, 01:10 AM
#8840
How much larger do they drill out the holes? I'd like to give it a try sometime with the yellow and grey clutch shoe setup. I don't see how rotating the blade bars will provide adjustment as the tips that go into the metal piece aren't threaded. Sry for all the questions, but just wondering.
08-19-2007, 07:53 AM
#8842
LOL!
08-19-2007, 08:40 AM
#8843
08-19-2007, 09:09 AM
#8844
Mr. Fisher is just a nice guy and can't help himself 
Thanks for the even more info!
Thanks for the even more info!
08-20-2007, 05:08 AM
#8847
Regarding lightweight clutchbell JP Racing makes one for the MTX4 in aluminium. NEEDS to be used with the red clutch shoe (beware: expensive and doesn't last long).
I use it without a problem but I need to say that red clutch shoe and aluminium clutchbell isn't an all-around clutch config. Yellow shoe and steel clutchbell is the best you can get if want an all around config.
08-20-2007, 05:26 AM
#8848
A lightweight flywheel only will give you headaches and a rough idle. Forget it.
Regarding lightweight clutch bell JP Racing makes one for the MTX4 in aluminium. NEEDS to be used with the red clutch shoe (beware: expensive and doesn't last long).
I use it without a problem but I need to say that red clutch shoe and aluminium clutch bell isn't an all-around clutch con fig. Yellow shoe and steel clutch bell is the best you can get if want an all around con fig.
Regarding lightweight clutch bell JP Racing makes one for the MTX4 in aluminium. NEEDS to be used with the red clutch shoe (beware: expensive and doesn't last long).
I use it without a problem but I need to say that red clutch shoe and aluminium clutch bell isn't an all-around clutch con fig. Yellow shoe and steel clutch bell is the best you can get if want an all around con fig.
I am running an old mtx 3 3 racing light weight flywheel on my STI and it idles beautifully!
Cheers
Joe
08-20-2007, 04:55 PM
#8849
alm bells suck (my 2 cents)
i did run the 3racing light bell but it got wobbly and now i just run stock mugen stuff,it last longer and stays consistent in long mains.
i tried the drill thing with the shoes but i think i like 2 shoes with weights better,why i dont know.
as some would say at the track i mostly run at ( FASTCATS ) my car is so snappy its silly.
i did run the 3racing light bell but it got wobbly and now i just run stock mugen stuff,it last longer and stays consistent in long mains.
i tried the drill thing with the shoes but i think i like 2 shoes with weights better,why i dont know.
as some would say at the track i mostly run at ( FASTCATS ) my car is so snappy its silly.
08-20-2007, 05:03 PM
#8850
alm bells suck (my 2 cents)
i did run the 3racing light bell but it got wobbly and now i just run stock mugen stuff,it last longer and stays consistent in long mains.
i tried the drill thing with the shoes but i think i like 2 shoes with weights better,why i dont know.
as some would say at the track i mostly run at ( FASTCATS ) my car is so snappy its silly.
i did run the 3racing light bell but it got wobbly and now i just run stock mugen stuff,it last longer and stays consistent in long mains.
i tried the drill thing with the shoes but i think i like 2 shoes with weights better,why i dont know.
as some would say at the track i mostly run at ( FASTCATS ) my car is so snappy its silly.
If you have enough traction and grip. Aluminium clutch bell and red shoe is the best way to have incredible hard launches. Just because the shoe grips fiercely to the clutchbell (I would not be clutch bell... it gets bitten really hard
).