Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

The MSR spring works just fine on the sedan.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Thnx Scott and Walley. Is there a big difference between the Super Hard and the factory spring that comes with the MTX4?

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

What setting do you use on the spring when measured from the end on the crank? And do you use the drilled fly weights or the standard. I run the MSR on my 8th scale but have put one on my touring car.

T Emory

Any suggestions on parts for the MTX-4R to lighten the drivetrain and maybe even one place to find all parts?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

When I ran that car I ran the spring about 1.1 -1.2mm below the end of the crank. I ususally ran the flyweights drilled out to 3.5mm.

YBSLOW

iTrader: (9)

My sedan clutch setup is similar...................I drill flyweights to 4mm and run the MSR spring at about .9 mm from end of the crank threads with a .3 gap and minimal endplay.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Scott - Are you using the option rear swar bar for the MTX4? I will install mine in the mean time. I also had bought HPI alum hex hubs, but the inner diameter doesn't clear the axle near the drive pin so I'll bore them out to fit.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I signed a contract with Kyosho in January. WHEN I was using the MTX 4, I used the normal wire sway bars. I got my car MTX4 out of the first batch and at first there was no adjustable blade sway bar for the car. The sway bars were the same for the MTX3 and I already had all of them so I just kept using them. It is easier to make fine adjustments with the wire sway bars. I do use the blade with my K-car, but it came with the car and it is defnitely faster to make changes with a blade type bar.

For the aluminum hex hubs, why don't you just get ones made for the car. Mugen, Kawahara and Kfactory all make aluminum hexes. I am sure there are others as well.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Ahh I gotcha.So to make adjustments with the blade type sway bar I have to loosen the grub screws on top and slide the left or right sway bar outward a bit right? Also, you think I can get the stock mugen clutch setup to have nearly as much snap as using the super hard spring or the msr spring? Right now I am at about 8mm measuring from the tip of the crank to the adjuster nut. The yellow shoe is also being used with stock flywheel weights. I do have the drilled out ones though.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

To adjust the blade sway bar you loosen the set screw and rotate the bar, both sides of the bar, not slide in or out.

The stock mugen clutch uses the super hard spring and drilled out fly weights. Most of the team drivers drill the holes out larger to make the weights even lighter. I didn't know of any of the team that used the yellow shoe on the sedan. That doesn't mean they don't, they just didn't when I was on the team. At that time we used the grey shoe. The stock Mugen MTX4 clutch works pretty darn well. The MSR spring and slightly lighter weights just makes it a bit better. Also, how good your clutch seems does depend on your engine as well. Some engines make better bottom end, so the exact same clutch settings on two different engines will yield a totally different feel. The clutch I ran on the Sirio STI felt like an on/off switch on the IDM engine. The IDM makes much more torque so I had to soften the clutch to make the car drivable. The CRF engine doesn't have a lot of torque so my normal clutch setting would probably feel a bit boggy on that engine. You have to tailor your clutch to the engine.

wallyedmonds

just a note
the mtx3 sway is different than the mtx4 sway,they both can be used but they feel different.
and iv found that doing the clutch like Keisuke works very well,
clutch shoe gray
centrifugal shoe H0766 x 2
spring H0767
clutch bell .4
spring nut .5
with the ninja motor.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

The MTX3 and MTX4 wire sway bars are the same and totally interchangeable. I assume you are talking about the blade sway bars.

Seisick

try mushroom rcmart or nitrohouse,
lots of options for the mtx4, msr and kawahara are the best no doubt

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

I am sure this probably has already been answered but I just can't bring myself to go thru all the pages of this thread. I have been having severe problems with 2nd gear stripping (spur gear, not clutch bell). Anyone have any solutions. Car handles well, but I can't get thru a heat without going thru 1. Is it possible the brace above the clutch bell should be replaced with an aluminum upgrade part because the plastic OEM part is stretching????

Also, the 2nd gear is 53 tooth, 1st gear is 59 tooth. Is this correct, or do I have the wrong gear(s).

wallyedmonds

oh yes i am,blade sway bar

many have talked about this prob and i do run the alm brace but this is what i do coz i did strip the 2nd gear once in my life.
1st go here to set up your 2 speed http://www.nitrokb.com/mtx4/
2nd mesh gears tight
iv never had a prob sens iv done this.
read the whole thing coz scott is very good in writing things down and making you understand good

i suck at writing so its hard for me to explain here. good luck and dont give up.