Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#6661
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Originally Posted by Devon Racer
Im running 27t stock indoors with rubber cs 22/27 tyres using a one way front diff. I also have the Demon 3mm indoor chassis. At the moment my car is fitted with a front toe block with f0 printed on it, I would like to know what inboard toe out this is giving me ? Mr Jolly you might be able to answer that one as I now you run a demon chassis on yours. Can you tell me what block i should run with a one way and why ?
Also when i race away at the carpet thashnals the car is great, when I race at my local club (on carpet) with the same setup my car is pants. Every one at my club says its because our carpet has much more grip so I stiffened the car up, still not right, so I tried cs 27 tyres and again the car was not good. Any thoughts would be helpfull.
Also when i race away at the carpet thashnals the car is great, when I race at my local club (on carpet) with the same setup my car is pants. Every one at my club says its because our carpet has much more grip so I stiffened the car up, still not right, so I tried cs 27 tyres and again the car was not good. Any thoughts would be helpfull.
But
F0 mean you have 0 kickup , the SD used to come with the F1 block (,eans 1 degree Kickup
So No outboard toe out for you ,you have parallell
i have f0.5 with a one-way fitted
you get more steering mid to exit with front inboard toe in ;
I can tell you now the Demon 3mm chassis doesn`t like low grip carpet ,if it`s dirty or having Foams races on it on the same night ,this doesn`t help either (Foam dust/powder left on track)
I have been using Russel williams setup from DMS 2 dayer to the `T` & so far so good (except low grip tracks) & demon chassis
front wheelbase by the way is 1+3 ,this is the same as the std chassis with the 1 mm shaved of front wishbones @back to shorten wheelbase (this works out 5+0
we still have .5mm thickers chassis & cells further forward ,so i don`t get to use full lock atall (80% rates i`m down too) about 18 degrees lock as opposed to 25 ish full lock
HTH
#6662
[QUOTE=MR JOLLY]Well i`m not gary
But
F0 mean you have 0 kickup , the SD used to come with the F1 block (,eans 1 degree Kickup
So No outboard toe out for you ,you have parallell
i have f0.5 with a one-way fitted
you get more steering mid to exit with front inboard toe in ;
I can tell you now the Demon 3mm chassis doesn`t like low grip carpet ,if it`s dirty or having Foams races on it on the same night ,this doesn`t help either (Foam dust/powder left on track)
I have been using Russel williams setup from DMS 2 dayer to the `T` & so far so good (except low grip tracks) & demon chassis
front wheelbase by the way is 1+3 ,this is the same as the std chassis with the 1 mm shaved of front wishbones @back to shorten wheelbase (this works out 5+0
we still have .5mm thickers chassis & cells further forward ,so i don`t get to use full lock atall (80% rates i`m down too) about 18 degrees lock as opposed to 25 ish full lock
Thanks for the help, when I look down on the front of my car it looks like it has a lot of inboard toe out as the wish bone hinge pins are not parallel. what would running inboard tow out do to the handling of my car with a one way. Also what difference would inboard toe in and parallel make to the handling so I can set the car for different tracks.
Thanks for any help you can give
But
F0 mean you have 0 kickup , the SD used to come with the F1 block (,eans 1 degree Kickup
So No outboard toe out for you ,you have parallell
i have f0.5 with a one-way fitted
you get more steering mid to exit with front inboard toe in ;
I can tell you now the Demon 3mm chassis doesn`t like low grip carpet ,if it`s dirty or having Foams races on it on the same night ,this doesn`t help either (Foam dust/powder left on track)
I have been using Russel williams setup from DMS 2 dayer to the `T` & so far so good (except low grip tracks) & demon chassis
front wheelbase by the way is 1+3 ,this is the same as the std chassis with the 1 mm shaved of front wishbones @back to shorten wheelbase (this works out 5+0
we still have .5mm thickers chassis & cells further forward ,so i don`t get to use full lock atall (80% rates i`m down too) about 18 degrees lock as opposed to 25 ish full lock
Thanks for the help, when I look down on the front of my car it looks like it has a lot of inboard toe out as the wish bone hinge pins are not parallel. what would running inboard tow out do to the handling of my car with a one way. Also what difference would inboard toe in and parallel make to the handling so I can set the car for different tracks.
Thanks for any help you can give
#6663
Originally Posted by conrod51
Can anyone advise where is the best place to mount an AMB personal transponder on the Yok BD. The instructions say not to have any carbon fibre or metal between the transponder and the track. How important is this as I know some people who mount their's on the steering servo.
Thanks
Thanks
#6664
Tech Elite
iTrader: (120)
Originally Posted by conrod51
Can anyone advise where is the best place to mount an AMB personal transponder on the Yok BD. The instructions say not to have any carbon fibre or metal between the transponder and the track. How important is this as I know some people who mount their's on the steering servo.
Thanks
Thanks
if you want you can put a carbon-fiber sticker or just use black double side tape
http://www.overrc.com/courses/course...omomasami8.jpg
#6665
Try on top of servo.
#6666
Originally Posted by JasonC
Rumor has it yokmo has releaed an alum spool, when confirmed i will post a pica and part #
#6667
Originally Posted by Wayne1one
Try on top of servo.
I have an SDW butt i have only test it one day (10 acc)
#6668
Its the LCG.
#6669
Tech Adept
Er, thats a diff.
Mounting the AMB PT on the servo is fine, but if you run a KO servo it is not advised. Best to mount it to a piece of lexan and hang it off the side of the servo.
Picture of Masamis car from worlds, he was running a diff in the back. It was a prototype of the BD500A aluminium diff halves available now. Standard kit chassis was used by the whole team at the worlds.
Mounting the AMB PT on the servo is fine, but if you run a KO servo it is not advised. Best to mount it to a piece of lexan and hang it off the side of the servo.
Picture of Masamis car from worlds, he was running a diff in the back. It was a prototype of the BD500A aluminium diff halves available now. Standard kit chassis was used by the whole team at the worlds.
#6670
Tech Adept
Inboard front toe in on the front gives more steering exiting the turn.
#6672
Originally Posted by H.Nilsson
Hallö I have also run SDW arms butt i like org. best
have you tested SD-300F05 and the new springs
i think they are more easy to drive with
have you tested SD-300F05 and the new springs
i think they are more easy to drive with
#6673
my bad
#6674
Tech Rookie
Re mounting Personal Transponders; thanks for the replies and the suggestions. I think I'll probably hang it off the side of the servo which is what I had originally considered. My only concern with this is getting hit in that area by another car and risking damage to the Transponder. These things aren't cheap.
#6675
Tech Apprentice
Mounting PT
Originally Posted by conrod51
Can anyone advise where is the best place to mount an AMB personal transponder on the Yok BD. The instructions say not to have any carbon fibre or metal between the transponder and the track. How important is this as I know some people who mount their's on the steering servo.
Thanks
Thanks
We have made a hole in the bumper for the PT. It is under the body mount brace (like in pic by H.Nilsson a few comments back). The wire is just long enough to reach the receiver.
We have not missed a lap in about 1,5 years when having this setup (about 20 races) and the PT is safe from being hit and also as far in the front as possible in case of finishing side by side with another car.