Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#6691
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
mr. jolly, vortex: thanks for you explanations...
has anybody tried just using the SD-202G (graphite steering) part only...will it have an effect??? my lhs has no stock of the C-hub carrier from the old tc car...
do i have to really use both parts to gain more steering???
has anybody tried just using the SD-202G (graphite steering) part only...will it have an effect??? my lhs has no stock of the C-hub carrier from the old tc car...
do i have to really use both parts to gain more steering???
#6692
yes you have to as you gain steering because of the steering throw you gain.
you can also use hb frontend with sd-202 works fine
you can also use hb frontend with sd-202 works fine
#6693
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: princeton, NJ and wall street, NYC
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
The Ti screw with collar is great to use for the bottom king ping screw.
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.
But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.
~Ming
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.
But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.
~Ming
#6694
Tech Regular
Iv got 2 of the steering plates that the team guys use with HPI suspension. 1 Has bearings and one hasnt been used only had the edges glued. £13 for the one with bearings and 10 for the other.
PM if interested
PM if interested
#6695
Originally Posted by JasonC
is the steering block actuall breaking for is the king pin striping out....
if the upper kingpini is pulling out, try part # sd-414kb ( king pin from the LCG) it has a more threads on it compard to part # sd-414k ( stander kingpin on the BD) you may have to grind off a few threads off
If the lower king pin is pulling out.. there is a newer king pin that used a spacer and a 3mm screw. part # sd-414TA ( i think but im not really postive, i have the part # at home)
if the upper kingpini is pulling out, try part # sd-414kb ( king pin from the LCG) it has a more threads on it compard to part # sd-414k ( stander kingpin on the BD) you may have to grind off a few threads off
If the lower king pin is pulling out.. there is a newer king pin that used a spacer and a 3mm screw. part # sd-414TA ( i think but im not really postive, i have the part # at home)
#6697
will do
#6698
Tech Elite
there is also a screw and collar that is used in the cgm steering rack that is a very good fit and screws deeper into the block, also look at getting the wide front bumper kit, one of those will save you from most breakage on the front end.
#6699
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Dan Hughes ygpm Bro,
#6700
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Dan Hughes, ygpm
#6701
Originally Posted by aoizip
The Ti screw with collar is great to use for the bottom king ping screw.
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.
But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.
~Ming
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.
But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.
~Ming
#6702
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
Its here, its here, its finally here.
My BD has arrived, was purchased from Ebay, so I didnt know what to expect.
Included a 3mm chassis and top deck, and front diff and solid drive pulley, as well as the stock parts.
Everything is in very good condition, I am still going to give it a good tear down and rebuild to my spec. Came with stainless steel screws, I feel these stainless kits are inferior so I am going to replace what I can with my collection of stock Yokomo hardware.
Any set up tips or build tips???
It's BD's time to shine.
My BD has arrived, was purchased from Ebay, so I didnt know what to expect.
Included a 3mm chassis and top deck, and front diff and solid drive pulley, as well as the stock parts.
Everything is in very good condition, I am still going to give it a good tear down and rebuild to my spec. Came with stainless steel screws, I feel these stainless kits are inferior so I am going to replace what I can with my collection of stock Yokomo hardware.
Any set up tips or build tips???
It's BD's time to shine.
#6703
Tech Initiate
HI DOES ANYONE HAVE A GOOD RACE SETUP FOR MR4-TC-BD USING RUBBER ON A SLIPPERY ALPHALT SURFACE THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
#6704
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by Mick333
HI DOES ANYONE HAVE A GOOD RACE SETUP FOR MR4-TC-BD USING RUBBER ON A SLIPPERY ALPHALT SURFACE THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
Front:
0.5 front-rear toe suspension pin mount
0 toe front
2mm shims under both front suspension pin mounts
2mm shim on the front camber link (bulkhead)
front shock mounted on 2nd outermost hole
steering links mounted on the 2nd to the front-most hole
REAR
2 deg rear-rear toe suspension pin mount
no shims under the suspension pin mounts
0.5 deg toe rear hub carriers (placed on the wrong sides for less toe)
2mm shim on the rear camber link (bulkhead)
rear shock mounted on the 2nd outermost hole (BD shock tower, not the BDM one)
2deg camber on all wheels
shock lengh: 62mm
droop: 7f/5r (using Hudy droop blocks)
stock front and rear swaybars
30Wt oil all around (box stock internals)
Paragon FXII compound
Sorex 36R with Speedmind TypeB medium insterts
2 x 4mm holes punched in the wheels
for Power
IB4200WC 6-cell
Novak GTX
Team Express Co27
if and when you do try it, lemme know what you think... i'm still working on the set-up and would appreciate any feedback, comments.
Last edited by VooDooPH; 01-16-2007 at 11:11 PM.
#6705
Tech Initiate
THANKS I WILL GIVE THIS SET UP A GO.