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Old 01-11-2007, 09:23 AM
  #6691  
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mr. jolly, vortex: thanks for you explanations...

has anybody tried just using the SD-202G (graphite steering) part only...will it have an effect??? my lhs has no stock of the C-hub carrier from the old tc car...
do i have to really use both parts to gain more steering???
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:42 AM
  #6692  
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yes you have to as you gain steering because of the steering throw you gain.
you can also use hb frontend with sd-202 works fine
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:01 AM
  #6693  
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The Ti screw with collar is great to use for the bottom king ping screw.
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.

But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.

~Ming
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:51 PM
  #6694  
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Iv got 2 of the steering plates that the team guys use with HPI suspension. 1 Has bearings and one hasnt been used only had the edges glued. £13 for the one with bearings and 10 for the other.

PM if interested
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR4TC-BD-dsc00144.jpg  
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:12 PM
  #6695  
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Originally Posted by JasonC
is the steering block actuall breaking for is the king pin striping out....

if the upper kingpini is pulling out, try part # sd-414kb ( king pin from the LCG) it has a more threads on it compard to part # sd-414k ( stander kingpin on the BD) you may have to grind off a few threads off

If the lower king pin is pulling out.. there is a newer king pin that used a spacer and a 3mm screw. part # sd-414TA ( i think but im not really postive, i have the part # at home)
Thanks for the help, I think its a little bit of both the steering block is breaking at the lower king pin location. I guess I will have to shell out the cash for the aluminum steering blocks.
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:18 PM
  #6696  
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i would try the diffrent king pin first
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Old 01-11-2007, 04:15 PM
  #6697  
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will do
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Old 01-11-2007, 04:28 PM
  #6698  
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there is also a screw and collar that is used in the cgm steering rack that is a very good fit and screws deeper into the block, also look at getting the wide front bumper kit, one of those will save you from most breakage on the front end.
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:45 PM
  #6699  
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Dan Hughes ygpm Bro,
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:05 AM
  #6700  
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Dan Hughes, ygpm
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:06 AM
  #6701  
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Originally Posted by aoizip
The Ti screw with collar is great to use for the bottom king ping screw.
as the thread is finer and a bit longer.

But if u switch to the alum. knockle, you won't have any problem with loose king ping screw.

~Ming
Thanks for the advise, I got through the club race on Saturday with no breaks!
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:48 PM
  #6702  
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Its here, its here, its finally here.

My BD has arrived, was purchased from Ebay, so I didnt know what to expect.
Included a 3mm chassis and top deck, and front diff and solid drive pulley, as well as the stock parts.

Everything is in very good condition, I am still going to give it a good tear down and rebuild to my spec. Came with stainless steel screws, I feel these stainless kits are inferior so I am going to replace what I can with my collection of stock Yokomo hardware.

Any set up tips or build tips???

It's BD's time to shine.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:39 PM
  #6703  
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HI DOES ANYONE HAVE A GOOD RACE SETUP FOR MR4-TC-BD USING RUBBER ON A SLIPPERY ALPHALT SURFACE THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:00 PM
  #6704  
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Originally Posted by Mick333
HI DOES ANYONE HAVE A GOOD RACE SETUP FOR MR4-TC-BD USING RUBBER ON A SLIPPERY ALPHALT SURFACE THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
you could try mine. its probably not the best but it works for me so far...

Front:
0.5 front-rear toe suspension pin mount
0 toe front
2mm shims under both front suspension pin mounts
2mm shim on the front camber link (bulkhead)
front shock mounted on 2nd outermost hole
steering links mounted on the 2nd to the front-most hole

REAR
2 deg rear-rear toe suspension pin mount
no shims under the suspension pin mounts
0.5 deg toe rear hub carriers (placed on the wrong sides for less toe)
2mm shim on the rear camber link (bulkhead)
rear shock mounted on the 2nd outermost hole (BD shock tower, not the BDM one)

2deg camber on all wheels
shock lengh: 62mm
droop: 7f/5r (using Hudy droop blocks)
stock front and rear swaybars
30Wt oil all around (box stock internals)
Paragon FXII compound
Sorex 36R with Speedmind TypeB medium insterts
2 x 4mm holes punched in the wheels

for Power
IB4200WC 6-cell
Novak GTX
Team Express Co27

if and when you do try it, lemme know what you think... i'm still working on the set-up and would appreciate any feedback, comments.

Last edited by VooDooPH; 01-16-2007 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:47 PM
  #6705  
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THANKS I WILL GIVE THIS SET UP A GO.
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