Ensure the steering arm stop is installed. It goes on top of the driveshaft just behind the front differential case. That combined with the stop on the front hubs work in tandem to help prevent the bones from ejecting when everything flexes from brushing the boards and other cars.

Box stock.... What comes in the box is usable am I right? Take the rubber tube that is on the motor shaft and cut it to be o rings. Put the "o rings" in the axle cup on the diff side so the axle is pushed into the stub axle side.

Do you use the anti-roll-bar kit from Yeah YR-TATT-034 in the SRX on carpet or asphalt?

Does somebody use the Yeah Ring carbon droop plates on the TT-02 SRX? How would they been mounted?

https://www.yeahracing.com/yeah-raci...t-033-00106030

Yes that's a link to the product. But mounted on a TT02 it minimizes the ground clearance...

And there is a photo showing how it's supposed to be installed. Wasn't that what you wanted?

Yes and no! The photo shows the mounting in the rear which is no problem because the three screws are "free".
In the front there is the bumper holder, and you don't want to mount the droop plate under it because it harms
the ground clearance.

I have used (still am) those but as much as a pain it is I’d rather put spacers in the shock / damper bodies.

https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost.php?p=15847632&postcount=2993

Thanks "simple"! This what I thought, that the bumper holder has to be cutted and is not really stable anymore afterwards...

Are there any setups available for the SRX for carpet or asphalt?

On petitrc.com is nothing...

I run with a TT02 SRX will all the Tamiya available options (SSBB+ shocks with PSM related carbon shock towers, #54651 (alu upper arm mount), #54965 (alu steering set long), #54977 (alu servo mount), as well as all the lightweight bits related to the transmission), and I also use the YR alu adjustable motor mount (TT02-013BU), and titanium screws.

I run on a large flowing track, low to mid-low grip, with a HW Xerun V3.1 (boost timing to 20 - 25° just to avoid sleeping in the straight) and a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5t (endbell timing to 31°) ; this should probably give me the same speed as a more modern 21.5t motor, but still lacking some power. IP 8400 LiPo long stick (certainly too heavy but I manage to run almost 20min like so). FDR around 4 to 4.5 and the use of a 40x40mm fan on the motor. Tyres are Hudy 36 (#803062), body is a Zoo Racing Gorilla Max (just because I like the style of this, but I've tried with an old PF Mazda Speed 6 and it worked even better).

Setup wise, here is what I managed to achieve after several testings :
Front
- droop : 5.4mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 3.1
- Shock oil : 500cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the top of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 1°
- Roll center : 1mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 1°
- Ackerman : 1mm shim
- 1mm each side between wheelhubs and tyres
- Ride height : 5.4mm
- Spool

Rear
- droop : 4.6mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 2.9
- Shock oil : 425cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 2°
- Roll center : 2,5mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 2.5° (flat, no skid angle)
- Ride height : 5.7mm
- Gear diff filled with 5k cst


For indoor, I've only run with a basic setup but the car was very good as well. It depends of course of the track grip level (I would say mine was high-mid to low-high). I've run with RCK28 tires and Ride 32 tires (same as for fronties at the ETS). Shock oil was 425cst everywhere and I used lower rate springs as well (to allow the car roll more, i.e. : Tamiya SSBB springs green F/R or red F / green R depending on the grip level at the front). Lower roll center as well at the rear (meaning less shim below the camber link on the "bulkhead" side). If I remember well, the front shocks were a bit more angled (i.e. : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay). Of course, the main impact is tyres.

Hope this helps !
Regards
Jeremy

Tested again the above setup on the same track but in much colder conditions (air / track temp wise) and I can confirm this works pretty well indeed !

Its only a bumper mount - stability should be inconsequential assuming you mount the body posts from the shock tower as in the instructions.

Thank you Jeremy!