Those are pretty good numbers.

R1 has a new high torque rotor for the v21's that's really good. Two of mine in the pics below.

My Motiv 21.5 rotor after a year of racing both sedan and 12th scale. Not much drop off from when new. Never overheating and routine maintenance kept it running well all this time.

That's pretty strong after a year. Heat will kill a rotor. What temp do you keep it under?

I shoot for under 160 when running USGT as we run 8min main. For regular TC and 5min races its 150 and under. In 12th scale I stopped monitoring temps as they never get anywhere close to my sedan temps.

That's a good temp.

I remember when getting back into racing. The track owner was telling me that the best motor out was the Reedy S+ and to gear and time it to run no more than 150*. Well, when all was said and done, that motor had no punch left and I was still getting dusted in the straits. Come to find out, that motor was not that great. I would have made it faster, but as I mentioned, there was not punch left on it, so coming off jumps and out of turns wasn't the best.

I have a question about my 21.5 helix rs v1. Still trying to get as much as I can out of it on a small tight clay track. The question is am I losing torque by increasing timing? I bumped the timing up to increase rpm’s but I can tell the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight even with the smallest pinion that I can fit (26/72). I guess I could put a bigger spur on but my gearing already seems out of line with what most folks are running. So will decreasing timing get the motor to max RPM faster, not just as a result of the max being lower but because the motor has more torque? Right now my timing on the motor analyzer is 49 and it’s coming off after 5 minutes around 140.

I am not sure about the RS v1, but the 17.5 was not a very torquey motor. Have you tried installing a stronger rotor?

No, I don’t really want to put more money into that motor. Just trying to figure out what I can do just by tuning to get the most pop out of it.

I was happy with my helix when I first got it, because it was the first tuned motor I had used and was much better than something out of the box. I’m pretty disappointed in it now, though. Other motors like the R1 seem to be doing better on small tight clay tracks. I’ve tried to get some more punch out of it by reducing the gearing but it doesn’t work as well for short run-ups to jumps as keeping a tall gear with a torquier motor. That’s just my experience anyway. I agree don’t throw much more money at it, just go a different direction with your money next time. Use this testing data to your advantage. I’m sure the helix is awesome for other scenarios but a small tight clay track you probably want the torque, not necessarily a bunch of rpm.

Yeah, that’s definitely the direction I’ll go next time but for now, can I get more torque by dialing the timing back? Or is torque only a function of the rotor and I’ll just be losing RPMs by decreasing timing? I guess even if I lost revs (that I’m not really using anyway) but I decreased the amount of energy I’m pulling from the battery I might get a bit more punch from having a less-taxed battery?

When does one choose an RPM rotor vs a torque rotor? Specifically for offroad? I could see that RPM rotors would be good for light weight vehicles like touring cars and 1/12 scale or if you're running a class with fix gearing. My thought process is that a torque rotor could be geared lower FDR and thus make up any RPM losses with actual vehicle speed.

I found that high RPM motors are best for wide open tracks where you are full throttle more. A torque motor is good for when you tracks where you are on and off the throttle a lot. You can gear a torque motor for wide open tracks, but I have experienced them getting hotter when wide open.

Gearing down will help get more torque. It's a think where you have to calculate how many RPMs you lose tuning down to how many RPMs you gain when gearing up. I just thought of another video I should make. LOL....

Do these also test 1/8 motors or strictly 1/10?

I’ll be in the market for a new rpm based motor. Any recommendations? I saw the pheonix motors have some very specific smooth rpm based motors but I dont want to buy a motor only to have to throw out the rotor and replace it. If they sold stators, I would consider “building” it myself.

I’m moving away from pin tired and noticing the smoother the power delivery, the better in my case.