Motor Testing and Comparisons
#16
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I was originally going to follow up in the product comparison thread from last year Product Comparison
I finally made it to a track in 2024, PDX RC Underground. I had replaced all my banded Trinity Slot Machine Certified motors with Fantom Helix RS Works. My son was still running HW G4s that I rebuilt giving the “works” treatment with ceramic bearings and titanium screws and timing set with load master. The Fantom Helix RS Works noticeably pulled on the HW G4 on back straightaway. Both 17.5T motors in B6.4s geared the same.
I finally made it to a track in 2024, PDX RC Underground. I had replaced all my banded Trinity Slot Machine Certified motors with Fantom Helix RS Works. My son was still running HW G4s that I rebuilt giving the “works” treatment with ceramic bearings and titanium screws and timing set with load master. The Fantom Helix RS Works noticeably pulled on the HW G4 on back straightaway. Both 17.5T motors in B6.4s geared the same.
#17
I was originally going to follow up in the product comparison thread from last year Product Comparison
I finally made it to a track in 2024, PDX RC Underground. I had replaced all my banded Trinity Slot Machine Certified motors with Fantom Helix RS Works. My son was still running HW G4s that I rebuilt giving the “works” treatment with ceramic bearings and titanium screws and timing set with load master. The Fantom Helix RS Works noticeably pulled on the HW G4 on back straightaway. Both 17.5T motors in B6.4s geared the same.
I finally made it to a track in 2024, PDX RC Underground. I had replaced all my banded Trinity Slot Machine Certified motors with Fantom Helix RS Works. My son was still running HW G4s that I rebuilt giving the “works” treatment with ceramic bearings and titanium screws and timing set with load master. The Fantom Helix RS Works noticeably pulled on the HW G4 on back straightaway. Both 17.5T motors in B6.4s geared the same.
I can see that. In my tests, I found the Helix to be quite faster than the HW G4. However, the HW G4 showed to have more torque. But, after proper gearing, I can see the Helix having the overall advantage. Under a load, the Helix was 1400 RPM's faster with less than a 1 amp more of a current draw.
#18
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Built a couple new vehicles. So decide to try out R1 Wurks V21-S Spec. My progression was Slot Machines, HW G4s, Fantom Helix RS Works, and finally R1 Wurks V21-S Spec.
Observations. I purchased 2 x 17.5T and 1 13.5T hand picked stator and aligned sensors motors. All the motors came with high timing +47. The end bell timing is off from the actual timing by 5-7 degrees across each motor. The epoxy on the stator is not the cleanest application. The overall design is nice but the HW and Fantom finish was noticeably nicer. The solder tabs leave a lot to be desired. For one, there’s no way without a load master could I have tested the motor because the middle (B) tab is so close to the stator housing. The tabs are also extremely close. In fact so close, the torque from the motor shifted the 13.5T and caused overload in the load master because the center arced. I imagine soldering having to be very proficient.
Upgrades. R1Wurks sells 10x ceramic motor bearings and titanium nitride coated screws set. I had breakage problems with Fantom Ti screws. The R1 screws were consistently strong and add really nice bling factor which is in contrast to the rather industrial finish of the motor. The ceramic bearings have no seals. Jury is out on these because you can’t oil the sensor side without disassembling the motor. On one hand this protects the bearings. I’m also running mid motor on carpet, so light dirty exposure. However, I’m not sure there is more performance than the Fantom ceramic bearings or Boca ceramics which would have less maintenance. The bearings do look nice for a bearing with a darker 10x ceramic coating on the steel races.
Bench Performance. I’m not going to go into depth here, focus more on observations. The motors seem to want more timing than HW G4 and Fantom Helix RS. Those motors and especially the tuned Helix Works were timed in the high 30s. In addition, they had low amp draw at 3-4 amps. The R1 Works V21-S definitely wanted more advanced timing to get similar KV. The amp draw was higher around 6 amps to get similar KV. This seems more like Slot Machines wanting more timing and drawing more amps than the last wave of motors. Based on the other thread for dyno results I set the timing between 42-45 for peak efficiency. The rotors also seemed very strong, but I don’t have a device to measure but would assume these are more torque based.
Observations. I purchased 2 x 17.5T and 1 13.5T hand picked stator and aligned sensors motors. All the motors came with high timing +47. The end bell timing is off from the actual timing by 5-7 degrees across each motor. The epoxy on the stator is not the cleanest application. The overall design is nice but the HW and Fantom finish was noticeably nicer. The solder tabs leave a lot to be desired. For one, there’s no way without a load master could I have tested the motor because the middle (B) tab is so close to the stator housing. The tabs are also extremely close. In fact so close, the torque from the motor shifted the 13.5T and caused overload in the load master because the center arced. I imagine soldering having to be very proficient.
Upgrades. R1Wurks sells 10x ceramic motor bearings and titanium nitride coated screws set. I had breakage problems with Fantom Ti screws. The R1 screws were consistently strong and add really nice bling factor which is in contrast to the rather industrial finish of the motor. The ceramic bearings have no seals. Jury is out on these because you can’t oil the sensor side without disassembling the motor. On one hand this protects the bearings. I’m also running mid motor on carpet, so light dirty exposure. However, I’m not sure there is more performance than the Fantom ceramic bearings or Boca ceramics which would have less maintenance. The bearings do look nice for a bearing with a darker 10x ceramic coating on the steel races.
Bench Performance. I’m not going to go into depth here, focus more on observations. The motors seem to want more timing than HW G4 and Fantom Helix RS. Those motors and especially the tuned Helix Works were timed in the high 30s. In addition, they had low amp draw at 3-4 amps. The R1 Works V21-S definitely wanted more advanced timing to get similar KV. The amp draw was higher around 6 amps to get similar KV. This seems more like Slot Machines wanting more timing and drawing more amps than the last wave of motors. Based on the other thread for dyno results I set the timing between 42-45 for peak efficiency. The rotors also seemed very strong, but I don’t have a device to measure but would assume these are more torque based.
#19
The R1 Works V21-S definitely wanted more advanced timing to get similar KV. The amp draw was higher around 6 amps to get similar KV. This seems more like Slot Machines wanting more timing and drawing more amps than the last wave of motors. Based on the other thread for dyno results I set the timing between 42-45 for peak efficiency. The rotors also seemed very strong, but I don’t have a device to measure but would assume these are more torque based.
#20
Built a couple new vehicles. So decide to try out R1 Wurks V21-S Spec. My progression was Slot Machines, HW G4s, Fantom Helix RS Works, and finally R1 Wurks V21-S Spec.
Observations. I purchased 2 x 17.5T and 1 13.5T hand picked stator and aligned sensors motors. All the motors came with high timing +47. The end bell timing is off from the actual timing by 5-7 degrees across each motor. The epoxy on the stator is not the cleanest application. The overall design is nice but the HW and Fantom finish was noticeably nicer. The solder tabs leave a lot to be desired. For one, there’s no way without a load master could I have tested the motor because the middle (B) tab is so close to the stator housing. The tabs are also extremely close. In fact so close, the torque from the motor shifted the 13.5T and caused overload in the load master because the center arced. I imagine soldering having to be very proficient.
Upgrades. R1Wurks sells 10x ceramic motor bearings and titanium nitride coated screws set. I had breakage problems with Fantom Ti screws. The R1 screws were consistently strong and add really nice bling factor which is in contrast to the rather industrial finish of the motor. The ceramic bearings have no seals. Jury is out on these because you can’t oil the sensor side without disassembling the motor. On one hand this protects the bearings. I’m also running mid motor on carpet, so light dirty exposure. However, I’m not sure there is more performance than the Fantom ceramic bearings or Boca ceramics which would have less maintenance. The bearings do look nice for a bearing with a darker 10x ceramic coating on the steel races.
Bench Performance. I’m not going to go into depth here, focus more on observations. The motors seem to want more timing than HW G4 and Fantom Helix RS. Those motors and especially the tuned Helix Works were timed in the high 30s. In addition, they had low amp draw at 3-4 amps. The R1 Works V21-S definitely wanted more advanced timing to get similar KV. The amp draw was higher around 6 amps to get similar KV. This seems more like Slot Machines wanting more timing and drawing more amps than the last wave of motors. Based on the other thread for dyno results I set the timing between 42-45 for peak efficiency. The rotors also seemed very strong, but I don’t have a device to measure but would assume these are more torque based.
Observations. I purchased 2 x 17.5T and 1 13.5T hand picked stator and aligned sensors motors. All the motors came with high timing +47. The end bell timing is off from the actual timing by 5-7 degrees across each motor. The epoxy on the stator is not the cleanest application. The overall design is nice but the HW and Fantom finish was noticeably nicer. The solder tabs leave a lot to be desired. For one, there’s no way without a load master could I have tested the motor because the middle (B) tab is so close to the stator housing. The tabs are also extremely close. In fact so close, the torque from the motor shifted the 13.5T and caused overload in the load master because the center arced. I imagine soldering having to be very proficient.
Upgrades. R1Wurks sells 10x ceramic motor bearings and titanium nitride coated screws set. I had breakage problems with Fantom Ti screws. The R1 screws were consistently strong and add really nice bling factor which is in contrast to the rather industrial finish of the motor. The ceramic bearings have no seals. Jury is out on these because you can’t oil the sensor side without disassembling the motor. On one hand this protects the bearings. I’m also running mid motor on carpet, so light dirty exposure. However, I’m not sure there is more performance than the Fantom ceramic bearings or Boca ceramics which would have less maintenance. The bearings do look nice for a bearing with a darker 10x ceramic coating on the steel races.
Bench Performance. I’m not going to go into depth here, focus more on observations. The motors seem to want more timing than HW G4 and Fantom Helix RS. Those motors and especially the tuned Helix Works were timed in the high 30s. In addition, they had low amp draw at 3-4 amps. The R1 Works V21-S definitely wanted more advanced timing to get similar KV. The amp draw was higher around 6 amps to get similar KV. This seems more like Slot Machines wanting more timing and drawing more amps than the last wave of motors. Based on the other thread for dyno results I set the timing between 42-45 for peak efficiency. The rotors also seemed very strong, but I don’t have a device to measure but would assume these are more torque based.
#22
Did they send out a new stator? I actually asked them if they could just replace an insulator ring an their response was no. That design is not the best. I used some golf shaft epoxy I had laying around to epoxy mine back together. Don't get we wrong, R1 has some great spec motors, there are some areas that could use an update though.
#24
I almost bought an R1 motor last summer at Hoosier and was told something like 50% of them fail out of the box and R1 has no issues replacing them, you still have to wait. And as I wanted something newer than my 2 year old garbage stock motors that likely wouldn't solve my problem that day. So I passed, and it sounds like that isnt really out of line.
#25
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 559
From: PNW
Did they send out a new stator? I actually asked them if they could just replace an insulator ring an their response was no. That design is not the best. I used some golf shaft epoxy I had laying around to epoxy mine back together. Don't get we wrong, R1 has some great spec motors, there are some areas that could use an update though.
#26
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 559
From: PNW
I almost bought an R1 motor last summer at Hoosier and was told something like 50% of them fail out of the box and R1 has no issues replacing them, you still have to wait. And as I wanted something newer than my 2 year old garbage stock motors that likely wouldn't solve my problem that day. So I passed, and it sounds like that isnt really out of line.
I also decided against the fancy no seal R1 Wurks 10x Ceramic bearings and went back to my trusty Boca Bearing ABEC 7 stainless ceramic from a fishing reel bulk pack. They come dry and end up being $10 ea and are rated for 103k RPM.
#28
I would like to clarify my experience with my R1. My motor was used for testing purposes and was soldered onto multiple times before the insulator ring started coming apart. Personally, I have not had issues with new R1 motors. There was an issue a couple of years ago, but I'm pretty sure that was resolved.
All my other R1 motors work fine, and they were bought new.
All my other R1 motors work fine, and they were bought new.
#29
I think I have 5 r1 motors. Voltas in 17.5 and 21.5 and v21s in 17.5 and 25.5. Only one had an issue where a Volta sensor board failed fairly quickly. Maybe around 10 outings but none of my others have needed one yet. I didnt thoroughly inspect each one to check the epoxy or other parts, but everything runs well.



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