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Old 12-21-2025 | 04:09 PM
  #61  
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I came up with a issue on my Tunealyser. It would not test a motor. It would run the motor in the non test mode but the kv and rpm numbers were way off. I targeted the sensor cable but two others did the same thing. Changed to other motors, same result. I opened the case hoping for a broken connection, everything looks fine.
Any ideas? I ordered a new one. My current one was a very early one.
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Old 12-21-2025 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
I came up with a issue on my Tunealyser. It would not test a motor. It would run the motor in the non test mode but the kv and rpm numbers were way off. I targeted the sensor cable but two others did the same thing. Changed to other motors, same result. I opened the case hoping for a broken connection, everything looks fine.
Any ideas? I ordered a new one. My current one was a very early one.
The inputs from the sensors are tied to pullups internally, which means you should get a 3.2-3.3V reading on them from the Tunalyzer. Check that you get 3.2-3.3V on each sensor wire from the Tunalyzer, not plugged into a motor. There should be the 3 sensors, a VIN (+5V), gnd, and a temp sensor. You need to check the hall sensor inputs.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 02:43 AM
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LRP had motors that did not have an internal pull up and needed a special cable.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
LRP had motors that did not have an internal pull up and needed a special cable.
Are you sure about that? I thought the special cable was to make regular motors work with the LRP ESC.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian
The inputs from the sensors are tied to pullups internally, which means you should get a 3.2-3.3V reading on them from the Tunalyzer. Check that you get 3.2-3.3V on each sensor wire from the Tunalyzer, not plugged into a motor. There should be the 3 sensors, a VIN (+5V), gnd, and a temp sensor. You need to check the hall sensor inputs.
Thanks. I can check that, but if that is the issue, I don't see that it could be repaired easily. It would be from a component failure on one of the two circuit boards. Not something I would be able to do.

Last edited by old_dude; 12-22-2025 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 06:27 AM
  #66  
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You are right, LRP Sensor Conversion Cable 100mm Flow X 500902
So that still means there are motors out there w/o a pull up resistor.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 01:06 PM
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Can't remember seeing a motor with any pullup resistors, but I have seen some (generally much older motors) that had hall effect sensors that only worked with 5V.
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Old 12-22-2025 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PDR
Can't remember seeing a motor with any pullup resistors, but I have seen some (generally much older motors) that had hall effect sensors that only worked with 5V.
Roar specifies 5V input for the sensor board, at least in the rule book. But the sensors on the boards can be either push pull or open collector, so the analyzers use pullups on the GPIO pins just incase they are open collectors on the sensor boards. Ultimately though, this means you should get a high 3.3V from the Tunalyzer on the sensor cables when not connected to a motor.

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Old 01-15-2026 | 01:56 PM
  #69  
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what happens when you hook up a bad/ cook motor to the tunalyzer?
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Old 01-15-2026 | 04:12 PM
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I never tried it, but I do know it will not run and show and "ERROR" sign if any of the phase leads are touching or shorted to the can.
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