You may want to consider a servo saver.

I know, in building my TT-02, I'll be giving the servo saver find in the Traxxas 4Tec 3.0 a try. It's adjustable, similar to how a slipper is adjusted...you can make it as "loose" as you want, of completely tighten it (essentiality, turning it into a servo horn). If anyone else is interested in trying it, I don't have the Traxxas part number (I removed it from one of my two 4Tec 3.0s), but a quick search should pull it up

I know what you're referring to. But, I found only 4-Tec 2.0 the servo saver didn't help much to save the stock servo. When I replaced it the stock servo with a cheap metal gear servo it worked well. If it will fit on a TT02 with a good servo it might work well. I've never tired it in any other car.

If it doesn't work (because of it being mostly plastic), there are aluminum versions from 3rd-party sources, such as Integy, RPM, and Hot Racing (NOT that I'd ever recommend anything from the first two). The HR part is TRF48SH25.

Might put a Kimbrough on the rally car. Haven't found a good servo saver otherwise and tired of the steering not centering with a servo saver.

Solid on the speed run car without question.

When you hit things going 60+ a servo saver isn't going to save anything 🤣

Kimbroughs have always done well for me.

Yes, it will. However, you might have to look real hard to find the "saved part". 🤙🏽

That's what I hear about them. Gonna give em a try at some point.

Ain't that the truth 😆

I talked to Shawn a bit about this class, as I am interested in trying to push for a similar class in my area. The idea behind the hop-ups is that it gives people room to grow with their car. As we know, these are not the best handling kits right out of the box, so the drivers will get to slowly improve the performance as they grow in their skills and can afford to. The emphasis of this class is fun. I know everyone has all of these engrained, sometimes sour, feelings about spec classes and fairness and all that, but the intention is to have a fun class that is affordable for beginners and allow them to grow into the class at their own pace. If a seasoned racer wants to drop a bunch of cash on all the top-of-the-line parts just to dominate in this class, I think that just reflects a bit poorly on them. I don't think it's worthwhile to limit a newcomers potential for gradual growth, just to level the playing field w/old pros. There are also some ideas in place to handicap such a driver at the race director's discretion. As they say, don't allow perfect to get in the way of just good enough.

I think a TT02 Spec class is a fantastic idea. I personally would allow for any Tamiya TT02 hop up. (TCS style) Reason being, none of them are a huge game changer. Eventually overtime all cars would end up catching up with same hop ups. Eg if the fast drivers are running the Type S arms, eventually the rest will catch up.

I would however disallow non Tamiya hops ups, just to keep things more aligned. Again none of them would give a huge advantage, with the exception of the Yeah racing motor mount, which gives greater gear options.

In San Diego, The Lap Factory and RC Racers run GT Spec with TCS rules including the Reedy 21.5 fixed timing motor and 5.74 FDR (RC Racers i think allows 5.2FDR). Spec tire is USGT Gravity's.

Its a fun class and good for beginners after they graduate from rookie. I think its a perfect class to get them ready for USGT.

My local club runs the TT-01 / TT-02 as a spec TTGT class.

TTGT - Tamyia GT
The focus of this class is to provide a fun and cost friendly option for new and established racers to compete. FUN is the key here! If you feel the need to spend a lot of money to race, then this class is not for you. Note: Steel Drive shaft conversion will be permitted on the TT02 chassis only.

CHASSIS: stock TT01 / TT01E or base TT02 ( B/D/T/S/R/RR variants NOT permitted)
ESC: "Box stock" Tamyia ESC as delivered in the OEM box
TIRES: Gravity Racing USGT spec tires on spoked rims ( using the kit wheels with USGT tires is permitted ) only the foam insets included with the USGT tires can be used, double stuffing or alternate foam is not permitted.
SERVO: no restrictions on servo; any servo saver allowed BODY: see list of approved bodies. Nothing else allowed.
WINGS: Molded plastic (no lexan wings) and only what came in the kit - NO non-OEM wings may be added.
MOTOR: Tamyia brushed Silver can 540 Torque Tuned motor only (54358)
BATTERY: 8.40 volt, Lipo 2 cell, 8000 MAh maximum. Full-size stick or brick batteries only; no 8.6 volt-capable batteries – no shorty packs-no soft cell packs.
SHOCKS AND SPRINGS: Must be Tamiya friction dampers and chrome springs that come in the kit (TT01/TT02). (no oil dampers allowed)
DIFFERENTIAL GREASE: Open; any lube or grease may be used provided the differentials are not locked, no spools, no glue-welded diffs - (must function as an open differential)
MINIMUM WEIGHT: 1450 g
ONLY Allowed Modifications
* Hex steel screws may be used in place of the OEM Tamyia screws * Nylon bushings maybe replaced with ball bearings
GEARS: Tamiya kit spur gear only; pinion can be any manufacturer. TT01 must use (48p/0.6
module) 19t pinion with kit Tamiya 61 spur =8.35:1 FDR; TT02 must use (48p/0.6 module)
22t pinion with kit Tamiya 70t spur = 8.27:1 (this is the closest matching FDR between
chassis)
* Any Battery connector is allowed
* Chassis ribs on TT01 models may be removed to allow a standard rectangular Lipo batteries to be used in TT01 chassis
*please note: modifying the tub in this manner may exclude the car from running this spec in events hosted by other clubs
*Shims permitted to adjust for slop in suspension or steering but not allowed to change the
geometry of the car.
Some kits can be built with a wider configuration or adjustable ride height. If it is in the
manual, it is fine but must match the body. Example, no wide configuration if it pushes outside the body.
* Tire sidewalls and tread may be glued

This thinking ruins spec classes, set guidelines and stick to them. Allowing hop ups and gearing changes will just spread the cars out and make the racing boring. The rules listed above by SteveM are the same as my club and all the modifications that should be allowed. Let's not destroy a good entry level class, emphasis should be on getting better as a driver instead of just building a better car.

Finally finished up my rally body for the rally/drift TT02. Waiting on another set of the same wheels to come in to use for the tarmac setup so I've got matching wheels. 13.5t no-name brushless finally shipped. It's got adjustable timing at least lol.

It's hard to see the flaws when it looks so good

Came out better than expected

Dirt setup

Tarmac setup

I do agree with this. I don't think it could be considered entry level with loads of hop-ups allowed. This kind of takes away from someone being able to jump in and be competitive because everyone is using the same entry level chassis.

I agree partially with the hop ups. While it can be argued that aside from a few hop ups, they don't add much of an advantage.

The flip side is that those more experienced can use those hop ups to thier full advantage while others may struggle to keep up.

I think it should be stock for stock. Minimal hopups for an entry level class.

Then make a modified class for those who want to move up and upgrade.