Thank you.

Thank you guys. Just placed my order. WRX STI TT02, bearings, Tamiya adjustable arms, Yeah racing rear oil diff and shocks. Should be a fun budget build. Will order aluminum steering set soon not sure which one yet and rear hubs 2 toe in.

Yesterday I decided to shoot a video of my TA05 hitting 60 mph with assistance of my son 😉

Nice!
I'll have one soon as well. Have some 48p gears on order to go faster on 2s, if running on 3s doesnt kill it haha.

I was going through the chassis and found one of the rear drive cups rounded off in the gear in the diff. Popped another open diff in from my rally TT02. I tossed in the WR02 open metal gear diff in the rally car for now.

I'll have my adjustable upper arms today and the YR adjustable rear toe plate tomorrow.

Update: The RcAidong steering set helps quite a bit, but still pulling left on acceleration. No random turns anymore though, so that's a plus. Going to work on some turnbuckle adjustments to maybe dial in the left pull on acceleration.

And I'm still not great at driving and I busted a rear wheel knuckle skidding out into a curb - ooops! so I ordered the YR 2 degree rear knuckles to replace the stock ones. Practice sure is fun!

Next up: I'm looking at replacing upper/lower front arms, front knuckles, and putting in the u-joints all around.

These things are a blast to drive and the number of parts options are great for being able to get it all fixed up and back out again quickly.

Almost finished with the body food the TT-02 kit I'm giving to my step-dad. He said he's ready to build a kit, but I also know he'd have no patience in doing the body (and, considering I've already spent a good 15 hours on it, NOW I understand what perks mean about Tamiya bodies being "complicated". Anyway, here's what it looks like so far.

I'd recommend the Tamiya upper adjustable arms for front and back. These are nice pieces. Also made out of the stronger grey reinforced plastics like you get with the one kind of TT02D kit that has the grey A parts(?)
So I found an issue with my rear diff, one of the internal gears that seats the drive cup rounded out, I had JB welded the diff. Still locked, but one side wasn't spinning like the other. This was causing it to pull left HARD under throttle. Slapped a fresh open diff in from my rally chassis and it's about as straight as an arrow again.
I'm still running YR lower arms, shock towers, front hubs and NHX rear hubs. Haven't bent the lower arms but it doesn't take much to bend the rear hubs. I've had the Tamiya 3° hubs bent, and the YR 2° hubs bent in the rear. The NHX I bent, but luckily had enough machinist tools to bend it right back.

You used flat paint it looks like? That looks really slick man!

As posted above, the rear diff being damaged is what was causing the hard pull under high throttle. Good to go now. Charging up my 3s to see if I can break something 😆

Yes...and no. Used standard Tamiya PS & Traxxas ProGraphix paints on the inside. Then, using my scalpel (I don't use X-Acto knives), I carefully...and, very lightly...cut the overspray film around the areas needing to remain 'glossy' (windows, headlights, taillights, front & rear air dams), and packed away the overspray film (except in the aforementioned areas. I also left the tape covering the windows, headlights, and taillights on the inside. After that, I sprayed Traxxas ProGraphix flat clear, waited for our to dry, and finally removed all (exterior) overspray film & (interior) tape. Just a standard "trick" for creating 'flat' paint jobs. My custom-painted Losi Baja Rey body, as well as both of my Spec Slash bodies, have all received the same treatment.

That's pretty cool. I was thinking something similar just didn't know that was a thing! It looks really good like that.

I've retired my GTR34 body and started using my 1991 Audi V8 body painted stock instead. Almost ready just waiting on the mail to come so I can add a little rear toe! Straight enough to try 3s again. Last time it fragged a cheap eBay wheel at like 50something lol. That was a crazy roll and somersault.


Stay tuned for pics of the completed EVO VII Tommy edition rally car. Waiting on a cheap 13.5T to go with the TBLE-04S, Wheels to match, and another high speed gear set.

Hi guys. Went with the Tamiya 54752 steering upgrade kit instead of the Yeah Racing one.

So this is pretty dumb, but I got the Yeah Racing rear toe plate. And the only way to get less than 3.5 degrees of toe in, you have to grind some rather large chunks off. Even though the instructions show the inside most lines are 1 degree of toe in, there is no possible way to achieve this with the toe plate.

Just thought I'd throw that out there in case anyone was interested.

EDIT- Upon actually trying to use the piece I've discovered that it's only the lines that have been printed wrong. The inside most position appears to be either 1 or zero toe.
I'll throw it on the setup station to make sure.

TT CLASS - ST. CHARLES, IL, HOBBYTOWN

Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.

What was funny was the numbers for oval and on road. It's a small carpet track and they ran on road in the morning and early afternoon and oval in the evening. They had three TT drivers for on road and they all finished on the same lap. For oval they had seven drivers. One may not have been a Tamiya TT car. My only criticism of the rules is there are too many hopups allowed. Obviously you need bearings, but the cars come with a motor and esc.I still thinks it's a very good idea.

Some might say "too many hop-ups allowed", while others might say "not enough hop-ups allowed". For example, I'd be in agreement on running the stock motor, but the stock ESC isn't good, so could allow alternates (the Traxxas XL-5 would be a great choice). I like the spec'd USGT tires, pinion, and the aluminum center driveshaft (the plastic one is garbage), but I could also see allowing the aluminum shocks (they don't leak like the plastic ones). I could also see allowing the oil-filled diffs, turnbuckles, and aluminum steering parts (if only because the stock units of all three are also garbage...ok, the stock diffs aren't 'garbage', but they also aren't very good).

The upgrades I've mentioned are all inexpensive (ok, except for, maybe, the shocks)...but, none of them are truly "performance" upgrades (ok, allowing oil-filled diffs would be a slight "performance" upgrade, but it's also a "handling" upgrade) - they are all "handling" upgrades (except for ESC, which is more of a "reliability" upgrade). Even with the upgrades I think should be allowed, the "performance" of all vehicles is maintained fairly equally, and only the "handling" characteristics are improved...thus, the real 'test' comes down to "driver ability". I guess another way of putting it is, upgrades dealing with "handling" should be allowed, but "pure performance" upgrades would be banned.