1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
11-08-2021 | 06:46 AM
#2911
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
I picked up another Tamiya TT-02 this morning, this time a White Special built but never run with the silver can motor and Tamiya ESC as a rally car with the Mitsubishi Lancer body . The blue camo colour scheme and striking looks nice. The previous owner had installed a YR light kit in the body and everything checked out perfectly. Just need to glue the tires and she's ready to attack the dirt trails.
11-08-2021 | 06:50 AM
#2912
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
Instead of buying a complete set, I would suggest to get aTT-02R and the body separately.
TT-02 R comes with a lot of the needed hop-ups (shocks, bearings, high speed gears, rear toe in hubs, etc.) right out of the box.
Pimping a standard TT-02 up to the same level will create higher costs....
TT-02 R comes with a lot of the needed hop-ups (shocks, bearings, high speed gears, rear toe in hubs, etc.) right out of the box.
Pimping a standard TT-02 up to the same level will create higher costs....
11-08-2021 | 07:08 AM
#2913
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,664
11-08-2021 | 08:35 AM
#2914
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
Spidermoss is bad enough outside when it gets wrapped up in the wheels!
11-08-2021 | 09:14 AM
#2916
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
I noticed reading through the thread that you have a pretty good understanding on suspension setup amongst other things.
Couple Qs.
On my TT02R I'm running 80% of the Yeah Racing full conversion kit.
Upper arms are stock plastic front and back. I'm sure you already know why LOL.
Type-S steering.
HW EZRUN MAX10 4000kv, 5.74 FDR, locked diffs front and rear. Punch on level 3.
2s and 3s Lipo.
Obviously a speed build. I'm running the lower arms parallel to the ground, Mini CVAs with the Tamiya kit oil and the single hole discs. Kit silver springs with no spacers(Have kit greys and Yeah Racing spring set, Black, red, blue, yellow and white). Shocks mounted as close as possible to 90 degrees to the ground.
Torque steer. I know its never going to be completely gone. I use a Futaba GYC441 on AVCS around 30% and it helps massively.
The droop sleeves for the Mini CVAs; I heard you mention more droop being needed/wanted in the rear.
So would I use the longer sleeves in the front shocks and the shorter ones in the rear?
I think the droop tuning may help a little here as well.
It pulls so hard to the left, That I can get it to drift left, but when I try to drift right, it just goes straight even with the tires turned right at 100% throttle.
I know this is probably telling me something but I'm having a middle aged brain fart.
I understand droop. If what I understand is correct, removing the droop from the front will also help torque steer?
I'm not club racing with it but I might try some drag racing.
Couple Qs.
On my TT02R I'm running 80% of the Yeah Racing full conversion kit.
Upper arms are stock plastic front and back. I'm sure you already know why LOL.
Type-S steering.
HW EZRUN MAX10 4000kv, 5.74 FDR, locked diffs front and rear. Punch on level 3.
2s and 3s Lipo.
Obviously a speed build. I'm running the lower arms parallel to the ground, Mini CVAs with the Tamiya kit oil and the single hole discs. Kit silver springs with no spacers(Have kit greys and Yeah Racing spring set, Black, red, blue, yellow and white). Shocks mounted as close as possible to 90 degrees to the ground.
Torque steer. I know its never going to be completely gone. I use a Futaba GYC441 on AVCS around 30% and it helps massively.
The droop sleeves for the Mini CVAs; I heard you mention more droop being needed/wanted in the rear.
So would I use the longer sleeves in the front shocks and the shorter ones in the rear?
I think the droop tuning may help a little here as well.
It pulls so hard to the left, That I can get it to drift left, but when I try to drift right, it just goes straight even with the tires turned right at 100% throttle.
I know this is probably telling me something but I'm having a middle aged brain fart.
I understand droop. If what I understand is correct, removing the droop from the front will also help torque steer?
I'm not club racing with it but I might try some drag racing.
11-08-2021 | 04:06 PM
#2917
@TurboThirdGen
well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.
My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.
I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.
On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.
You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.
For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.
In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.
My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.
I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.
On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.
You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.
For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.
In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
Last edited by Raman; 11-08-2021 at 04:16 PM.
11-09-2021 | 03:53 AM
#2918
Tech Master
iTrader: (73)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,029
From: Miami, FL
Hi guys loving this thread!!! Will be ordering my TT02 soon with some small upgrades. It will be just to drive around the house and some times at the local track for practices. Looking to upgrade bearings, 3 racing diffs and shocks. Which shocks would you think are better the Tamiya cva súper mini set or Yeah racing 50mm set. Thank you.
11-09-2021 | 04:37 AM
#2919
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,664
Hi guys loving this thread!!! Will be ordering my TT02 soon with some small upgrades. It will be just to drive around the house and some times at the local track for practices. Looking to upgrade bearings, 3 racing diffs and shocks. Which shocks would you think are better the Tamiya cva súper mini set or Yeah racing 50mm set. Thank you.
11-09-2021 | 07:11 AM
#2921
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,664
11-09-2021 | 08:22 AM
#2922
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
@TurboThirdGen
well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.
My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.
I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.
On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
PB is 47mph on 2s and 63mph on 3s. Haven't topped out on 3s yet.
Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Kit shock oil. Do have the shock oil that came with the Yeah racing shocks, but don't see a number on there. Got some motor oil though!
So when I had an open rear diff with some AW to tighten it up, the rear end spun so much I went through tires way too fast. I would imagine suspension setup also has alot to do here.
Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.
You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.
For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.
In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Will do. I think the big spacers in the front and the smaller spacers in the rear may work, That'll be my first try.
Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Ok, makes sense. Since I'm going with straight line speed, I'll try just moving the front shock positions in a hole to lay them down.
Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
So, I have no camber adjustment currently, so 0 front and back. Also running 0 toe rear hubs. I broke both the Yeah racing 2.5 and Tamiya 3 degree hubs rather quickly. Thinking about the steel Tamiya adjustable rear plate, but thats for shaft mounted arms, and the YR toe block wont allow use of the rear bumper, which is where my body posts are.
I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
The Futaba GYC441 can be used for forced heading hold(AVCS) or drift mode.
Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
I have a set of BSR 30mm foams and a set of BSR 32mm foams
well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.
My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.
I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.
On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
PB is 47mph on 2s and 63mph on 3s. Haven't topped out on 3s yet.
Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Kit shock oil. Do have the shock oil that came with the Yeah racing shocks, but don't see a number on there. Got some motor oil though!
So when I had an open rear diff with some AW to tighten it up, the rear end spun so much I went through tires way too fast. I would imagine suspension setup also has alot to do here.
Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.
You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.
For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.
In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Will do. I think the big spacers in the front and the smaller spacers in the rear may work, That'll be my first try.
Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Ok, makes sense. Since I'm going with straight line speed, I'll try just moving the front shock positions in a hole to lay them down.
Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
So, I have no camber adjustment currently, so 0 front and back. Also running 0 toe rear hubs. I broke both the Yeah racing 2.5 and Tamiya 3 degree hubs rather quickly. Thinking about the steel Tamiya adjustable rear plate, but thats for shaft mounted arms, and the YR toe block wont allow use of the rear bumper, which is where my body posts are.
I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
The Futaba GYC441 can be used for forced heading hold(AVCS) or drift mode.
Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
I have a set of BSR 30mm foams and a set of BSR 32mm foams
Gonna add to your quoted post in colored text.
11-09-2021 | 10:05 AM
#2924
Definitely add camber to front and back. Zero toe in back is causing the instability. I’m running 2° In on my rear and 1° out on front
11-09-2021 | 10:07 AM
#2925
However if you plan on hitting some dirty / rallye, stick with TT02.