You need a 3MM X 5MM spacer. I think mine are from an old Ofna shim kit. Not sure where to get that nowadays.

I have new hardware kit, but when I screw it in it presses outside bearing and can't spin.
I don't have a washer behind collet.
Black collet came with motor but it pushes flywheel even further.
cluch bell should be losis, at least dimensions of bearings match, inner bearing is bigger than outher one

No, a 3mmx5mm spacer effectively extends the crankshaft.
Something like this but not this exact item because it's 20 bucks.. I can't seem to find any others though. If you can't find spacers, you'll have to change some other parts in your setup to pull the flywheel closer to the crankcase or something.
https://www.hobbytown.com/serpent-3x...110411/p233738

You need the short collet that came with the losi clutch. You have the washer for the pilot screw. The crank will not extend past the clutch bell which is why you need that washer with the stub on the back side.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...TLR241052.html

this is exactly what I have on there right now

Is that the losi short collet? Is it the same height as the black collet?

black is 7mm

Perfect, then that's the short Losi collet. Put that back together and see where you're at.

for what its worth i made it through the race weekend.
2 quals and a 12 min main. needed 2 pits with the .28 on my truggy as its super fat right now.
seemed to drop its nuts halfway through the second qual.

im currently running 30/8 bones as the manual reccomends 30/10 blended. I shouldnt have any issue with this right?
im almost out of the bones and ill probably switch to the nitrotane 30 percent as its all thats available locally. I dont think that little change would warrent messing with the head shims but im still a noob.

All the pics are with that collet on

How many shims on top of the clutch nut?

3 thin ones, 0.1 I think, they are not the reason for this gap

Set the collet into the flywheel and take a picture so we can see how far it protrudes out of the flywheels backside. Either one of those two parts aren't right in some way, or you can just use the 3mm spacer idea I gave you prior.

Every shim that you take out from under the bell is just that much closer the end of the crankshaft gets to the outside bearing. As I stated previously, the crank will not protrude from the bearing. It will always be less than flush.

My crankshafts always stick out past the outer clutch-bell bearing.

Well...okay, I think I have one that doesn't. Anyway it's good to have a variety of shim sizes on-hand to deal with the extremely common situation where the crankshaft is a fraction of a millimeter too long or too short. I use Kyosho shims because they come in a wide variety of Metric sizes, and three different thicknesses per pack.