The pipe you got is a good pipe. I run the 9853 which is the same as your 053 pipe. The key to engine power lies more in the header than in the pipe. The pipe makes a difference but not as much in my opinion as the header. I suggest that you purchase the Nova Rossi 41031 conical header 41031 . This will provide all the power you will ever want across the entire power band at the expense of using a bit more fuel.

You need to get the engine hotter. A cold break-in is not a good thing. 200+ is where it needs to be and this can be achieved by leaning (turn clockwise) the low speed needle. Getting the temp right is important.

Lee

The manual page in my link seems pretty straight forward to me. A far cry from 32,000rpm too. At no point do they say to idle for any period. They say to run an oily fuel. And run the engine slow in the car at first and gradually lean it out and increase rpm. That’s about as straightforward as it gets. These engines don’t need to be babied for 2 gallons. Run 2-3 tanks with oily fuel and at operating temp, and go race. Forget the EBIS, forget the idling on the box. Run the damn thing for crying out loud. It’s not a china doll!

No matter what you ask you'll get a ton of different views and methods I suggest reading the braking Bible on the from page . You can also watch the video of Adam Drake done by Jason at shortcourseworld. And the tessmann videos are long, I haven't watched the entire thing .But with it being that cold outside, you should have some foil or something to keep the engine warmer. 200° F is a good rule of thumb to break it in at .

Nearly all of those bandwagon methods involves idling the engine for a tank or three. If you don’t care about how long the engine lasts, then it doesn’t matter what you do. Have your cat break your engine in then. If you care about how long the engine lasts and want the best performance from it, follow what the manufacturer recommends. Novarossi has been making model engines for a long ass time. They know a thing or two...

But hey, they’re your engines.

You think? Those factory break-in manuals are that carefull that they always do the job but you will never know if they are the best for the best results and lifespan.
All 1001 break in methodes do work but if you want the best then you should know all factors like which materials, the tightness of the pinch and the depth og the surface roughness to setup a plan how to deal with it. And even then it is the question if it is the best. Due tolerances no 2 engines are the same and so no break in and its results are the same.

There is a video that RCDriver put together at the Novarossi factory with the guy from Novarossi direct

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PSS1Z7wtVmQ&t=1s

I’m glad that video was posted. Thank you for that. What they do in their engine room is actually the best thing for an ABC engine for break-in. Of course car guys tend to be paranoid and would never think of using such a process, but it’s been done that way on airplanes since day 1.

What the manual from Novarossi outlines is the safe way that anyone can follow and get to work. Certainly a far cry from what I call the “bandwagon” methods though.

So in a way, I stand corrected to a point. In another way, they’re doing what I’ve been flamed for in the past. Keep it rich, keep it warm, and run the damn thing.

Oh, and Allen at PlanetHobby is a swell guy. Customer service is 1000% better than Nova Direct.

Before people start to copy that High RPM break in proces, let me remind you that airplaines are used to run on 15 to 20% lubrication and you will never know the lubrication of the fuel used in that vid but I doubt it is a car fuel with arround 10% oil.

Yep. 20-25% oil is what I use to break in my airplane engines and I would use no less than 15% oil in a car engine. I break my car engines in on 14% oil in the car for the first quart and drop 1% oil per quart until I’m at 11% oil.

What are we using for throttle return? Spring, the silicone o rings? hair tie?

Hair tie

Not sure about the history of EB Mods Kinetic engine since im just getting back into the hobby but thought i would post this here since its a NOVA engine with 8-ports. Ed's got them listed on EBAY right now for 149.99 shipped which is a great price. Figured someone might be looking for NOVA without paying over 200. I would get one but just bought 2 new engines before i saw it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetic-R-C...e/332245680956

[QUOTE = Jomo918; 15405212] Não tenho certeza sobre a história do mecanismo Kinetic do EB Mods, já que estou voltando para o hobby, mas pensei em postar isso aqui, já que é um mecanismo NOVA com 8 portas. Ed tem-los listados no EBAY agora para 149,99 enviados, que é um ótimo preço. Imaginei que alguém poderia estar procurando NOVA sem pagar mais de 200. Eu compraria um, mas acabei de comprar dois novos motores antes de vê-lo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetic-RC-GR8-21-EB-Spec-Novarossi-Engine/332245680956 [/ CITAÇÕES]



I think there is a topic of this engine here in the forum.

What differences does the two Novarossi?
51006M EFRA 9901 and 51006 EFRA 9901?