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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 06-28-2020 | 12:15 AM
  #2551  
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Out in the parking lot playing around. The car likes to swap ends under acceleration. I would like to get more rear droop but the springs are too stiff. I set ride height and preload and get maybe 1 to 1.5 mm of rear droop. I'm running yellow fronts, kit rears. The beige springs seem softer than the reds. Ride height is 5.5 all around. I'm running internal stops in the shocks and the shimming preload with the spring spacers. If I take out the shims, I'm left with slop. I'd really like to find a longer, softer spring to allow more droop. Do I have to go aftermarket or is the a set of soft springs that works with the CVA shocks? I'm sticking with the CVA set as they are TCS legal for the class I plan to run.
I used to have 29mm springs in the CVA shocks of my TB-03. They are long enough to be installed without spacers.
MST 29mm springs
They are sold in pairs or in Sets of 8 springs. Maybe Set 820113 can be a good starting point for you: 820113 (buut no guarantee that they will have your needed characteristics)
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Old 06-28-2020 | 04:50 PM
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liljohn1064 Have you tried the kit springs in the front and yellow in rear? Or yellow (that come with the CVAs) all around? I think those silver kit springs are stiffer than the yellow springs, which is going to make the car tail-happy.

Even with balanced springs (yellow) all around, I find it's relatively easy to get out of shape putting power down coming out of a corner. I suspect that the kit tires have a lot to do with it too.

OTOH, with only a torque tuned motor, changing to super sticky tires will eliminate any drama involved in driving this thing.
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Old 06-28-2020 | 05:44 PM
  #2553  
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Originally Posted by SennaPK
liljohn1064 Have you tried the kit springs in the front and yellow in rear? Or yellow (that come with the CVAs) all around? I think those silver kit springs are stiffer than the yellow springs, which is going to make the car tail-happy.

Even with balanced springs (yellow) all around, I find it's relatively easy to get out of shape putting power down coming out of a corner. I suspect that the kit tires have a lot to do with it too.

OTOH, with only a torque tuned motor, changing to super sticky tires will eliminate any drama involved in driving this thing.
I completely agree. The kit springs are the softest. I have the hard set yellow on the front. They will come off. I ordered some Sweep 32 and 36 sets, both J type, the asphalt designation. I'm hoping for some better results.
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Old 06-29-2020 | 10:59 AM
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So I'm currently building the Tamiya TT02 universal shafts ... I machined this aluminum ring and attached to each universal wheel axle with some superglue. To capture the cross joint's pin and prevent it from coming loose.
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Old 06-29-2020 | 12:57 PM
  #2555  
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Also tried something new here ... rubber cover on the universal joint to keep grease in and dirt out. I cut about 1" off the ends of Qualatex 260Q balloons to make these.
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Old 07-01-2020 | 10:23 AM
  #2556  
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I bought the SkyRC GSM020 GPS a while back ... I wanted to track how fast the TT02 can go with a 19 turn, hand-wound brushed motor and 7.2v Ni-MH battery. Yesterday I changed to a 29T pinion and 55T spur gear (4.931 FDR) and put some advanced timing to the motor ... today it tops out at 37mph. Not bad.

The stock TBLE-02S ESC couldn't handle the motor anymore at this gear ratio though. I swapped it out with a Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 and it's working OK so far.


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Old 07-01-2020 | 10:43 AM
  #2557  
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Originally Posted by userst


So I'm currently building the Tamiya TT02 universal shafts ... I machined this aluminum ring and attached to each universal wheel axle with some superglue. To capture the cross joint's pin and prevent it from coming loose.
How do you take it apart in case of a damage or a needed repair?
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Old 07-01-2020 | 10:58 AM
  #2558  
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Originally Posted by JJ100179
How do you take it apart in case of a damage or a needed repair?
Yeah I'd probably have to knock it loose with a hammer when that time comes. More ideal solution would've been to use a removable ring locked onto a groove on the shaft's outer diameter.
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Old 07-01-2020 | 11:00 AM
  #2559  
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Has anyone seen that Tamiya is selling these Mercedes CLK TT-01E kits again?

$115 is hard to beat

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...47437/p1172162
Also considering it comes w/ the ESC and a Motor, it is a GREAT deal, ...yet I have enough cars so as tempting as it is ...
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Old 07-02-2020 | 01:16 PM
  #2560  
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after one year not using my tt02s I upgrade the adjustable suspension block from the rear SR and the new aluminium steering... tomorrow I shorten the body posts and setup and race this weekend! I will see if it make the car better or worst
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Old 07-02-2020 | 02:45 PM
  #2561  
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That custom pin retention ring is a great idea. FYI: Acetone can break down super glue. Just don't use acetone on Tamiya ABS plastic (such as the wheels) unless you want to totally dissolve the plastic. Just be careful not to let it soak into your skin.
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Old 07-04-2020 | 12:51 PM
  #2562  
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FYI the new tt02s and sr steering is out of box a good choice and I will stick to the new one.
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Old 07-13-2020 | 09:05 AM
  #2563  
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek
I just want the body.
me too - I remember when those were the real thing.
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Old 07-25-2020 | 08:51 PM
  #2564  
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Bought diff lock number 54649 and it's not compatible with my tt02rr diff. Did I buy the wrong part? Drive cup to big to go into the diff lock hub. Love wasting money if this is not it lol
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Old 07-25-2020 | 10:14 PM
  #2565  
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Part is correct, but you will need Standard TT-02 Diff housing (Tamiya 51331) to get the spool fit your RR.

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