Tamiya TT02 Thread
#2281
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 11
Yeah it was recommended as a first car to get into the hobby but honestly I've sunk way too much I should've just gotten a 2nd hand 1-2 year old chassis instead
learned from my mistakes and picked up an awesomatix a800x evo 2nd hand already. Appreciate the offer though thanks 
I made a mistake, I meant the tt01D. Because I originally got the tt02d for the oil shocks + bearings and it just looks like they took a step backward in that department
learned from my mistakes and picked up an awesomatix a800x evo 2nd hand already. Appreciate the offer though thanks 
I made a mistake, I meant the tt01D. Because I originally got the tt02d for the oil shocks + bearings and it just looks like they took a step backward in that department
#2282
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
Stock up on suspension pivot clips for that Awesomatix. Also.. a spare top and bottom deck. You won't regret keeping those as spares.
Because it sounds like you've been tossed in without the cheat sheet. Get a thread forming tap. Not thread cutting. Locktite for all metal to metal joints that have nothing as a squish medium. (EG bulkheads through an aluminum chassis with steel screws? those need locktite. If there''s a carbon chassis, you don't need to.) Be sure to setup sane endpoints for your servos. If you don't, and there's overtravel, you're going to waste input into your servo saver. "even" is more important than "no slop".
Good luck on your new car. :-)
Because it sounds like you've been tossed in without the cheat sheet. Get a thread forming tap. Not thread cutting. Locktite for all metal to metal joints that have nothing as a squish medium. (EG bulkheads through an aluminum chassis with steel screws? those need locktite. If there''s a carbon chassis, you don't need to.) Be sure to setup sane endpoints for your servos. If you don't, and there's overtravel, you're going to waste input into your servo saver. "even" is more important than "no slop".
Good luck on your new car. :-)
#2287
Hello All, 20+ year racer, but been out about 10 years now and looking to get back on a very slim budget. I don't really know anything about Tamiya, but founf this and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Based on the tt01-e, which so I've read so far not the best of choice for VTA. But this has the upgrades and CF chassis so thought it might be a viable choice. Can't beat the price. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

Thanks

#2288
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
TL;DR: Buy a Sakura Advance S. It's $110, has everything you need to be competitive on-road.
The longer story. Aluminum, isn't good for suspension bits. That "kit" has no adjustable camber. No way to adjust suspension blocks. Who knows if it comes with useful diffs (unlikely at best). Who knows what the support system is like. EG: can you replace an arm. How do you put swaybars on it? Can the chassis be narrowed so it doesn't drag on the carpet? How do you adjust droop? All you really need to know, is that that chassis has slots for NiCd batteries.
It's fancy looking, it's there to look good for drifters. It's not for racing.
The longer story. Aluminum, isn't good for suspension bits. That "kit" has no adjustable camber. No way to adjust suspension blocks. Who knows if it comes with useful diffs (unlikely at best). Who knows what the support system is like. EG: can you replace an arm. How do you put swaybars on it? Can the chassis be narrowed so it doesn't drag on the carpet? How do you adjust droop? All you really need to know, is that that chassis has slots for NiCd batteries.
It's fancy looking, it's there to look good for drifters. It's not for racing.
#2289
TL;DR: Buy a Sakura Advance S. It's $110, has everything you need to be competitive on-road.
The longer story. Aluminum, isn't good for suspension bits. That "kit" has no adjustable camber. No way to adjust suspension blocks. Who knows if it comes with useful diffs (unlikely at best). Who knows what the support system is like. EG: can you replace an arm. How do you put swaybars on it? Can the chassis be narrowed so it doesn't drag on the carpet? How do you adjust droop? All you really need to know, is that that chassis has slots for NiCd batteries.
It's fancy looking, it's there to look good for drifters. It's not for racing.
The longer story. Aluminum, isn't good for suspension bits. That "kit" has no adjustable camber. No way to adjust suspension blocks. Who knows if it comes with useful diffs (unlikely at best). Who knows what the support system is like. EG: can you replace an arm. How do you put swaybars on it? Can the chassis be narrowed so it doesn't drag on the carpet? How do you adjust droop? All you really need to know, is that that chassis has slots for NiCd batteries.
It's fancy looking, it's there to look good for drifters. It's not for racing.
#2291
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
But... at the R price... unless you ~need~ a tamiya tub, or you need sealed drivetrain.... there's not a lot of good argument for it.
So, what are you really wanting? Why is compatibility with the TT01 a question?
#2292
I have time, as there is nothing going on yil at least march. was looking at tamiya because of cost of parts. we have no local hobby shop, so everything will have to be online. I have looked a bit at the sakura so may explore that a liitle more thoroughly. thanks for all the input
#2293
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 414
The TT02SR has been announced and is the Type S with some extra hopups and would be the pick but who knows when it will actually be released.
The R is just the base one with some hopups. The RR is better and has oil filled diffs which are useful.
You could also look at stuff like the Express XQ1S which is by all accounts very capable and a good price point. If these had been out when I bought my TA07 Pro I would have gone with the Express and saved some money
#2294
I had my son run the S for a season. We couldn't finish a race without breaking the front end at least once per outing. C-hubs are out of stock across the world in most cases (btw this is TRF415 suspension, not 418). It has the worst of both worlds, older racecar suspension fragility with so much slop it's pointless anyway, and el-cheapo tamiya all-the-rest. Pure disaster. A stock TT02 + bearings is a much better choice than a S because the front suspension at least holds itself together... but in all fairness ANY budget racecar (sakura, teamC, heck even the hobbyking clone) is a better choice than a TT02 if you're going to hit the track at all. the next season, I handed him my old Xray T3 2012 over... I think across the whole season he broke one c-hub, (remember the car was already 6 or 7 years old by then)... TT02 is fantastic to have fun on the parking lot with awesome bodies. The moment you hit the track you realize there are MUCH better options that are just marginally more expensive.
#2295
[QUOTE=Woof6;15588750]Hello All, 20+ year racer, but been out about 10 years now and looking to get back on a very slim budget. I don't really know anything about Tamiya, but founf this and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Based on the tt01-e, which so I've read so far not the best of choice for VTA. But this has the upgrades and CF chassis so thought it might be a viable choice. Can't beat the price. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
I think this car is more for drifting then racing.
I would see what the other people are using at the track. You might get lucky and they might have a class requiring a chassis that doesn't cost much, to get people into racing. Track I race at has a class for stock tt-02. I can race for about $350 and know I'm not competing against people with about $3000 into their car.
I would look for a used X-ray, Associated or some other chassis made for racing, if your looking to save money and be competitive on a track with open chassis racing.
Thanks
I think this car is more for drifting then racing.
I would see what the other people are using at the track. You might get lucky and they might have a class requiring a chassis that doesn't cost much, to get people into racing. Track I race at has a class for stock tt-02. I can race for about $350 and know I'm not competing against people with about $3000 into their car.
I would look for a used X-ray, Associated or some other chassis made for racing, if your looking to save money and be competitive on a track with open chassis racing.
Last edited by proliteandsc; 02-03-2020 at 10:55 AM.





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