Thank you, both!

The irony is that the blue metal you see on the pictures and the blue metal that comes next week costs more than all custom parts I have ever installed in this car
I had to bite the lemon once more and ordered some more hardware. Some of it is to make the car bulletproof for a race weekend, but most of the money is to get rid of the heavy steel ballstuds and nuts I have everywhere in the chassis. I want a light and agile car for our south german asphalt tracks. This should also lower the c.o.g., because nearly all of the steel is located in the upper quarter of the chassis.

Today I focussed on details:
I aligned the anti-roll-bars and installed the set screws to take out excessive play.
The rear TT-02RR oil filled gear diff got a service and a lot of Green Slime. Unfortunately it still starts to leak after a day of running, but only out of the left outdrive...

In the front the Tamiya double joint cardans got longer axles (46mm), as the 44mm were a little too short. Luckily I had the 46mm axles at home from the KR-MF project.

Then the arms were upgraded with Awesomatix excenter ballheads and adjusted to the right height. While doing this, I had real trouble with the suspension ballcups (again). Two broke and every second had to be squeezed a lot to get rid of bending. There seems to be the need to learn how to work with this part. I thought it would be more easy...

I also installed the ULP shock absorbers. Early next week I will get RC missions short shock shafts. They recommend to use new plastic parts for their shafts, so I installed my SLP shafts to finally see the car in full:

Very nice, hard work pays off

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!

The shock shafts arrived from Canada. The FedEx guy hid the package on a lamp, around 1.8m high. A point where I didn‘t search and didn’t find it at first
I finished the shocks, set ride height, camber, toe, droop and tweak. Everything worked on first try, like working with a normal car. Also the parts geometry is spot on. All shocks are within half a millimeter on their ride height setting nut (I don‘t know the word...). Very cool. It seems I am full of luck with this build.
With tires the chassis looks even lower.
Remember the discussion we had a few months ago? With version 2 I would say the KR loses its TT-02 character by a huge amount. On some pictures it looks like something individual. Well, I don’t mind.


First a look on the RC mission shock shafts:






On the Hudy tweak station:




Low, lower, TT-02 KR v2

Awesome build!

Meanwhile I continue with detail work. I added all the blue screws, nuts and ballstuds. Also the expensive servo mounts, an alumium servo arm and the new hard bumper of the T4‘19. The latter three parts added weight, while all the aluminium screws shaved off more than 20 grams.
The steering assembly was rearranged to put the whole unit 2.5mm lower in the chassis. A very easy modification if you have the blue drivetrain parts. The trick is to install the steering posts from above. That is all.







Today the dust caps arrived:



Unfortunately the weather will be cold this weekend. I hope to do the first shakedown indoors in two days.

Tomorrow is shakedown time
I finished all small tasks and made new holes in the body, because of the changed body post locations.
I also used the time to measure the „fight“ weight of the RTR car:



My hope is to be 150 - 200 grams lighter than the competition to compensate for the shorty lipo use outdoors.
The straigths will be my weak point and the curves my strength, at least that is my hope...

I am totally clueless here.
Happy for any help regarding this topic

Back from the track. The first run was a big relief The car is working great! Already in the first laps I found a good rhythm. The car does its work in an unimpressed manner. Nothing failed, again not even a loose screw.



The track was hardly used in the past 3-4 weeks and I had to work the driving line all by myself today. With every run the line got faster. In the last run I ended up with 10.9s best laptime and an average of 11.2s the whole day. These numbers tell the story quite good (the driver was not up to his full potential, though). The car is more easy and predictable to drive than the v1. I really wouldn’t have thought, that the lower c.o.g. is as clear to feel as I experienced it today. In the first runs I had the droop set wrong (more than 3mm over ride height) and I didn‘t recognize it, because the chassis hardly rolled under load. After correcting this, I didn‘t improve much and couldn‘t see the car behaving different. Also the car is a blast over the curbs. It stays calm and allows the driver to keep pushing.
Also very recognizable are the Awesomatix camberlinks and my new carbon fiber arms. The car can take more speed into a fast corner than before. With less flex it also seems, that it doesn‘t scrub off speed in the corner middle like it did before.
The plastic parts hold up well. Well, I didn‘t crash the car even once, so they do their job.

If everything goes as planned, I will do an outdoor test on tuesday. Until then I have a load of work to do checking everything, rebuilding the differential, installing the dust covers, and so on (I finally came up with a good idea for the batterymount, too).