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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 07-16-2018 | 08:25 PM
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Does anyone run foam under the battery for extra cushion?
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Old 07-17-2018 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jevs
Does anyone run foam under the battery for extra cushion?
I have used a very thin layer, but you can't use anything thick or the body will likely be hitting the battery and not fit right. Thin foam or felt might work if you have enough space between the body and lipo. Most lipo cases crack after big hard landings. I glue the case and tape it with one layer of gorilla tape and call it good. There is not much you can do to prevent the hard cases from eventually doing this. Nature of the beast. I'm all about protecting the lipo and keeping the wires from moving or flopping around is the number one thing I always put effort in. IMO most 4s lipos die due to wire tabs breaking off in the case. If you are lucky it doesn't short out and burn to the ground, it just looses power.
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Old 07-17-2018 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
I have used a very thin layer, but you can't use anything thick or the body will likely be hitting the battery and not fit right. Thin foam or felt might work if you have enough space between the body and lipo. Most lipo cases crack after big hard landings. I glue the case and tape it with one layer of gorilla tape and call it good. There is not much you can do to prevent the hard cases from eventually doing this. Nature of the beast. I'm all about protecting the lipo and keeping the wires from moving or flopping around is the number one thing I always put effort in. IMO most 4s lipos die due to wire tabs breaking off in the case. If you are lucky it doesn't short out and burn to the ground, it just looses power.
+1

most my batteries go bad from the solder coming off on the Lipo side, not from puffing
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Old 07-17-2018 | 04:07 PM
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had a good race here with my EB48.4, was in contention in the amain but after coming back from the nitro which was a bit underpowered due to finishing engine break-in I was sailing things too much lol. Ended up 4th.

Right now will probably try my diff setup I had on the nitro I liked, which was 7-5-3 or at least 7-7-3 versus 7-7-5
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Old 07-18-2018 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
had a good race here with my EB48.4, was in contention in the amain but after coming back from the nitro which was a bit underpowered due to finishing engine break-in I was sailing things too much lol. Ended up 4th.

Right now will probably try my diff setup I had on the nitro I liked, which was 7-5-3 or at least 7-7-3 versus 7-7-5
Depends on your electronic's weight, yeah! I run 7-7-4 with a hw 4268 g2 / hw xr8+ / savox 1267 / wsline 5300 battery. With lighter, go up in diff, with heavier go down.
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Old 07-20-2018 | 10:00 AM
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Hey all,

Are the front and rear diffs on this buggy considered "easy access" like the RC8B3.1 where you remove a few screws and remove the diffs? It doesn't really talk about this in the description. Looking to buy a new buggy and between this and the 3.1, and I hate the idea of working on my current Kyosho it's such a chore to do anything when working on it.

thanks!
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Old 07-20-2018 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hord1080
Hey all,

Are the front and rear diffs on this buggy considered "easy access" like the RC8B3.1 where you remove a few screws and remove the diffs? It doesn't really talk about this in the description. Looking to buy a new buggy and between this and the 3.1, and I hate the idea of working on my current Kyosho it's such a chore to do anything when working on it.

thanks!
Yes, I would consider it relatively easy access, just a few screws to remove each diff, you can leave the arms/shocks installed, etc..
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Old 07-21-2018 | 11:37 AM
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It's not easy access like the eb410, you have to remove the front/rear end from the chassis, and remove the a/d block from what i remember... it's not too much work, but def nothing like the eb410 or the rc8b3.1 setups.
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Old 07-21-2018 | 12:52 PM
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Cool thanks. Anyone have opinion on 48.4 vs B3.1 so far now that another racing season is half over? Performance and durability wise? Race on a tighter smaller track with a low grip surface that's either just watered or dried out and hard with fluff on outside of turns.

I have an sct 410.3 does that share parts still with the. 4 or is it more so for the.3?
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Old 07-22-2018 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by hord1080
Cool thanks. Anyone have opinion on 48.4 vs B3.1 so far now that another racing season is half over? Performance and durability wise? Race on a tighter smaller track with a low grip surface that's either just watered or dried out and hard with fluff on outside of turns.

I have an sct 410.3 does that share parts still with the. 4 or is it more so for the.3?
The eb48.4 is an excellent vehicle. I have not broken a single part up until this weekend when I stripped a spur gear but it was my fault surely. The only parts I have seen broken more then once are shock shafts which can be expected from all vehicles. The sct410.3 does share alot of parts with the .4. Refer to your manual to check which ones but things like spur gears, differentials, front .4 shock shafts are rear sct410.3, etc. You can even use the .4 chassis on the sct410.3 with minor changes.
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Old 07-24-2018 | 04:13 PM
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Anyone know the difference between TKR8152 and TKR8152B pinion gears?
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Old 07-24-2018 | 07:21 PM
  #1557  
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Originally Posted by codysb05
Anyone know the difference between TKR8152 and TKR8152B pinion gears?
One is for the 39 tooth ring gear (TKR8152B) and the other (TKR8152) is for the 40 tooth.
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Old 07-26-2018 | 07:39 AM
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Has anyone ever noticed that the smooth tack setup sheet and most "all" setup sheets the pros post never use the Middle or Rear braces on the car? Is this just the norm to do and everyone knows this and I'm the only one that has remained in the dark?

Last edited by shuless; 07-26-2018 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Rewording
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Old 07-26-2018 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shuless
Has anyone ever noticed that the smooth tack setup sheet and most "all" setup sheets the pros post never use the Middle or Rear braces on the car? Is this just the norm to do and everyone knows this and I'm the only one that has remained in the dark?
The local club in my area attracts lots of pro drivers and they all recommend removing those braces because our track is smooth and it generates considerably more traction with faster corner speed. So for our area, yeah it's pretty much "the norm", but if there are no local pros in your area to help spread the word, then I can see how you might feel you're left somewhat in the dark.

There is a trade off... I've seen some sportsman level drivers put the braces back on after getting into some nasty cartwheels, it's more likely to strip the rear gear box off the chassis... you'd want to be a relatively clean driver before removing the braces
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Old 07-26-2018 | 09:20 AM
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Wow, all this time and never knew. This explains ALOT of issues I've been having then. Didn't ever notice this until after another discouraging race day and going over setup sheets for the thousandth time and thankfully right before making another Weekly " These have got to be the tires" online order. I will say one thing though, I'll bet anyone I'll win racing on a sheet of ice. I've had way more practice than most people.

Last edited by shuless; 07-26-2018 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Rewording
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