VBC is sending out new arms, new inserts and new rear hubs to existing customers and all new kits include the new parts.

Glad to hear about the replacement arms, inserts and hubs.

As for those like me that are still awaiting them, I would suggest gluing the arm insert with ca to hold the arm together in crash, and using a 3mm arm reamer to make sure they glide smooth on the hinge pin, and the aluminum chub bottom glide smooth.

Had a fantastic club race this past saturday with the d10, the car was still almost 40 grams overweight and still handled great.

Lighter servo and Hiro Seiko screw kit are going in over Christmas break, should be ready to rock shortly.

How do you know if your getting a updated kit with all the upgrades?

Still no kit here in Switzerland, the distributor decided to wait on updated kits...

Gary Lanzer's D10 look good at Fastraxx yesterday. He sings much praise for how well the car drives and feels.

Good question, I'm assuming VBC kept track of who got kits from them and how many went to distributors, so they can forward on to their customers.

The anticipated release date of the upgraded parts is Dec 20, so if all goes well we should get replacements there after.

I have my car working quite well on black carpet right now........I'll post a setup sheet and some of the things I did to get the durability up on the current parts.

Did a build review of the D10. Check it out if you're interested:

https://kentech.wordpress.com/2017/1...edition-build/


http://www.facebook.com/blogkentech/

I'm pretty happy with the quality of my FXM. The D10 looks like it has different ball studs and cups, are they as good as Tamiya or other brands?

Can someone explain what's the issue about arms, inserts and hubs.
If I buy an old car kit (the first one released) can I fix these issues and how ......
thanks so much and happy new 2018 to everyone ;-)

The 4.9 ball cups are pretty decent. The plastice is more pliable then I would prefer for certain areas of the car, but they do last.

If you JB weld the inserts into the arms and then use a reamer just ensure free pin movement, the arms are quite durable. Since I glued them in I haven't had any arm issues. The rear hubs or uprights, I think may be opened up a bit as it was very tight to get the bearings in. I don't think there where any other issues with them.


For all......I have found that if you JB weld the 4mm lower steering hub screw into the hub, it doesn't take much, but locks the screw in place. You can really tighten the screw up and take a considerable amount of slop out of the front end that the combination of the screw and ball bearings can have. this also prevents the screw from loosening off and ruing the steering hub itself.

I also, was sent a email confirmation on the 26th with tracking number, that my replacement parts have been sent out.

got my replacement parts last week, items look about the same, but should be alright

We just received shipment from VBC racing today.

All VBC D10 kits we have will be shipped with new suspension arms, rear hubs and inserts.

FYI, Thanks.

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...asp?p_id=13076

I received my replacement parts last night. The arms are the same as the previous arms in appearance but I'm told that they have been adjusted to rectify the toe issue. So its best to still glue the inserts in for better durability.

The rear uprights are also re-adjusted to address the rear toe issue with the car.

They also included 4 suspension arm pins, which have been shortened about 1mm.

I just purchased a D10, this is my 4th version the VBC cars and absolutely love them, I have had the D07, D08, D09, and now the D10. Thank you to everyone for their posts as it has made it easier to build the car. I have some questions for the group.

1. I used the arms and inserts that came with the kit but also received the replacement arms, how do I know which arms to use.
2. I also used the kit rear uprights so same question as above which should I use.
3. I have been building the car using the default setup but I am concerned about using the front arms in. Should I have both rear and front arms out. I run on outdoor asphalt tracks from low grip to high grip and from small tight tracks to large fast tracks.

Thank you for any input.

use the replacement arms & rear uprights ( unless you are sure you didn't get one of the first batch of kits that came out )
I run on similar tracks to you & have both front & rear arm inserts facing in
( be sure to glue these inserts into the arms )
hope this helps