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Old 11-09-2017, 08:58 PM   #61
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I got my D10 built and put on about 200 test laps, car is awesome, great corner speed and a nice drive. I'll post my build notes and a decent setup for mid traction carpet shortly. I'll also try to enlighten everyone on the multiple chassis settings, the car responds very well to them.
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:41 AM   #62
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Yes the 4mm id spacers are the ones you need to use. Technically that spacer is also T2 7075, but a different id. I ended up using the 1mm thick ones and 4mm on the inner link mount, the stock setup has a lot of link angle and heats the tires pretty fast resulting in early death rings.
Thought so. Thanks.

I'll probably be testing the 2mm rather than a 1mm as our track has really low grip. It's a concrete slab with the occasional dust on it so we usually go down in winter to 24 compound tyres with traction additive and tyre warmers. Just have to wait and see what works.
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:06 PM   #63
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Default Build Part 1

Well, it went quite smooth so far.

The diff still feels like there's a high spot on one of the gears, but experience is that it'll last at least a season with 10K in it.



No issues this time around with the spool and outdrives fitment - just wish the outdrive lines matched for the axles. Make sure to trim the flashing on the spool guide as well.





The bulkheads would be better if they had a key for the chassis, but the T-Work's tool makes it pretty simple to line up without.



The rear brace is interesting.. the single shim spot will be 1mm shim instead of 0.5mm in the manual, I believe that's been mentioned already in this thread.



Going to try out the motor mount with just the single, and two closest to spur, none on the square around the spur for now, since there is already the rear brace.



Mis-shipped spur with the kit, contact [email protected] and they will correct this for you.



I'm excited for the new plastics on the ball ends for the turnbuckles. They look more rigid and the tolerances are tighter and still free.



Shimmed up the bulkhead clamps all the way around with 0.3mm shims, maybe use 0.2mm if you want it a bit tighter. Centering the belt took a bit more work for this build. Usually adjusting the left or right bearing carriers one spot will center the belt, but it took an offset of 3 in the front, and 1 in the rear.





That's it for part 1.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:45 PM   #64
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I got my D10 built and put on about 200 test laps, car is awesome, great corner speed and a nice drive. I'll post my build notes and a decent setup for mid traction carpet shortly. I'll also try to enlighten everyone on the multiple chassis settings, the car responds very well to them.
Gary, how did you find the steering throw, as you previously said (as did I )you had a concern with no stopper on the steering knuckle/c hub ??
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:55 PM   #65
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Gary, how did you find the steering throw, as you previously said (as did I )you had a concern with no stopper on the steering knuckle/c hub ??
Im actually having to eat my words on that, and I'm not sure how they accomplished it, but I have tried to physically crank the wheel over and it would take on heck of a impact to get that wheel cranked over enough to bend or break those pieces. The cars front end is amazingly tight, very little slop, and no caster changes on extreme steering angle. Its amazing how its accomplished with the single upper link like it is.

The car is darn good, and the red and black is stunning.

Also the steering limiter is fully functional now as well.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:51 PM   #66
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Default My D10 build notes.

Taking into account the comments from Nuts&Bolts and Tyree, I was aware of the quirks that this car could potentially have. Because the majority of tracks I run on are mid to high traction, I opted to build the car with the aluminum chassis. This is a nice black chassis, and is suppose to be from a different supplier than the previous models. This one definitely has a different "clunk" to it if you give it a tap with a wrench, so that's about it for my scientific analysis of the different material.

I opted to open all the other bags that had any carbon parts so that I could seal them before assembly. I'm not a big fan of sealing the edges with super glue but I knock the edge off just slightly and then use blue locktite on the edge to seal. I use a q-tip to apply it and any runs can be easily wiped off before it sets up. once its applied it gives the edges a darker final finish.

So, on to the actual build. When I assembled the diff, I used a exacto knife to take the flashing off any of the plastic pieces. I also use the knife to take the edges off the gears putting a very slight bevel on the backside of all the gears. I also scrap the backside of the gears to remove any additional flashing. I use the appropriate sized tap to pre-tap all the diff screws. This makes it very easy to assemble the case halves together and as long as you don't over tighten the screws you'll be able to rebuild the diff multiple times without wrecking the plastic screw holes. I use Losi green grease on all the o-rings and coat the gear backs, diff gasket, and the outdrives. I chose to start with 5k diff oil, AE is the brand I use.

Since my fingers are now coated with grease and oil, I jumped to building the shocks. I was very curious to see these tapered bore shocks and see how they actually work. I compared the shock bodies to the previous short BB shocks, and they are the same length. The build process is as per the instructions, note to make sure the ring in the piston is on the bottom. (For those unfamiliar with the VBC pistons, the little grove on the bottom actually helps channel any extra air out from the bottom of the shock if any air gets trapped there, makes for a nice shock) So on to the bore, they are definitely machined now, where the old shocks where black anodized inside these are very smooth and shiny. To the naked eye the tapper isn't really apparent, until you put the shock shaft/piston int the shock body. When the piston is at shock bottom there is slight gap between the the piston and the shock wall. I dumped my oil of choosing into the shocks (AE again) and after letting them sit for a bit, I did the normal stroke to get the air up and out. This is where the tapper becomes more apparent, as after a couple strokes there was virtually no bubbles coming up. I think this is the first time that I built a new set of shocks that didn't require several oil and bleeds before they where void of air. A very nice surprise, and the shocks are very smooth as well.

My build has no rhyme to reason as far as the manual goes, so if your following I jump all over the place. I guess its because I've built so many of these, that I save the areas I feel are the least fun to do till the last. This is usually the oily parts, but as you can see I did these first, doh. Well, I jumped into the spool. I did numerous swapping around and rotating outdrives, finally finding one side that fit decent. The other side I had to knock a little anodizing off as it kept getting stuck in the spool, no biggie, till I tried to put the bearings on. If I put the bearing on the spool, the outdrive was slightly off so you couldn't put the outdrive in the spool. If I put the bearing on the outdrive it wouldn't mate up to the spool. I finally got it together, but I'm not pleased with the final product, so I won't elaborate on my final assembly, but there where a lot of F bombs. Thankfully VBC has acknowledged this issue, so I just have to wait for the rectified parts. (Mine works, but its not pretty, lol)

Next up the suspension. Due to the other guys comments, I trial fit the suspension bridges, less the arms, with the suspension pins, and there is no way that the stock suspension pins will fit on the chassis as is. I ended up taking about 1mm off the suspension pin. The I re-fit it to the chassis, putting a felt pin mark on the pin, and tried to rotate the pin just to make sure there was no tight fit to that assembly. Due to the shorter pin, naturally once the arm is installed you won't be able to use all the wheelbase spacers. I ended up leaving one of the 1mm spacers out and used a 0.03mm shim in place to take up the slack. A funny thing about this, as Dennis and I had discussed the suspension mounts on previous models, and had considered getting some custom chassis made, but we wanted to shorten the gap between the bridges, as we felt that this would help eliminate bent suspension pins. Well I guess someone else decided it was a good idea as well, but forgot to shorten the pins. I'm hoping VBC will supply the newer kits with shorter pins and this won't be a issue any longer.

I probably should add, that the instruction book is merely a suggestion and pictorial view, but chances are that none of the spacers or link lengths will probably apply. I suspect the instructions are a product of copy and paste, but where not proofed before they went to the printer. I looked today, on the web site, (10/11/2017) as Victor said that the online instructions will be updated, but it hasn't happened yet, so check back there, if you need better directions.

The plastics that the bearings sit in are quite a bit harder and the tolerances are tighter, so as Tyree said, using a axle and a washer to pull the bearings into place is well advised. Very little slop once they are finally seated, which is nice. Any of the plastics that require a screw and or other inserted into them I pre-tap just to make the job easier and less likelihood of wrecking a hole in the plastic. I do wish that they supplied bearing crushes with the cars, but I don't seem many if any that do.

The motor mount is something else with all the different tuning options on it. A couple of things should be noted here. The mount itself is about 0.50mm lower than previous mounts. With that, If you run a 110 spur gear it pretty much sits flush with the bottom of the chassis. I don't think you can get a much bigger spur gear in the car, but the for and aft adjustment of the motor appears to be bigger. I believe the max tooth count is 160 for this car, but I'm not sure what the minimum is just yet. More on the mount, the 5 option holes at the back require 0.50mm spacers in the 4 parallel holes and the most rear hole is milled for a 1mm spacer. The option holes on the mount allow the following, the rear most holes, the 4 parallel holes if used will help the side bite of the back of the car, more screws will bite harder, less will loosen the car up. The forward mount holes will effect the steering of the car. Using the rearmost screws will add to the steering of the car, the more the screws are put ahead in the mount, the less reactive the steering will be. Another motor mount item, the previous models fan mount will work, although if you use a WTF trumpet fan it will sit right on the chassis, rather than float, so this could also effect your wiring, so just check before you hurt your wires. In the instructions they recommend using a button head screw to hold the idler pulley assembly in place, but I use a flat head screw, as it seems to center the shaft better.

For my D09, I found the car worked best using the 2mm or the 2.5mm brace that runs between the motor mount and the steering servo mount. This car is no different, but one thing to note, after every run I will loosen those 2 screws and the re-tighten them, as I have found that part will hold a bit of a tweak in the car. Doing this just keeps the car flat and consistent.

The steering rack is pretty straight forward, and its nice to see that the steering limiter is now actually functional. one thing to note here is, in your washers and spacers you'll find 2 thin shims that will fit on your stub axles. I don't use them there, but they will also fit the standoffs for the steering arms, use them there, as without, the arms will actually move up a bit when throw is applied to them. This just takes out the slack there.

As stated previously, the rear roll bar ball end is too long for the depth that is in the arm, there is enough material in the arm that drill those holes slightly deeper are not a issue. Its either that or trim the stud on the ball end, or get shorter ones. I opted to just drill the hole. Since we are on the topic of the suspension arms, these arm are totally different then the previous models arms. The pickup points for the shock mounts are in different locations. The inserts look to be well surrounded by material, so I don't think they will be a weak point, also the insert material seems to be a more pliable material, so they should last longer and feel smoother than the previous configuration. The other thing about the inserts are that you now can have them either in the short or long arm setting, this will give you more lower roll center and width options.

The front end is not unique, but somehow VBC has made this front end to be pretty darn slop free and strong. I have tried to physically over rotate the steering hubs to see if they will hit arms. sway bar links or bend DJC, and this thing would need a pretty catastrophic crash to effect any of those components. (Sorry I doubted you Lucas)

The car, all in all, is one very nice car, they actually out did themselves on this one. Bringing a lot of new things to this platform and addressing some of the old issues. The statement of the the car being about 80% new is very true. I don't have a lot of track time on the car, but so far, the adjustment availability seems to work on the car, and it has very good corner speed. The shocks seem to keep the car planted better and it feels smooth to drive, more time will tell, but so far, its a good performer.
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Old 11-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #67
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...There was no real direction for the battery mount hardware, just a incomplete drawing.
Just completed mine and it's a rather unique build. My battery is a R1 Euros and I had to make several adjustments to make it fit.

The provided spacers from the motor mount and servo were changed for 4.5mm worth of shims and a button head screw, and the screws for the battery holder tabs have 7mm worth of shims. The result is satisfactory but there is 2mm of forward/backward movement in the battery cause there's no adjustment for that direction. I know Yokomo make a non slip pad for their battery holders so I'll be getting one of those.

Truthfully, I feel the front holder is a Tad too far forward cause when the battery is up against that block there's only fractions of a millimeter between the battery and the front steering arm.

Edit: Just built the shocks... Very nice! They seemed to be machined really well, the inside is polished to a fine finish, and overall they were fairly easy to screw together even with a bit of oil on the fingers. I was lucky that my shock shaft holding tool was 9mm so I used that to get the 9mm required spacing.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:06 AM   #68
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VBC Racing sent us the replacement parts.

All D10 kits we have will be shipped with replacement Spool shaft, outdrive and Kawada spurgear just in case it has issues.




https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...asp?p_id=13076

FYI, Thanks.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:18 AM   #69
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So i got my D10 kit and have it built ready for setup station but as there is no setup sheets available what would the suggested base droop etc be for a low grip track that is free flowing with a little technical section in the middle. im running the CF chasis with the rear brace
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:46 AM   #70
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nice car, but i would prefer a front C-block two screws/bolts supporting front steering axle hubs. i just don't like the idea of one bolt on the bottom. lot of fore and aft torque placed there
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:01 AM   #71
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It is possible to run c-hubs on the car.
I've been sitting in on Gary's test sessions with his d10. It is fast and looks good. My fast lap was a tenth better than his with his d09, But with the d10, he's 1.5 tenths faster than me.
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:10 AM   #72
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nice car, but i would prefer a front C-block two screws/bolts supporting front steering axle hubs. i just don't like the idea of one bolt on the bottom. lot of fore and aft torque placed there
They took the design from the schumacher mi5/mi6 I never had any issue with it Iím sure this one will be just fine
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Old 11-19-2017, 01:13 AM   #73
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Default Build Part 2 and Club Race Testing

Alright, that took much longer than anticipated. Here we go:

rear hub, reminds me of a more standardized design. bearings fit very tight, don't think you can get one out without damaging a race.


One of the pin cushions was too big to fit smoothly in the outdrive, quick sanding with 300 and 800 grit, good to go.


Turns out I can't fit my rear motor fan without removing the brace, so off it comes.
Sanded the rear hinge pins, and rear shims are 0.5 instead of 1.


Machining of the steering knuckles could use more finesse, I chose to build them opposite of the manual with the carbon underneath, and flipped the hub mount upside down to raise the knuckle and steering link.



Coming along with the servo mouse and all the links setup. Note the lower arm front shock mount set screw does not go in all the way, the holes are a bit shallow, and the rear arms the same for the sway bar ball ends at the bottom.


Nothing odd about the shocks, just some good expected progressives. I chose the same shock oil as my D09 setup, knowing it would have less dampening for our new local black carpet.


Battery mount, used a few extra shims and longer screws to make it work, and a 2mm shim to move the battery forward. I found no issue with having the battery posts at the rear of the car, no rubbing whatsoever.



Dont forget to trim the front bumper overhang or you'll be scraping buildup and carpet off of it.


Old and new together


Track Testing and Results
I used my D09 setup as a start point for toe inserts and roll centre shims.
  • The D10 kit shims for upper camber links remains unchanged
  • 2mm droop over ride height front and rear seemed to work as well as it did for the D09
  • 110 spur gear is too big for the car, will fail ride height tech.
  • Used kit silver front and blue rear springs, car felt better when tested against my D09
  • felt more planted entry and mid corner, maybe due to the extra front end weight?
  • actually 2-4 tenths faster than the old car on virtually the same setup

Awaiting blank setup sheet to fill one out.
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Old 11-19-2017, 09:57 AM   #74
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Extra front end weight? Isn't the front end even lighter on the D10? That's what the promo video said.
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Old 11-20-2017, 02:52 AM   #75
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Extra front end weight? Isn't the front end even lighter on the D10? That's what the promo video said.
Not sure what the weight difference is.

I missed a detail of running a full sized front servo right now as extra weight. Car at 1389 outperformed my D09 at 1360ish
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