Yes, 2mm riser in the back and the optional c and d block to obtain the correct geometry in the rear. Also added 50 gram to the rear.

Still amazed how good this car is. Tekno, you need to launch a 2wd carpet edition now also :-D

Quick question... I don't have ready access to, and can't find the details in the part descriptions: TKR6600 AND TKR 6599 (Front and Rear Center shafts). I'm looking for the length in MM.. Thanks!

Posted this in the Facebook group as an answer to a question:

"FR = 129 and RR = 48 according to my crappy pittsburgh caliper."

That's pin to pin.

Speaking of a rear 48mm shaft... does anyone know of a compatible brand that uses a CVD center shaft that might fit?

Per Matt's setup, I'm not running rear braces and I threw the rear center shaft during open practice last week... fortunately I was able to find the shaft on the track, but would feel better replacing it with a CVD if possible. Kinda wish I could still get InTech parts, they had the coolest design on their CVD's where they used coiled springs to capture the pins, no fuss with any set screws, amen

put in one or two o-rings in the rear and mid diff Outdrives to stop the shaft play, that might help.

Are the optional C and D blocks mainly used to adjust roll? Im a little confused on what they are for. I was told they are to be used on lose dirt conditions and then I see people using them on carpet.

I'll give it a shot... I cased a ramp just behind the center diff, right at the sweet spot to get the chassis to flex, if this becomes a recurring problem, then I'll look into upgrading to CVD's more seriously, thanks

You will need to remove the plastic mount and get the Tekno RC Center Diff Top Plate and Fan Mount part #TKR6635C Hope this helps! Thank you- Chris

Just an FYI for those that still need aluminum shock caps: Tekno's website is showing them as in stock and ready to ship as I type this.

https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6712...lack-ano-2pcs/

How do I get to this wiki page, with all the information about this buggy?

You have to open the full site in desktop mode on your phone and then the Wiki is at the top of the page. Or just view the wiki from a desktop/laptop.

It's at the top of the page, "Click here to display Full Wiki"

Decided to go with the EB410 for 13.5 racing I have the electronics already -
Putting together a shopping list so far I have -
LXFSXM Tekno RC Multi-Purpose Shock/Ball End Tool Aluminum
LXEPEM Tekno RC Turnbuckle Wrench 4mm/5mm Hardened Steel
LXATLB Associated Pinion Gear 48P 29T
TKR5253B Tekno RC Aluminum Servo Horn Double Hole 25T Spline

My Electronics
Savox SC-1258TG
Tekin Gen2 Redline Brushless Sensored 13.5 Turn Motor
Tekin RS Gen 2 Esc

Any recommendations? Spare parts to order?

I would add in an 1/8" drill bit to bore out the a-arms instead of getting a 3mm reamer. Works the same and should be much cheaper at your local hardware store.

get some extra 3x20mm button head screws because it is recommended to replace the 3x14mm screws in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.


As for spares, it's a good idea to get front/rear inner hingepins as they can bend on hard crashes. I also keep front arms, c-hubs, steering spindles, and shock towers. Preferably carbon shock towers. Also I highly recommend one of the center diff cap options. Either from Tekno or Diggity. This is supposed to help prevent stripped spurs from a loose mesh.

Is anyone else seeing the rear spring cups rubbing the rear drive shafts? Just took mine out for the first time today on the box stock setup with a 13.5 motor and was faster than a guy with a 6.5 on his associated. This buggy is very easy to drive.