1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
09-28-2017 | 09:10 AM
#1606
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,269
And so the r/c car world goes round and round. I find it amusing that buggies becoming road cars, and road cars becoming buggies is seemingly a common thing. It's not just Tamiya.
What makes it a budget? Why's it not a serious racer? How does any of Tamiya's marketing material indicate that any of that might not be the case? The sheer fact that there's a "upgraded" version of the buggy says something about what Tamiya thinks the buyer should think about the car.
Did you know where the car came from? With Tamiya models that starts to be very important. Knowing the root of cars, will tell you what parts might be compatible, and might give up upgrade paths.
Now those questions are facetious, the reason I go into that detail, is I wanted to cover the things I didn't know when I bought it. I knew it was budget, but ~why~ is it budget? What makes it cheap? What are it's failings? What traps are you getting yourself into?
Those are things that matter for ~most~ cars. For example on the TC4, the chassis strips screw holes easily, so you need to be ~careful~. The stock drive shafts are a liability, and I broke both of mine in the first day a the track. The servo saver, doesn't work, and should be disabled. The battery strap is adjusted by screw height, and you should start out with the battery forward. The axle drive pins are mechanical fuses, those should be retained as roll pins.
That sort of stuff, isn't usually compiled. Even here, there's a 2-300 page thread with that sort of information, but reading 3000 posts isn't something that's nice to suggest to someone.
I've got a couple other articles posted, you might want to try one or two of those. :-)
That said, when I get around to it, there's going to be a TC 7.1 and TC4 articles coming. You can expect just as thorough of an explanation there. Though, being higher quality cars, I suspect those articles will be a lot shorter, or will emphasize history more than how to deal with the car.
What makes it a budget? Why's it not a serious racer? How does any of Tamiya's marketing material indicate that any of that might not be the case? The sheer fact that there's a "upgraded" version of the buggy says something about what Tamiya thinks the buyer should think about the car.
Did you know where the car came from? With Tamiya models that starts to be very important. Knowing the root of cars, will tell you what parts might be compatible, and might give up upgrade paths.
Now those questions are facetious, the reason I go into that detail, is I wanted to cover the things I didn't know when I bought it. I knew it was budget, but ~why~ is it budget? What makes it cheap? What are it's failings? What traps are you getting yourself into?
Those are things that matter for ~most~ cars. For example on the TC4, the chassis strips screw holes easily, so you need to be ~careful~. The stock drive shafts are a liability, and I broke both of mine in the first day a the track. The servo saver, doesn't work, and should be disabled. The battery strap is adjusted by screw height, and you should start out with the battery forward. The axle drive pins are mechanical fuses, those should be retained as roll pins.
That sort of stuff, isn't usually compiled. Even here, there's a 2-300 page thread with that sort of information, but reading 3000 posts isn't something that's nice to suggest to someone.
I've got a couple other articles posted, you might want to try one or two of those. :-)
That said, when I get around to it, there's going to be a TC 7.1 and TC4 articles coming. You can expect just as thorough of an explanation there. Though, being higher quality cars, I suspect those articles will be a lot shorter, or will emphasize history more than how to deal with the car.
I think we all know why it is a budget chassis but with that said for a guy who just wants to have fun with it and has no intention of doing any serious racing it makes a lot of sense. I bought my regular TT02 for $70 shipped NIP, I spent about $50 bucks on what I thought were important upgrades, so for about $120 I have a super fun car which has proven to be bullet proof over 50 full packs (12+ hours of run time) on a Blinky 17.5T set-up. I have spent some time playing with shocks and springs and I have a car that runs great and seems to handle well on my makeshift track. I for one think that it offers a lot of bang for the buck.
Cheers,
Jim
09-30-2017 | 09:07 AM
#1607
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 130
My 7-year old son wants to learn driving. He is already doing offroad on my old Losi XXX but he is really willing to progress. We have a great touring track very close to our place. My elder 11-year-old son and I have Sakura XI Sport which is a great cat but not the perfect car to begin with.
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
09-30-2017 | 09:16 AM
#1608
My 7-year old son wants to learn driving. He is already doing offroad on my old Losi XXX but he is really willing to progress. We have a great touring track very close to our place. My elder 11-year-old son and I have Sakura XI Sport which is a great cat but not the perfect car to begin with.
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
I'm a big Porsche fan personally but for racing I'd avoid the RSR body. The kit wheels and tyres are uselsss on a track and no one makes good quality 26 and 30 mm tyres for racing. So you would need 24 mm and those will look silly under that body.
09-30-2017 | 01:35 PM
#1609
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,269
It's a pretty durable and forgiving car and parts are cheap and readily available.
I'm a big Porsche fan personally but for racing I'd avoid the RSR body. The kit wheels and tyres are uselsss on a track and no one makes good quality 26 and 30 mm tyres for racing. So you would need 24 mm and those will look silly under that body.
I'm a big Porsche fan personally but for racing I'd avoid the RSR body. The kit wheels and tyres are uselsss on a track and no one makes good quality 26 and 30 mm tyres for racing. So you would need 24 mm and those will look silly under that body.
I have found the TT02 to be very durable and as Raman said parts are easy to come by and cheap.
Cheers
09-30-2017 | 02:04 PM
#1610
My 7-year old son wants to learn driving. He is already doing offroad on my old Losi XXX but he is really willing to progress. We have a great touring track very close to our place. My elder 11-year-old son and I have Sakura XI Sport which is a great cat but not the perfect car to begin with.
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
Hence my question L How durable/robust is an entry-level TT-02 like Porshe 911 RSR?
His driving will not be perfect first but he needs to learn!
10-01-2017 | 07:37 AM
#1612
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 130
Does regular 2S lipo size (not shorty) fit in a standard TT-02 using out of the box strap?
What about adding the bearings during the initial build?
Does the kit come with servo saver?
What about adding the bearings during the initial build?
Does the kit come with servo saver?
Last edited by julieng; 10-01-2017 at 08:14 AM.
10-01-2017 | 08:35 AM
#1613
2. Get bearings for sure
3. servo saver included is crap. Pick up a X-ray (best) kimborough, or Tamiya
10-02-2017 | 08:08 AM
#1614
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
The $100 for a TT02, that comes with a motor, ESC, and a Tamiya quality body?... that's a steal. Bang for the buck is high on these. :-)
"what makes it a cheap car" is something I did not cover in my article. I should do that, as I have a followup I need to do too. Part of it being "cheap" is also what makes it so durable.
Bearings for sure, but don't buy tamiyas. Get rubber sealed ones if you can, and don't spend more than $20 for the set.
The heavy duty tamiya servo saver is $9-10 on the usual websites. As long as you've got a strong servo, it's a good choice.
Last edited by Nerobro; 10-02-2017 at 08:56 AM. Reason: close is not closed.
10-02-2017 | 08:20 AM
#1615
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 130
"We" might know. But I can tell you that "I" didn't know when I was first getting into R/C.
The $100 for a TT02, that comes with a motor, ESC, and a Tamiya quality body?... that's a steal. Bang for the buck is high on these. :-)
"what makes it a cheap car" is something I did not cover in my article. I should do that, as I have a followup I need to do too. Part of it being "cheap" is also what makes it so durable.
I use some close cell foam under my battery strap. The drilling idea is a good one, but is a permanant change to the battery posts.
Bearings for sure, but don't buy tamiyas. Get rubber sealed ones if you can, and don't spend more than $20 for the set.
The heavy duty tamiya servo saver is $9-10 on the usual websites. As long as you've got a strong servo, it's a good choice.
The $100 for a TT02, that comes with a motor, ESC, and a Tamiya quality body?... that's a steal. Bang for the buck is high on these. :-)
"what makes it a cheap car" is something I did not cover in my article. I should do that, as I have a followup I need to do too. Part of it being "cheap" is also what makes it so durable.
I use some close cell foam under my battery strap. The drilling idea is a good one, but is a permanant change to the battery posts.
Bearings for sure, but don't buy tamiyas. Get rubber sealed ones if you can, and don't spend more than $20 for the set.
The heavy duty tamiya servo saver is $9-10 on the usual websites. As long as you've got a strong servo, it's a good choice.
So I will chase baring + alu front knuckles.
My son has decided to go for LaFerrari.
He is 7 years old and is not going to do compete soon. However, I would imagine the disaster with my Sakura Xi Sport after 1-2 lap.
I also think onroad is great for him to learn compared to offroad as he will spend less time with the car bottom up + walking and can spend more time driving.
10-13-2017 | 04:42 PM
#1616
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 92
From: Calif.
Hi guys I am building a TT-02 as a Rally Car what would be a good starting point for diff. grease/fluid? I purchased the 99 Subi Kit by Tamyia. Thanks for any info for setup, also bought a set of Tamyia Hop-Up shocks, they aren't what I thought they would be but better than the friction shocks. Also Alum. shaft and cups and
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
10-16-2017 | 08:10 PM
#1617
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 667
From: Mooreland, IN
Hi guys I am building a TT-02 as a Rally Car what would be a good starting point for diff. grease/fluid? I purchased the 99 Subi Kit by Tamyia. Thanks for any info for setup, also bought a set of Tamyia Hop-Up shocks, they aren't what I thought they would be but better than the friction shocks. Also Alum. shaft and cups and
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
10-17-2017 | 05:36 AM
#1618
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,269
Hi guys I am building a TT-02 as a Rally Car what would be a good starting point for diff. grease/fluid? I purchased the 99 Subi Kit by Tamyia. Thanks for any info for setup, also bought a set of Tamyia Hop-Up shocks, they aren't what I thought they would be but better than the friction shocks. Also Alum. shaft and cups and
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
alum. Motor mount for now. I run a XV01 but wanted to try a shaft driven car.
While I am not running my car on dirt I do run on totally unprepared tarmac which is pretty dusty and slick at times and 500K seems to be a good happy medium, I get a bit of torque steer when it is really slippery but it is nothing you can't live with.
One thing I did find is that in the high ground clearance mode there is some significant bump steer. You may be able to get rid of some of that by shimming the ball ends on the steering arms. I went to the low ground clearance setting and was still able to get 9-10MM of ride height and the car handles much better.
Cheers,
Jim
10-17-2017 | 06:48 AM
#1619
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
The 200k I have in my front diff, leaks "a little" But it takes lots of packs for it to come out. I've had to refill it once, in a year. so I think It's ok. ... and I'm running it in a car with a 13.5 turn motor.
10-18-2017 | 11:37 PM
#1620
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 210
From: Bothell, WA
Finally got my hands on a hardened white chassis and the year racing adjustable motor mount. Now I am running RRP 48dp Pro Spur and Pinion gears on a 25.5 for scale spec racing. Only driven it a few laps and had some setup issues that led me to turn to the TRF418. I'll get the setup dialed in and run this guy pretty hard this winter on carpet