24mm only

Original TT02 comes with 26mm, do I need to change wheel hub to say 7mm to adjust the width when switching to 24mm wheels?

I still have a set of 26mm wheels...will definitely try 24mm after that

No.. if compare a 0° offset 26 mm wheel and 24 mm wheel.. the difference in width tends to be on the inner side

Hey guys,
Question for you. I have about 20 full packs (5 hours run time) through my TT02 now and in the last couple of packs I have started to get an fairly loud intermittent clicking. It is hard to pin point where it is but it sounds like it is in the rear. I took the gear cover off and the spur/pinion (64P) were a bit dirty but it did not look like there was any debris in there but I cleaned the gears with a toothbrush and lubed it with a drop or two of tri-flow. The out drives and drive shaft seem to be fine, I have not taken the diffs out as of yet but they are both smooth. Thoughts?

I imagine I will put another pack or two through it tonight and will see if cleaning the spur/pinion had any effect.


Cheers,
Jim

How loud is it
When you hear clicking? Full throttle/braking/closing throttle?
My TT02 got clicking sound when I start applying throttle slowly. I found that it's coming from the spur/shaft side as there's some kind of space in the rear gear box, when it start to spin then it will produce a clicking sound but just 1 time until full stop. I don't really look into it yet as it seems no harm...

If both the 24 and 26MM wheel are 0 offset then the 24MM wheel will offer 2MM (1MM each side) less track. In other words to get the same offset with a 24MM wheel as the 26MM you would need an 24MM wheel with a +1 offset.

Cheers,
Jim

Loud enough to hear it clearly 40' away....

When it clicks it does it anytime the car is in motion.

It is weird because it is intermittent but it does not seem to effect anything. I did notice some fore/aft play on the spur gear with the "High Speed Gear Set" and was wondering if that could be it.

I also wondered if it was something getting into the outdrives because it stopped after changing the battery and I shook debris out of the tub at the same time.

It is just annoying because the car is fairly quiet until the clicking starts.

I guess I could just keep running it until something fails

Cheers,
Jim

Check the diff ring gear and bevel gear backlash. If your diff has been installed 100% stock i.e., unshimmed (as opposed to putting a shim on the ring gear outdrive to adjust the backlash between bevel and diff) it may have worn enough to allow the odd click when the bevel jumps a gear tooth under hard acceleration. This will be more pronounced when the car has good traction as it'll feed the torque back into the transmission rather than simply wheelspinning it away.

Thanks for the feed back. The diff assembly is shimmed in the housing and, at least when it was built, had very little slop. With that said it may have "loosened" up a bit from usage.

I will run her tonight and see how it sounds with the cleaned and lubed spur/pinion. If the clicking persists I will open up the rear and dig a bit deeper.

Thanks all.

Cheers,
Jim

Check the gear lash between your pinion and spur. The Tamiya pinions are fairly soft and will start to wear quickly. They won't feel too bad when spinning by hand, but get loud when you speed them up.

Another thing to check is to pull the motor out completely the next time you hear a click and spin the spur by hand. Do you still hear the click? Do you feel a click? If not, then you probably have a spur/pinion issue. If you do still hear it, pull the center shaft and spin front and rear independently. Which one clicks? Etc... Work you way out until you find your issue.

Or, just wait! Eventually, whatever is clicking will fail.

OMG.....I am an idiot. So I a working from home today. The wife is in the city and the little man is stuck in traffic coming home from camp. Figured I would get in a pack or two. My car packs are down stairs so I grabbed one of my plane plane packs which I have a lot of but only a couple 2S packs. I had forgotten that I had bought two new 2S packs and had not reversed the Deans connector......Yup....big shot of fire and smoke......Dang it......

I just ordered a Hobby Wing Justock as a replacement but boy oh boy and I ticked right now.

Cheers,
Jim

We have all done that many times.

If it's the Tamiya TBLE-02S you can fix it! Open up the case and you will see a 1/4" copper circuit on the board that's burnt. Make a jumper from one end to the other and you're back in business

Yea, I tend to do it every 4-5 years and it always ticks me off. 25 years ago I started using Deans and never knew I had my Deans reversed till packs started coming with T plugs.

Good info on the Tamiya ESC, unfortunately it was a old Novak Havoc Pro ESC which I liked. I took it apart and fixing it is well above my pay grade.

Bought the Justock from Amazon (I know, I know) so it will be here on Friday and it was a few buck cheaper then any online hobby shop.

Cheers,
Jim

You are lucky that only the battery not other things on fire too...I always colour my wires so it can remind me the polarity

Reverse polarity on Novaks is hit and miss.. the original GTB would burn the capacitor.. so all you would need is to change it. Later ESC like the Havoc ..transistors are burned instantly.

Hobbywings I hear burn the capacitors too.. which is the way it should be..

They actually should all have protection from reverse polarity, period