It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.

That's 160 external temp.

The internal temp when your reach 160 externally is closer to 200.

Agreed, -i've ruined a few ...they were around 230 ish when they stopped working. I was learning about gearing when I did it ...fortunately was taking temp measurements frequently so I knew what the temp was when it probably went.

I am laughing about all this temp checking w/ the finger!!! ...what the heck.
I think if your bashing around in the street the finger is probably okay. But if your racing every 5-10 degrees difference can mean more speed via motor timing, gearing,etc .. I race my motor around 165ish ...they run great. I'd not know that temp w/ my finger though. 100 could feel like 135 or even 165 ...

...

Okay, I do have a quick question.

My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?

I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?

Well I run a spool up front on both of my tb03's and light oil in the rear hear diffs and I had a pretty consistent practice session with it. The rear end is still a bit tail happy when its pushed hard but I kind of prefer a little oversteer. I feel it's easier to correct during the turn.

Thanks EbbTide.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.

Raman, curious how you got the 911 GT3 to fit on the Type S.

That body is for short wheel base cars and the Type S is long wheel base. Would love to use that body if you can share your tips for fitting it.

After doing it for so many years you would be surprised how accurate a finger can be.

Cheers,
Jim

Has anyone tried the Low Friction SUS balls for the front arms? Last night I put two packs through the TT02 and I had very inconsistent steering, felt like the servo was not centering . I took a look at it this morning and found that there was a lot of friction in the steering which I found out was being caused from me tightening up the fasteners that go through the balls and into the hubs....I am sure this happened when I was trying to reduce slop in the front arms. I loosened them up a 1/4 turn and all is good now but wondering if the low friction version of the balls help at all. I did actually order them as I needed to get wheels and tires for the new body so I should have some feedback in the next week or so.

Cheers,
Jim

Hello All,
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.

Cheers,
Jim

You probably won't feel a difference but it is there and they're far more durable than the stock ones.

The better half is away so I got to put three packs through the TT02 this evening. After work I glued up the Ride 26MM Radial on none offset staggered wheels for the Rally body and gave them a go. The tires are significantly higher profile then the USGT spec tires I run on staggered offset wheels for the Porsche body. ibam not sure if the reduced track or traction accounts for it but the car now takes a very Porsche'esq stance in the turns lifting the inside front wheel at times. I also traction rolled it for the first time. I would say the ultimate traction is better on the street than the USGT tires but they are not as easy to drive. If you get power on oversteer the car tends swing, catch, and then swing hard in the opposite direction (Swedish flick), the USGT tires are much more progressive in that regard and easier to modulate the oversteer.

Tonight was super fun, I feel that I am learning to drive the car and am getting the set up a bit better. I am going to back off the gearing a bit, when I run it in front of the house I tend to keep if fairly close in, 50' straight, and the motor is pretty darn warm....way over the limit for my highly calibrated finger LOL.

Cheers,
Jim

Just installed some new parts on my Type S.....the updated suspension mounts and the rebound stoppers so now I can adjust droop.

I've also installed the torque tuned motor with 29t pinion. Combined with the 64t spur, the car is QUICK! TCS Watch out!!!!!

I dropped the gearing down to a FDR of 5.02 from the 4.33 I was running. The motor is running MUCH cooler then it was on the "short course" in front of the house.

I have also started on the Suzuki SX4 WRC body for a little rally action. The body is very nicely done and the stickers are pre cut which is a super nice touch. I am doing a bit of a quick and dirty job to represent a test car so it will not have the full livery on it....so far it is looking good.

Cheers,
Jim

I should share something that my buddy did. In an effort to stop the shock towers from coming loose, we drilled through the shock tower mounts on the diff covers, and through bolted the towers to the diff cover.

Our shock towers don't come loose anymore.