Tamiya TT02 Thread
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#1351
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Forgot to ask, I am running an old Novak Hovoc sport with a 17.5T Hovoc motor. I get about 10 minutes run time on a 4000mah pack geared around 4.35:1. With that said the motor is a bit warmer then I feel comfortable with according to my highly calibrated finger, right after the run I can keep my finger on the motor for about 5 seconds before it gets really uncomfortable. The ESC is only slightly warm. Do motor fans really help? Should I use the kit supplied mount?
The motor/ESC have thermal protection so I wonder if I am just being paranoid.....
Thanks.
The motor/ESC have thermal protection so I wonder if I am just being paranoid.....
Thanks.
#1352
with that said I have been using a finger to check motor temps for 25 years of flying high performance e-powered RC planes and I have yet to demag a motor from heat.
Cheers,
Jim
#1354
Cheers,
Jim
#1356
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
#1357
It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
The internal temp when your reach 160 externally is closer to 200.
#1358
It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
I am laughing about all this temp checking w/ the finger!!! ...what the heck.
I think if your bashing around in the street the finger is probably okay. But if your racing every 5-10 degrees difference can mean more speed via motor timing, gearing,etc .. I race my motor around 165ish ...they run great. I'd not know that temp w/ my finger though. 100 could feel like 135 or even 165 ...
...
Last edited by eR1c; 06-05-2017 at 12:55 PM.
#1359
Okay, I do have a quick question.
My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?
I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?
I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
#1360
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Okay, I do have a quick question.
My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?
I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?
I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
#1361
Thanks EbbTide.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.
#1362
That body is for short wheel base cars and the Type S is long wheel base. Would love to use that body if you can share your tips for fitting it.
#1363
#1364
Has anyone tried the Low Friction SUS balls for the front arms? Last night I put two packs through the TT02 and I had very inconsistent steering, felt like the servo was not centering . I took a look at it this morning and found that there was a lot of friction in the steering which I found out was being caused from me tightening up the fasteners that go through the balls and into the hubs....I am sure this happened when I was trying to reduce slop in the front arms. I loosened them up a 1/4 turn and all is good now but wondering if the low friction version of the balls help at all. I did actually order them as I needed to get wheels and tires for the new body so I should have some feedback in the next week or so.
Cheers,
Jim
Cheers,
Jim
#1365
Hello All,
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.
Cheers,
Jim
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.
Cheers,
Jim