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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 06-05-2017, 09:29 AM
  #1351  
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Originally Posted by LJH
Forgot to ask, I am running an old Novak Hovoc sport with a 17.5T Hovoc motor. I get about 10 minutes run time on a 4000mah pack geared around 4.35:1. With that said the motor is a bit warmer then I feel comfortable with according to my highly calibrated finger, right after the run I can keep my finger on the motor for about 5 seconds before it gets really uncomfortable. The ESC is only slightly warm. Do motor fans really help? Should I use the kit supplied mount?

The motor/ESC have thermal protection so I wonder if I am just being paranoid.....

Thanks.
your motor is not getting too hot if you can keep your finger on there five seconds. Regardless, get yourself a highly calibrated infrared temp gun and let your finger take a break lol
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:59 AM
  #1352  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
your motor is not getting too hot if you can keep your finger on there five seconds. Regardless, get yourself a highly calibrated infrared temp gun and let your finger take a break lol
I am telling you....my finger is pretty good

with that said I have been using a finger to check motor temps for 25 years of flying high performance e-powered RC planes and I have yet to demag a motor from heat.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:08 AM
  #1353  
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Originally Posted by LJH
I am telling you....my finger is pretty good

with that said I have been using a finger to check motor temps for 25 years of flying high performance e-powered RC planes and I have yet to demag a motor from heat.

Cheers,
Jim
That's probably because you're not even getting close to 160f using your finger as a temp guage lol. Which is good. I like to be on the safe side too.
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:23 AM
  #1354  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
That's probably because you're not even getting close to 160f using your finger as a temp guage lol. Which is good. I like to be on the safe side too.
I think that is probably about right, I know I am fairly comfortable at 130-140*, I am betting I am right around 150* give or take a couple. In the past I have used the 10 second rule and that has worked for me.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:28 AM
  #1355  
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Originally Posted by LJH
I think that is probably about right, I know I am fairly comfortable at 130-140*, I am betting I am right around 150* give or take a couple. In the past I have used the 10 second rule and that has worked for me.

Cheers,
Jim
lol well at least I'll feel comfortable buying used electronics from you. You could probably even gear your motor higher for more top speed if you wanted before temps started to be an issue
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:20 AM
  #1356  
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It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:37 PM
  #1357  
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
That's 160 external temp.

The internal temp when your reach 160 externally is closer to 200.
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:44 PM
  #1358  
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It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.
Agreed, -i've ruined a few ...they were around 230 ish when they stopped working. I was learning about gearing when I did it ...fortunately was taking temp measurements frequently so I knew what the temp was when it probably went.

I am laughing about all this temp checking w/ the finger!!! ...what the heck.
I think if your bashing around in the street the finger is probably okay. But if your racing every 5-10 degrees difference can mean more speed via motor timing, gearing,etc .. I race my motor around 165ish ...they run great. I'd not know that temp w/ my finger though. 100 could feel like 135 or even 165 ...

...

Last edited by eR1c; 06-05-2017 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:47 PM
  #1359  
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Okay, I do have a quick question.

My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?

I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:59 PM
  #1360  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Okay, I do have a quick question.

My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?

I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?
Well I run a spool up front on both of my tb03's and light oil in the rear hear diffs and I had a pretty consistent practice session with it. The rear end is still a bit tail happy when its pushed hard but I kind of prefer a little oversteer. I feel it's easier to correct during the turn.
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Old 06-05-2017, 01:19 PM
  #1361  
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Thanks EbbTide.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.

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Old 06-06-2017, 01:08 AM
  #1362  
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Originally Posted by Raman
On Sunday, I used the TT02-S in USGT with the Porsche 911 GT3 body. This was a scale race where we had 1 qualifier, and 3 mains.
Raman, curious how you got the 911 GT3 to fit on the Type S.

That body is for short wheel base cars and the Type S is long wheel base. Would love to use that body if you can share your tips for fitting it.
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:53 AM
  #1363  
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Originally Posted by eR1c

I am laughing about all this temp checking w/ the finger!!! ...what the heck.
After doing it for so many years you would be surprised how accurate a finger can be.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:30 AM
  #1364  
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Has anyone tried the Low Friction SUS balls for the front arms? Last night I put two packs through the TT02 and I had very inconsistent steering, felt like the servo was not centering . I took a look at it this morning and found that there was a lot of friction in the steering which I found out was being caused from me tightening up the fasteners that go through the balls and into the hubs....I am sure this happened when I was trying to reduce slop in the front arms. I loosened them up a 1/4 turn and all is good now but wondering if the low friction version of the balls help at all. I did actually order them as I needed to get wheels and tires for the new body so I should have some feedback in the next week or so.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:38 PM
  #1365  
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Hello All,
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.

Cheers,
Jim
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