Tekin RSX Thread
#1231
#1232
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 128
On the throttle frequency, I am unable to get the esc to go below 6Khz.
What happens is I set 9Khz through the hot wire and it loads into the esc. However, when I calibrate to the remote, the throttle frequency always goes back to 6Khz.
What am I doing wrong? The reverting back to 6Khz is only happening once I calibrate to the remote.
I am trying to run 9Khz on the throttle frequency with throttle minimum set to 25. Is that affecting the throttle frequency?
What happens is I set 9Khz through the hot wire and it loads into the esc. However, when I calibrate to the remote, the throttle frequency always goes back to 6Khz.
What am I doing wrong? The reverting back to 6Khz is only happening once I calibrate to the remote.
I am trying to run 9Khz on the throttle frequency with throttle minimum set to 25. Is that affecting the throttle frequency?
#1233
On the throttle frequency, I am unable to get the esc to go below 6Khz.
What happens is I set 9Khz through the hot wire and it loads into the esc. However, when I calibrate to the remote, the throttle frequency always goes back to 6Khz.
What am I doing wrong? The reverting back to 6Khz is only happening once I calibrate to the remote.
I am trying to run 9Khz on the throttle frequency with throttle minimum set to 25. Is that affecting the throttle frequency?
What happens is I set 9Khz through the hot wire and it loads into the esc. However, when I calibrate to the remote, the throttle frequency always goes back to 6Khz.
What am I doing wrong? The reverting back to 6Khz is only happening once I calibrate to the remote.
I am trying to run 9Khz on the throttle frequency with throttle minimum set to 25. Is that affecting the throttle frequency?
Kudos to you for finding something no one else was able to.

For the short term, anyone with V255 software if you raise your Throttle Freq. above 6khz, make sure you dont do a radio calibrate after saving the setting. Do the calibration before making the change. Its not in relation to throttle minimum or any other adjustment being made.
We are going to be releasing a new software version here shortly which takes care of the problem as well as adds a few more cool things to make the products better.
#1234
A while ago I committed the horrible sin of plugging a battery in backwards. A single puff of smoke came out of the esc and just as soon unplugged it. I corrected the problem and miraculously the esc turned on and functioned well.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
#1235
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
A while ago I committed the horrible sin of plugging a battery in backwards. A single puff of smoke came out of the esc and just as soon unplugged it. I corrected the problem and miraculously the esc turned on and functioned well.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
#1236
A while ago I committed the horrible sin of plugging a battery in backwards. A single puff of smoke came out of the esc and just as soon unplugged it. I corrected the problem and miraculously the esc turned on and functioned well.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
The truck has been sitting for a year and I just got it out to try and sell. I took it for a test run and it ran ok. There was some motor clogging, so I unplugged and re plugged in the sensor wire and for good measure, put in a brand new tekin capacitor.
Plugged in a battery and turned on the esc. Cogging seemed to be gone! Then tried a better battery (higher C rating and mah) and the esc wouldn't even turn on. Charged the battery, but it only took a few minutes on the charger. Plugged it in, the esc turned on, then when applied some throttle, esc turned off and when released throttle, it came back on again. Then when I would turn the wheel, it is like the system is "browning" out. So I am scared the BEC is just about fried. Am I right, or am I not thinking of something. No shorts anywhere, all solder joints are good and battery polarity is correct. Problem seems to be worse with my two "race" packs than my practice packs.
Thanks for any and all help, and sorry for long post.
#1238
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Yep. The cost you see on the website is a 'worst case' price to completely replace it. Many times it is much less than that if a single board is all that needs replacing. You can always send it in and ask for the cost before they do any repairs and you are just out shipping if you want it returned to you.
#1239
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 427
From: Chicago
Kudos to you for finding something no one else was able to. 
For the short term, anyone with V255 software if you raise your Throttle Freq. above 6khz, make sure you dont do a radio calibrate after saving the setting. Do the calibration before making the change. Its not in relation to throttle minimum or any other adjustment being made.
We are going to be releasing a new software version here shortly which takes care of the problem as well as adds a few more cool things to make the products better.

For the short term, anyone with V255 software if you raise your Throttle Freq. above 6khz, make sure you dont do a radio calibrate after saving the setting. Do the calibration before making the change. Its not in relation to throttle minimum or any other adjustment being made.
We are going to be releasing a new software version here shortly which takes care of the problem as well as adds a few more cool things to make the products better.
#1240
Well, what about this? I was in a point series and either before or during I switched over to 255. At first everything was fine but after doing normal recalibration I noticed a big difference in car reaction. And sure enough after just checking each of my 3 cars all are at 6 not the original 10 setting. When can we trust Tekin's settings again? Do we need to plug in the PC before each run.
Hotwire doesn't seem to automatically read the ESC's settings (I can't remember if it did it in the previous version)
You have to load your current settings first before making and uploading new settings or you'll lose your previous settings
#1241
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 47
Got my new RSX installed and having issues. It had version 255 installed, but when plugged in it did an update and went to version 250. Same issue with my RS2 and RS Spec. I've uninstalled hotwire and reinstalled it. I notice when it updates it puts the options back on main page then removes them and update reverts to 250. Need help please.
#1242
Got my new RSX installed and having issues. It had version 255 installed, but when plugged in it did an update and went to version 250. Same issue with my RS2 and RS Spec. I've uninstalled hotwire and reinstalled it. I notice when it updates it puts the options back on main page then removes them and update reverts to 250. Need help please.
#1243
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 47
Download the 255 installer for your PC from Tekin - HotWire 2.0 Programming Device
#1244
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 101
Just installed a new RSX this weekend. I wasn't sure if I'd need the fan or not (running 8.5 motor in a 2wd SCT), but found that the holes in the ESC are bored a little too wide for the included screws. I contacted Tekin and they said I probably wouldn't need the fan at all but they are aware of the issue and would replace my ESC if I wanted to send it in.
Just wanted to pass along the info in case anyone else experienced this or if anyone comes here looking for the issue.
Just wanted to pass along the info in case anyone else experienced this or if anyone comes here looking for the issue.
#1245
Just installed a new RSX this weekend. I wasn't sure if I'd need the fan or not (running 8.5 motor in a 2wd SCT), but found that the holes in the ESC are bored a little too wide for the included screws. I contacted Tekin and they said I probably wouldn't need the fan at all but they are aware of the issue and would replace my ESC if I wanted to send it in.
Just wanted to pass along the info in case anyone else experienced this or if anyone comes here looking for the issue.
Just wanted to pass along the info in case anyone else experienced this or if anyone comes here looking for the issue.
We will replace the case on those units that have fan shroud holes that are too large.



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