In my experience most Tamiya kits like a little slop. I have not shimmed my steering and it handles great. I did however replace the stock outdrive dog bones with jointed axles.

I tried my kids w/ RC cars, then crawlers, etc.. when they were younger (like 3-7) ...it was mostly a crash fest. Just in the last 4 or 5 months my son started saying he wanted to go to RC events w/ me (as I go a few times a month). I still was cautious and really didn't take it too serious, yet after several months of him asking me (he's now 10, almost 11) I decided to take him to the track for a practice session. He loved it and told me that if he could he'd do this all day long! So now 3 practice session under his belt he is ready for his first race this coming weekend. It is pretty cool, as now I can take him w/ me. I dedicate a lot of time to his football (he loves football), but now its great that he can start to partake in my hobby. ...I have an 8 year old boy also, yet he's not interested and not really ready. I'll give him a few years.

If your son isn't interested or its too difficult you can always try when he's a little older. I let my son come to me this time ...so it is pretty cool. I now have a buddy to share my race tent with! (reminds me I got to pick up a second chair this week).

It looks like he sold through them...

Here is the link to his ebay store....

JK RC uk | eBay Stores

I will post part numbers when I get to my desktop with my spreadsheet

Here are part numbers.....

51297 - A-Arms
51352 - Front spindles (Tamiya calls them front uprights)
51293 - Castors (C-Hubs)
9008170 - Rear Bearing carriers

In the Type S B Bag you get the Type S shock towers, the hinge pins, camber blocks (F and R), outdrives, dogbones and wheel axles. Normally you would have to by the Carbon Fiber Stays (about 22 bucks each front and back) and the Type S Suspension set (45 bucks) in addition to dogbones and wheel axles and all the hardware needed to mount everything.

According to the Tamiya website I should have my A-Arms and rear bearing carriers wednesday, I will post some pics

Hello,

I'm new to this but I am planning to join as Novice-Spec on the upcoming TCS (all Tamiya parts, etc.). First race is on May (carpet, TQ Hobbies) and the next is on August (asphalt, Tamiya). Tire/wheel requirement is 26mm width...

My question is, what tires / wheels / inserts would you recommend for each track type (carpet & asphalt)? It would be most helpful if you can specify part number/s if available.

Thank you for all your help! =)

You probably know this, but just in case. You have to run kit tires and there three numbers.

Hello,

Thank you for responding...

...yes, I think I read the 3 part numbers somewhere...but I was wondering if I can use inserts?!? ...if so, what inserts should/can I use?

Without inserts, will the car "stand-up" properly without them?

Thanks again! =)

Question guys.....I am using the TT01 ball diff (TAM53663) in the rear. It changes the outdrives and they are really large. The TT02S dog bones barely make contact. Anyone else made this change and if so, how did you solve this problem?

Thanks

TCS Rules state any option part that is intended for that chassis can be used. If you look up a TT02, the inserts are listed. I am putting them into my boy's TT02 tires.
- Jose

Oh, and the general rules state you can use any insert if the class does not call for pre-mounts or strictly forbid it. I don't see anything in novice spec that says you can't add inserts.
- Jose

Do you mean the slots in the outdrives are really large or the outdrives themselves are meant for a physically larger "ball end"? I ask because I've not seen a TT01 ball diff but know Stock TT01 bones are huge plastic things. If it's just that the slots that are too wide use some driveshaft protectors/blades/cushions/u-pieces. If the gap is 3.5mm you can use Tamiya ones such as 51536 swing shaft cap.

First time running the R version. Ended up with blue springs all around. It was better than blue front springs/ yellow rear combo. I'm going to try yellow spring all around. Rear shock in inner hole and front in the outer hole. Getting ready for Pro Spec at the Tamiya USA track

Hello guys. My friend bought few days ago a brand new HPI RS4 Sport 3 and I instantly noticed that the chassis is very clean, with few wires left in view. I find my TT02 more messy. I reduced the lenght of the wires going from the battery to the esc and from the esc to the motor (except sensors wires). As I stripped my chassis to install the hardened lower deck, I'd like to shorten the wires going from the esc and the servo to the receiver. Can I cut and resolder them or I shouldn't do it? Thank you very much

You can get new pre-wired harnesses, pins, and connectors at an electronics/robotics place like Pololu:
https://www.pololu.com

When I was doing a lot of competition rock crawling, the receiver and ESC would be at one axle of the vehicle, while the battery and steering servo would be on the other axle. I would get an extension longer than what I needed, then cut it to fit exactly, and use new pins/connectors on the trimmed end.

Alternatively, when using multiple motors and ESCs, I would just trim the ESC control wires to about an inch or so, then use custom length extensions to reach the receiver wherever it may be.

While there are still some instances where you would need to go to the ESC pcb and physically solder new control wiring, most ESCs now use 3-pins and you can just get the right length harness or make your own (ideal if for various stand-alone BEC setups in larger scale vehicles).

Any recommendations for wheels for the Radial Racing tires? Trying to set up my son's TT-02 for an upcoming TCS race.

Part #s would be appreciated. Thanks!