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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 04-26-2021 | 02:16 PM
  #2731  
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Originally Posted by Raman
For 13.5 you should to be around 4.5 fdr .. I believe.. maybe start above that and keep an eye on Temps
Excellent, thank you. I believe I saw when researching it should theoretically be right around there. I do plan on starting a bit above that and seeing how it goes from there, will certainly keep an eye on the temps of course.
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Old 04-29-2021 | 08:00 AM
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I plan on running the Hobbywing 1060 esc. I know they are prone to limp mode. My question is will putting a glitch buster at the reciever do the same effect as if I solder a cap onto the battery wires on the ESC?? I'm trying to prevent the limp mode. I'll be running a normal digital servo (non HV) on 5v (ESC) and a torque tuned motor. Thanks
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Old 04-29-2021 | 08:18 AM
  #2733  
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The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC.
​​​​I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps)
So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap.
​​​​​
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Old 04-29-2021 | 09:12 AM
  #2734  
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Originally Posted by JJ100179
The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC.
​​​​I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps)
So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap.
​​​​​
thanks for the info. I emailed Hobbywing directly and they said there was a misprint on the info for the 1060 brushed ESC. It is rated for 5V/2A. Atleast that's what I was told directly from Hobbywing. So I guess I'll put a cap in parallel on the ESC power wires.
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Old 04-29-2021 | 09:38 AM
  #2735  
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I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.
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Old 04-29-2021 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.
that's great to hear. Makes me feel better about my choice of ESC. Did you solder a cap to the battery leads??
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Old 04-30-2021 | 02:23 AM
  #2737  
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I recently bought two. One is in a Tamiya M05 with a torque tuned motor. In all 3 qualifiers and the 3 finals at my last meeting it went into limp mode whilst doing the warm up laps. In the actual runs it only did it once on the first lap of the last final. It never did it off the line ie stationary to full throttle, really weird. Never once had an issue with my ancient tamiya esc. Every time if I just sat for a few seconds it then seemed to go back to normal

The other one I put in a TT01 with a team powers brushed which is quicker than a torque tuned and I presume more power hungry, only gave that a couple of runs but no issues.

Going to put the M05 one into nimh mode and wire a cap in if it does it again, if that doesn't work then it goes in the bin. I wish I had researched them first as there are so many reports of it. I just bought them as I wanted a cheap waterproof esc with lipo protection
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Old 04-30-2021 | 09:36 AM
  #2738  
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Originally Posted by dlruk
I recently bought two. One is in a Tamiya M05 with a torque tuned motor. In all 3 qualifiers and the 3 finals at my last meeting it went into limp mode whilst doing the warm up laps. In the actual runs it only did it once on the first lap of the last final. It never did it off the line ie stationary to full throttle, really weird. Never once had an issue with my ancient tamiya esc. Every time if I just sat for a few seconds it then seemed to go back to normal

The other one I put in a TT01 with a team powers brushed which is quicker than a torque tuned and I presume more power hungry, only gave that a couple of runs but no issues.

Going to put the M05 one into nimh mode and wire a cap in if it does it again, if that doesn't work then it goes in the bin. I wish I had researched them first as there are so many reports of it. I just bought them as I wanted a cheap waterproof esc with lipo protection
it seems it is a shot in the dark on wether you get a good one or bad one. I may just go with the new Tamiya Tble-04s. It's low voltage cutoff is set at 6.2V. I know it's alittle low for lipos but races are only 7-10 minutes long. I don't understand why Hobbywing doesn't correct this known issue. Raise the price and make the Hobbywing 6V/3A and fix the limp mode issue then they would have a winner on their hands for a brushed ESC. Can you use the Hobbywing 1080 for racers?? It states it's for crawlers.
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Old 04-30-2021 | 09:49 AM
  #2739  
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
it seems it is a shot in the dark on wether you get a good one or bad one. I may just go with the new Tamiya Tble-04s. It's low voltage cutoff is set at 6.2V. I know it's alittle low for lipos but races are only 7-10 minutes long. I don't understand why Hobbywing doesn't correct this known issue. Raise the price and make the Hobbywing 6V/3A and fix the limp mode issue then they would have a winner on their hands for a brushed ESC. Can you use the Hobbywing 1080 for racers?? It states it's for crawlers.
There is no incentive to make "race worthy" brushed esc's , when the international bodies that sanction RC competition have long ago moved on to brushless.
HobbyWing makes perfectly affordable and capable brushless esc's that are better suited to competition. Don't paint yourself into a corner with the limitations associated with older technology.
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Old 04-30-2021 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by simple
There is no incentive to make "race worthy" brushed esc's , when the international bodies that sanction RC competition have long ago moved on to brushless.
HobbyWing makes perfectly affordable and capable brushless esc's that are better suited to competition. Don't paint yourself into a corner with the limitations associated with older technology.
I'm not trying to paint myself into a corner. I want to race in the TCS in the Spec/Novice class and that class has to run the torque tuned motor or silver can stock motor. So I'm limited on what ESC I can use. If you can help me out with some suggestions that would be great.
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Old 04-30-2021 | 10:42 AM
  #2741  
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
I'm not trying to paint myself into a corner. I want to race in the TCS in the Spec/Novice class and that class has to run the torque tuned motor or silver can stock motor. So I'm limited on what ESC I can use. If you can help me out with some suggestions that would be great.
The stock Tamiya ESC is a good choice.
If your budget allows, I seriously recommend considering Tekin FX esc's... Even though they are marketed as crawling esc's, they were fully developed long before crawling was part of the market. They are a full option brushed esc that is very suitable to race spec. They are also super tiny and compact, making them really awesome for fitting into tight spaces and keeping your center of gravity low. Back when I raced Tamiya mini, they were the ESC to have.
https://www.teamtekin.com/fxr.html

Additionally, Tekin RS esc's can be wired for brushed motors and set to brushed mode. Something I can't do with my HobbyWing Xerun esc's unfortunately
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt1157/p972038
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Last edited by simple; 04-30-2021 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 04-30-2021 | 04:33 PM
  #2742  
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Originally Posted by simple
The stock Tamiya ESC is a good choice.
If your budget allows, I seriously recommend considering Tekin FX esc's... Even though they are marketed as crawling esc's, they were fully developed long before crawling was part of the market. They are a full option brushed esc that is very suitable to race spec. They are also super tiny and compact, making them really awesome for fitting into tight spaces and keeping your center of gravity low. Back when I raced Tamiya mini, they were the ESC to have.
https://www.teamtekin.com/fxr.html

Additionally, Tekin RS esc's can be wired for brushed motors and set to brushed mode. Something I can't do with my HobbyWing Xerun esc's unfortunately
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt1157/p972038
I've been researching brushed ESCs and can't justify spending $100 on an ESC for a $115 car. The Hobbywing 1080 is the one I've decided to go with. It's only $41 per unit which isn't bad plus has all the features needed in an ESC. Thanks for the help and advice
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Old 04-30-2021 | 05:26 PM
  #2743  
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Default Bumpers???

Do TT01 bumpers fit our TT02. I ordered a bumper from the TamiyaUSA website from the TT02R spare parts list and the pic is not what I was sent. I can't seem to find the correct part number for the bumper that comes with the R version of our cars.
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Old 05-01-2021 | 11:23 AM
  #2744  
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Old 05-02-2021 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
I've been researching brushed ESCs and can't justify spending $100 on an ESC for a $115 car. The Hobbywing 1080 is the one I've decided to go with. It's only $41 per unit which isn't bad plus has all the features needed in an ESC. Thanks for the help and advice
Good luck, but the tekin RS series are worth the extra cash without being stuck on either brushed or brushless modes....
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