396LikesTekno MT410
12-17-2016 | 08:51 AM
#301
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,017
I use a black grease on the ring/pinion gears- good coverage but sparingly as well as the diff outdrives where they mate with the diff cups.
I am experimenting with graphite lube or a dry bicycle chain lube on the axle universals.
Shock o-rings I use Slick Honey (Slickolium) but will be trying some green slime grease next time I overhaul shocks.
I don't think there are any greases that will harm the plastics as long as you stay with regular bearing grease and not some oddball grease specific for some other application.
Black grease that comes with the kit for the ring gears is good stuff.
I am experimenting with graphite lube or a dry bicycle chain lube on the axle universals.
Shock o-rings I use Slick Honey (Slickolium) but will be trying some green slime grease next time I overhaul shocks.
I don't think there are any greases that will harm the plastics as long as you stay with regular bearing grease and not some oddball grease specific for some other application.
Black grease that comes with the kit for the ring gears is good stuff.
12-17-2016 | 09:10 AM
#302
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
I use a black grease on the ring/pinion gears- good coverage but sparingly as well as the diff outdrives where they mate with the diff cups.
I am experimenting with graphite lube or a dry bicycle chain lube on the axle universals.
Shock o-rings I use Slick Honey (Slickolium) but will be trying some green slime grease next time I overhaul shocks.
I don't think there are any greases that will harm the plastics as long as you stay with regular bearing grease and not some oddball grease specific for some other application.
Black grease that comes with the kit for the ring gears is good stuff.
I am experimenting with graphite lube or a dry bicycle chain lube on the axle universals.
Shock o-rings I use Slick Honey (Slickolium) but will be trying some green slime grease next time I overhaul shocks.
I don't think there are any greases that will harm the plastics as long as you stay with regular bearing grease and not some oddball grease specific for some other application.
Black grease that comes with the kit for the ring gears is good stuff.
12-17-2016 | 03:10 PM
#304
sorry, I guess I should have quoted the post I was questioning. see below
Functioning chassis, need to squirt the shell.
Items installed not included in the kit:
Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus Brushless ESC/G2 Motor Combo (1900kV)
Pro-Line Badlands 3.8" Tire 1/2" Offset Wheel (2) (Black) (M2)
Pro-Line RAM 1500 Monster Truck Body
ProTek RC 170T Chad Bradley Team Edition High Torque Servo
Tekno RC 4x10mm Button Head Droop Adjustment Hex Screw
Tekno RC Aluminum Single Sided Clamping Servo Horn
Tekno RC Aluminum Vented Shock Cap Set
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Adjustment Nut Set
Tekno RC 95mm Rear Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 9.5T)
Tekno RC 80mm Front Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 8.0T)
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Cartridge Cap Set
Tekno RC CNC Conical Shock Pistons (8x1.3mm)
Items installed not included in the kit:
Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus Brushless ESC/G2 Motor Combo (1900kV)
Pro-Line Badlands 3.8" Tire 1/2" Offset Wheel (2) (Black) (M2)
Pro-Line RAM 1500 Monster Truck Body
ProTek RC 170T Chad Bradley Team Edition High Torque Servo
Tekno RC 4x10mm Button Head Droop Adjustment Hex Screw
Tekno RC Aluminum Single Sided Clamping Servo Horn
Tekno RC Aluminum Vented Shock Cap Set
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Adjustment Nut Set
Tekno RC 95mm Rear Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 9.5T)
Tekno RC 80mm Front Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 8.0T)
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Cartridge Cap Set
Tekno RC CNC Conical Shock Pistons (8x1.3mm)
12-17-2016 | 06:27 PM
#306
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,017
http://www.rocklube.com/products.html
I think it is just black axle grease, but I use the Super Coat Grease. The Red Devil Grease is also nice.
http://buzzysusa.com
Slick Honey is what use on the shock O-rings. But I am going to try this next-
The Rock Shox lube is a lube that is made for dynamic seals (o-rings in bicycle forks) and it is suitable for silicone oil. I think it is the same thing as AE Green Slime.
I think it is just black axle grease, but I use the Super Coat Grease. The Red Devil Grease is also nice.
http://buzzysusa.com
Slick Honey is what use on the shock O-rings. But I am going to try this next-
The Rock Shox lube is a lube that is made for dynamic seals (o-rings in bicycle forks) and it is suitable for silicone oil. I think it is the same thing as AE Green Slime.
12-18-2016 | 03:07 AM
#307
Here is some a time lapse video of the unboxing and build video I did of the New TEKNO MT410 MONSTER TRUCK, Hope you enjoy the footage and thanks to the guys at Coast 2 Coast Rc here in Australia for arranging the kit for me to put through its paces.
Thanks to my IT friends for sorting the corrupted video file so we could produce this video
Thanks to my IT friends for sorting the corrupted video file so we could produce this video
| + YouTube Video | |
12-18-2016 | 04:09 AM
#308
The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.
I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.
Again, just my preference.
Last edited by celt; 12-18-2016 at 06:40 AM.
12-18-2016 | 12:26 PM
#309
The kit comes with droop screws that face the threaded end towards the chassis.
The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.
I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.
Again, just my preference.
The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.
I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.
Again, just my preference.
12-18-2016 | 12:49 PM
#310
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 621
Maybe I missed the post, but my kit didn't come with the special threaded droop screws. The build manual also shows normal screws that thread in from the top of the arms. I'll probably pick a set of those screws up when it's convenient.
Speaking of my kit, are you supposed to cut down the servo saver spring? Also, At max ride height, the screw for the steering links on the knuckles hit the a-arms. I don't think I plan on setting the ride height to max, but this still means you can't turn when it's jumping. Furthermore, I think I need to cut down the front screws that go into the front chassis brace into the plastic bulkheads. I checked the manual, and they're supposed to be the same length as the rear, but the rear has a plastic bumper acting as a spacer. The fronts dont have that bumper acting as a spacer. I mentioned too that my motor mount was a bit out of tolerance, but I sanded it. I didn't expect absolutely no issues. It does seem a bit odd though because 90% of the kit is near perfect fit and finish, but then there's little quirks that I, or others have had.
Speaking of my kit, are you supposed to cut down the servo saver spring? Also, At max ride height, the screw for the steering links on the knuckles hit the a-arms. I don't think I plan on setting the ride height to max, but this still means you can't turn when it's jumping. Furthermore, I think I need to cut down the front screws that go into the front chassis brace into the plastic bulkheads. I checked the manual, and they're supposed to be the same length as the rear, but the rear has a plastic bumper acting as a spacer. The fronts dont have that bumper acting as a spacer. I mentioned too that my motor mount was a bit out of tolerance, but I sanded it. I didn't expect absolutely no issues. It does seem a bit odd though because 90% of the kit is near perfect fit and finish, but then there's little quirks that I, or others have had.
12-18-2016 | 04:10 PM
#311
See answers in red.
Maybe I missed the post, but my kit didn't come with the special threaded droop screws.
If you're referring to TKR1238, the kit doesn't include those.
The build manual also shows normal screws that thread in from the top of the arms. I'll probably pick a set of those screws up when it's convenient.
Yes, the kit includes the standard M4x10 button head screws, TKR1443. You should have those in your kit and you can install them upside down to prevent marring the droop pads.
Speaking of my kit, are you supposed to cut down the servo saver spring?
Nope, just run the spring as is.
Also, At max ride height, the screw for the steering links on the knuckles hit the a-arms. I don't think I plan on setting the ride height to max, but this still means you can't turn when it's jumping.
Look at the instructions again, I think you installed the screw upside down. It is counter intuitive because of the hex hole on the spindle. We run all of cars this way now.
Furthermore, I think I need to cut down the front screws that go into the front chassis brace into the plastic bulkheads. I checked the manual, and they're supposed to be the same length as the rear, but the rear has a plastic bumper acting as a spacer. The fronts dont have that bumper acting as a spacer.
If you're referring to the M3x40mm screws then you don't need to cut them down. We spec'd those screws before we ever came out with the SC truck so they're the correct length. We actually tested extensively to make sure they were long enough when running the bumper and found they hold up just fine.
I mentioned too that my motor mount was a bit out of tolerance, but I sanded it. I didn't expect absolutely no issues. It does seem a bit odd though because 90% of the kit is near perfect fit and finish, but then there's little quirks that I, or others have had.
If you're referring to TKR1238, the kit doesn't include those.
The build manual also shows normal screws that thread in from the top of the arms. I'll probably pick a set of those screws up when it's convenient.
Yes, the kit includes the standard M4x10 button head screws, TKR1443. You should have those in your kit and you can install them upside down to prevent marring the droop pads.
Speaking of my kit, are you supposed to cut down the servo saver spring?
Nope, just run the spring as is.
Also, At max ride height, the screw for the steering links on the knuckles hit the a-arms. I don't think I plan on setting the ride height to max, but this still means you can't turn when it's jumping.
Look at the instructions again, I think you installed the screw upside down. It is counter intuitive because of the hex hole on the spindle. We run all of cars this way now.
Furthermore, I think I need to cut down the front screws that go into the front chassis brace into the plastic bulkheads. I checked the manual, and they're supposed to be the same length as the rear, but the rear has a plastic bumper acting as a spacer. The fronts dont have that bumper acting as a spacer.
If you're referring to the M3x40mm screws then you don't need to cut them down. We spec'd those screws before we ever came out with the SC truck so they're the correct length. We actually tested extensively to make sure they were long enough when running the bumper and found they hold up just fine.
I mentioned too that my motor mount was a bit out of tolerance, but I sanded it. I didn't expect absolutely no issues. It does seem a bit odd though because 90% of the kit is near perfect fit and finish, but then there's little quirks that I, or others have had.
12-18-2016 | 05:08 PM
#312
The kit comes with droop screws that face the threaded end towards the chassis.
The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.
I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.
Again, just my preference.
The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.
I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.
Again, just my preference.
Oh ok, I follow you. I have those same droop screws on both of my Tekno's and I would do the same thing you did. Good idea
12-19-2016 | 03:52 AM
#313
In a pinch, you can take the standard button head screws, and cut a slot in the end with a dremel. That way, you can install them with the head facing the chassis to avoid gouges, but still be able to adjust droop from the top using a small flat head screwdriver.
12-19-2016 | 04:25 AM
#314
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 650
From: Germany
Alright, it took a bit to get this over the pond, but I'm finally ready to join you guys!
I'll check my motor insert thickness later today. @Matthew_Armeni: do you already know what is going on with some of the motor inserts? Was it just a bad out-of-tolerance batch? Are you replacing inserts that are affected?
I'll check my motor insert thickness later today. @Matthew_Armeni: do you already know what is going on with some of the motor inserts? Was it just a bad out-of-tolerance batch? Are you replacing inserts that are affected?