TAMIYA M-06 Thread
#1906
I wil be running on asphalt tracks (3 different tracks). the grip varies on each, but are all mid to high grip.
Ball diff sounds like the way to go, -I've used it for years, ...and 3racing isn't an option as I have to have my car TCS legal (only tamiya parts).
thanks for all the help by the way, -more questions will be coming.
Ball diff sounds like the way to go, -I've used it for years, ...and 3racing isn't an option as I have to have my car TCS legal (only tamiya parts).
thanks for all the help by the way, -more questions will be coming.
#1907
I wil be running on asphalt tracks (3 different tracks). the grip varies on each, but are all mid to high grip.
Ball diff sounds like the way to go, -I've used it for years, ...and 3racing isn't an option as I have to have my car TCS legal (only tamiya parts).
thanks for all the help by the way, -more questions will be coming.
Ball diff sounds like the way to go, -I've used it for years, ...and 3racing isn't an option as I have to have my car TCS legal (only tamiya parts).
thanks for all the help by the way, -more questions will be coming.


Too bad, that you´re not allowed to use fluid gear diff. It´s a shame, that Tamiya doesn´t bring one for the M05/06. I only run the 3Racing one in my M05L and my M06L, despite a modded Spec R in my M03.
They are nearly maintenance free, I open it once a year for a check and little cleaning. The advantage for me is the characteristics, as you can still have some diff action, when turning slow, like when you need the diff action on the axle to help for turn in. But when trying to spin it faster, the fluid locks and prevents spin out of the inner wheel.
I raced 2014 against a M06R Alfa on sweep slicks, the guy was damn fast and afterwards he told me to rum 7k oil in rear! Never thought that this could work in RWD. When he bought the car from an Nitro driver, it had even 10k oil in the diff...
I run 3k at the moment, which is great on carpet. With ABS and the brake turned slightly down, you can even brake into tight corners to reduce turning circle in some corners, where the M06 has a little push. And acceleration is great, too.
O.k., but you´re stuck to TCS rules, so I stop talking about diffs!

Which tires do you have to use in TCS?
And when using the BB shocks on the M06, make sure to have in rear enough shock length (2mm more) by the special M06 piston rod, when using the outer lower damper mount in the axle pin from the Pro kit.
And when doing so, I´d increase the piston hole to 1,3mm 3 holes like in the R-Kit. I do it vice versa also on my M05 Pro V2 on the front axle and liked it very much this racing season.
Have fun with the build, and give the project a little patience, when the first races may not be as good as expected.
Br,
Matthias
#1909
O.k., but you´re stuck to TCS rules, so I stop talking about diffs!
Which tires do you have to use in TCS?
Which tires do you have to use in TCS?
tires, ...there are about 3 or 4 types all Tamiya pre-mounted ...basically its the S-grips and Slicks (in A and B compound) that are allowed. In my M05L I run Slicks in front and s-grips in rear. I find the S-grips give a bit of grip and prevent my car from sliding out.
thanks for the info on the shocks, -i'll be referring to that during the build for sure.
I am now thinking that the basic kits may be less expensive than buying everything in pieces. -after I priced it all out. W/ the kit i'll get a body and can sell the ESC. I just hate not using 1/2 the kit (as i'll be upgrading most of it from the get go).
...k, stay tuned, i'll post photos and document my build.
#1910
Yes, AND in looking at the M06 and M06 pro ...they run about $150 and $220 respectively. I looked at the manual and priced out the parts I'd need and it only comes to about $75 ...I have a ton of spare upgrades from my M05 that will all fit the M06 just fine. I think if I bought a kit i'd throw out everything but the chassis parts ...I have tons of ball bearings (I am particular about the brand I use), I'd use the big bore Tamiya shocks for the M class, Double Cardin axle joints, and I have all the TAmiya aluminum uprights. I can pick up a titanium screw set for about $30 ...So I may just put an M06 together w/o purchasing a kit. Being that I'll race this I will want to use very specific parts that aren't included in the kits.
I have a lot of reading to do here on this thread,
Quick question though, ...I race F1's and maybe I shouldn't compare the M06 to an F1, but w/ both being a rear drive ...I tend to run my F1's diff loose. Is the same for the M06? I ask because I want to know if everyone runs the stock gearing or the "ball diff" ...w/ the M05 most get the ball diff (I think its a TA03 or something like that) and you tighten the heck out of it. You kind of mimic a TC car (fixed diff in front loose in rear). Yet w/ the M06 I am a little confused here.
thanks!
I have a lot of reading to do here on this thread,
Quick question though, ...I race F1's and maybe I shouldn't compare the M06 to an F1, but w/ both being a rear drive ...I tend to run my F1's diff loose. Is the same for the M06? I ask because I want to know if everyone runs the stock gearing or the "ball diff" ...w/ the M05 most get the ball diff (I think its a TA03 or something like that) and you tighten the heck out of it. You kind of mimic a TC car (fixed diff in front loose in rear). Yet w/ the M06 I am a little confused here.
thanks!
Axles : https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53681
And lightweight axles:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=54410
Actually, m06 drivers can actually get away with using dog bones... it's actually better...
#1911
Cos... double cardan joints are wasted for a rwd car... a better buy would be vintage titanium
Axles : https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53681
And lightweight axles:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54410
Actually, m06 drivers can actually get away with using dog bones... it's actually better...
foampervert is offline Report Post
Axles : https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53681
And lightweight axles:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54410
Actually, m06 drivers can actually get away with using dog bones... it's actually better...
foampervert is offline Report Post
#1912
Okay, placed an order for the M06 Alfa body kit. ...got it for $136 shipped.
I priced out the pieces individually and it would be just a little less money however there would be the hassle of hunting down a few Tamiya specific parts (I plan on racing this and we use TCS rules ...so only Tamiya parts).
photos to come !
I plan on selling some of the parts like the:
-Tamiya ESC,
-Alfa wheel set and the
-Alfa body
PM me if interested in any of these parts. I am not looking to make much but just hate having parts laying around that I'll never use. All will be new in packaging. Otherwise they'll be up on eBay.
I priced out the pieces individually and it would be just a little less money however there would be the hassle of hunting down a few Tamiya specific parts (I plan on racing this and we use TCS rules ...so only Tamiya parts).
photos to come !
I plan on selling some of the parts like the:
-Tamiya ESC,
-Alfa wheel set and the
-Alfa body
PM me if interested in any of these parts. I am not looking to make much but just hate having parts laying around that I'll never use. All will be new in packaging. Otherwise they'll be up on eBay.
#1915
Okay, placed an order for the M06 Alfa body kit. ...got it for $136 shipped.
I priced out the pieces individually and it would be just a little less money however there would be the hassle of hunting down a few Tamiya specific parts (I plan on racing this and we use TCS rules ...so only Tamiya parts).
photos to come !
I plan on selling some of the parts like the:
-Tamiya ESC,
-Alfa wheel set and the
-Alfa body
PM me if interested in any of these parts. I am not looking to make much but just hate having parts laying around that I'll never use. All will be new in packaging. Otherwise they'll be up on eBay.
I priced out the pieces individually and it would be just a little less money however there would be the hassle of hunting down a few Tamiya specific parts (I plan on racing this and we use TCS rules ...so only Tamiya parts).
photos to come !
I plan on selling some of the parts like the:
-Tamiya ESC,
-Alfa wheel set and the
-Alfa body
PM me if interested in any of these parts. I am not looking to make much but just hate having parts laying around that I'll never use. All will be new in packaging. Otherwise they'll be up on eBay.



You're breaking my heart man..



PM me when you get your kit.. Ill gladly take the body and wheels off your hands
#1916
selling the Alfa and wheels?
You're breaking my heart man..
PM me when you get your kit.. Ill gladly take the body and wheels off your hands
You're breaking my heart man..
PM me when you get your kit.. Ill gladly take the body and wheels off your hands

Sure, i'll gladly sell you the body and wheels -we'll work something out.
I am debating on mid or long wheelbase for my M06 and will either run the Miata body (mid) or a nissan silvia (long).
#1917
Great to see my favorite thread come to life again with all the M06 experts!
Too bad, that you´re not allowed to use fluid gear diff. It´s a shame, that Tamiya doesn´t bring one for the M05/06. I only run the 3Racing one in my M05L and my M06L, despite a modded Spec R in my M03.
They are nearly maintenance free, I open it once a year for a check and little cleaning. The advantage for me is the characteristics, as you can still have some diff action, when turning slow, like when you need the diff action on the axle to help for turn in. But when trying to spin it faster, the fluid locks and prevents spin out of the inner wheel.
I raced 2014 against a M06R Alfa on sweep slicks, the guy was damn fast and afterwards he told me to rum 7k oil in rear! Never thought that this could work in RWD. When he bought the car from an Nitro driver, it had even 10k oil in the diff...
I run 3k at the moment, which is great on carpet. With ABS and the brake turned slightly down, you can even brake into tight corners to reduce turning circle in some corners, where the M06 has a little push. And acceleration is great, too.
O.k., but you´re stuck to TCS rules, so I stop talking about diffs!
Which tires do you have to use in TCS?
And when using the BB shocks on the M06, make sure to have in rear enough shock length (2mm more) by the special M06 piston rod, when using the outer lower damper mount in the axle pin from the Pro kit.
And when doing so, I´d increase the piston hole to 1,3mm 3 holes like in the R-Kit. I do it vice versa also on my M05 Pro V2 on the front axle and liked it very much this racing season.
Have fun with the build, and give the project a little patience, when the first races may not be as good as expected.
Too bad, that you´re not allowed to use fluid gear diff. It´s a shame, that Tamiya doesn´t bring one for the M05/06. I only run the 3Racing one in my M05L and my M06L, despite a modded Spec R in my M03.
They are nearly maintenance free, I open it once a year for a check and little cleaning. The advantage for me is the characteristics, as you can still have some diff action, when turning slow, like when you need the diff action on the axle to help for turn in. But when trying to spin it faster, the fluid locks and prevents spin out of the inner wheel.
I raced 2014 against a M06R Alfa on sweep slicks, the guy was damn fast and afterwards he told me to rum 7k oil in rear! Never thought that this could work in RWD. When he bought the car from an Nitro driver, it had even 10k oil in the diff...
I run 3k at the moment, which is great on carpet. With ABS and the brake turned slightly down, you can even brake into tight corners to reduce turning circle in some corners, where the M06 has a little push. And acceleration is great, too.
O.k., but you´re stuck to TCS rules, so I stop talking about diffs!
Which tires do you have to use in TCS?
And when using the BB shocks on the M06, make sure to have in rear enough shock length (2mm more) by the special M06 piston rod, when using the outer lower damper mount in the axle pin from the Pro kit.
And when doing so, I´d increase the piston hole to 1,3mm 3 holes like in the R-Kit. I do it vice versa also on my M05 Pro V2 on the front axle and liked it very much this racing season.
Have fun with the build, and give the project a little patience, when the first races may not be as good as expected.
#1918
HA, ...you know I had to force myself years back to not keep shelf queens or try to keep my cars too pristine. I only keep vehicles that i race and I only keep them in race condition. They are all in great condition as I constantly tweak, adjust and care for my race vehicles. ...but no more shelf queens for me. In fact its been really difficult to NOT purchase the Tamiya 934 re-release limited kit. 
Sure, i'll gladly sell you the body and wheels -we'll work something out.
I am debating on mid or long wheelbase for my M06 and will either run the Miata body (mid) or a nissan silvia (long).

Sure, i'll gladly sell you the body and wheels -we'll work something out.
I am debating on mid or long wheelbase for my M06 and will either run the Miata body (mid) or a nissan silvia (long).
I think you should go with Miata..the L chassis will give you more under steer.
#1919
I think you should go with Miata..the L chassis will give you more under steer.
#1920
thanks, that is what I was leaning towards. I like that that body is also really low, the roof that is. Some of the bodies are so high that I think it raises the center of gravity a bit. Also w/ that miata you can tuck the wheels under it a bit to get the body really low (you can't do that w/ some of the bodies as they have wheel arches that get in the way).
I just learned there will be a TCS race here as well on April 22nd. My car is all Tamiya, just need to source a Reedy Sonic 21.5 and buy a set of those premounts.
So those premounts are "really" cheap lol
1016 S grips $34.99
1029 D60 slicks $42.99
A set of mounted Sorex 28 costs me $32!



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