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Old 12-13-2016, 02:26 PM   #1921
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I also use the 4mm hex hubs to reduce the track. Running the low profile Shimizu helps a lot too.

I just learned there will be a TCS race here as well on April 22nd. My car is all Tamiya, just need to source a Reedy Sonic 21.5 and buy a set of those premounts.

So those premounts are "really" cheap lol

1016 S grips $34.99
1029 D60 slicks $42.99

A set of mounted Sorex 28 costs me $32!
4mm not 5mm wheel hex's? sounds good, I think I may have a set of 4mm already.

Yep, the pre-mounts are what I run, its all that are allowed w/ TCS and no they are not cheap. BUT, they do last forever. I get a full season out of mine, maybe a bit more.

Our club allows any roar 21.5t motor (so that is where we stray from TCS).
I may have a 21.5 sonic reedy. ...hang on going to go check (working from home today)!
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Old 12-13-2016, 02:31 PM   #1922
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I do have one sealed in box,
I could sell it for $65 I pay shipping (they retail for about $85-90 w/ coupons you could probably find one for $70-$75). If interested let me know, otherwise no big deal ...I figure i'll be using it at some point when/if our club goes to that motor rule. I'll definitely find a use for it ..
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Old 12-13-2016, 02:43 PM   #1923
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Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
4mm not 5mm wheel hex's? sounds good, I think I may have a set of 4mm already.

Yep, the pre-mounts are what I run, its all that are allowed w/ TCS and no they are not cheap. BUT, they do last forever. I get a full season out of mine, maybe a bit more.

Our club allows any roar 21.5t motor (so that is where we stray from TCS).
I may have a 21.5 sonic reedy. ...hang on going to go check (working from home today)!
Which premount do you run on carpet? s grip or 60d slicks?

Thanks for checking.. No need for the motor, My friend has a Reedy 21.5 in his USGT and since there is no class in TCS I'll use his.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:20 PM   #1924
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no worry on the motor then.

I don't run on carpet, only asphalt. I race at any of 3 different tracks, ...all of them are well made tracks, very level and have medium grip. One is an indoor asphalt track.

I only have experience racing the M05 (and all variants of the M05), for asphalt I find that the "S-Grips" in rear work great to prevent the rear from sliding and Type A slicks in front (the harder ones which I think off top of my head are the A's (not B's)). Others I race with run the same setup as me OR type A slicks all around.

---------
For my M06 I plan to build per kit setup then take it to a track for practice. Then slowly introduce all the tips and tricks everyone on this thread has posted. I'd like to try my kit in stock form as a baseline. I am good at taking notes on what I do w/ my cars. Our 2017 points season doesn't start til March, so I plan on using the next several months to build and tweak the car ...get it ready for a race.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:22 PM   #1925
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The S-grips will give you a lot of grip which can be bad ...if your looking to only purchase one set of tires i'd start w/ the slicks. If you can go to the track and see what others in the M-class run on the carpet setup??
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:35 PM   #1926
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Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
The S-grips will give you a lot of grip which can be bad ...if your looking to only purchase one set of tires i'd start w/ the slicks. If you can go to the track and see what others in the M-class run on the carpet setup??
I'd hate to shell out $80 for both sets and not end up needing both. Fortunately I have a few sets of S and M grips albeit not premounts. I used them when I raced on asphalt. So I can start on the slicks and see if they will be enough and mix in S Grips to figure it out.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:45 PM   #1927
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the other thing to keep in mind, -you'll have to wear in whatever tires you get. My experience is that the tires need to have the hard edges worn down a little. So get a bunch of practice on them if you can.

Yeah, given a choice i'd go for the slicks to start. I think the S-grips will provide too much grip. -but my experience is all on asphalt. so maybe someone w/ carpet experience can weigh in...
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:08 PM   #1928
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Raman,

is this setup still relevant/what you recommend to start w/ ?
(I found this about 50pages back)

Also, I have an extra TA03 ball diff', is that good to use in place of the M05ball diff? ...do you recommend starting w/ it loose or tight or middle? (higher traction asphalt).

Thank you.

--------
Absolute necessary upgrades
1. TRF dampers
2. Turnbuckle links to adjust F/R camber and front toe
3. Upgrade diff: I personally run M05 ball diff. Others run Spec R or 3Racing gear diff. All are lighter than stock

Secondary upgrades
1. CVD axles - I know some would place this in category one. They make the car more efficient but not detrimental in my opinion
2. Rear 1 degree hubs. Plastic is 2 degrees and chassis has 1.5 built in, so stock set up is 3.5, which is too high in my opinion. I've been running the 1 degrees for quite some time


Set up:
TRF damper
60wt / yellow spring front
60wt / blue sprint rear
Shock length: rear has full length travel / droop, While front has 0 droop (I can't recall how many spacers that makes inside damper)

Suspension: -1'degree camber on rear, 0 degree on front. Front toe is 0 as well. Ride height is 5 mm on rear and 4 mm on front.

Shock position: rear is centre hole, front I tend to change from middle hole to inner hole.

I'm presently running the soft rear roll bar. No roll bar in front. It seems to be helping.

Battery position: I run a shorty battery positioned all the way in the front. I able to do this because I have the R spec axle weights which were never sold alone. Shorty pack is good to have because it lets you move the weight around for the traction you need. You will also want to balance the chassis from left to right, it helps a lot.

Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.

If traction is medium to high, I recommend the Pit Shimizu tyres. They come in 60 diameter S, M, H compound or 55D racing with numbered shores. The inserts that come with them are worthless. I run sweep soft pink inserts in mine

For traction compound I run SXT.

ESC: if you feel you need brakes, add drag brake to settings. Normal brakes are not recommended, because you will swap ends. I have mine set to minimum.

Driving: when entering a turn you need to let off throttle for a second and once its entered the turn apply power, gently, It likes to be driven while on power.

Hope this helps

Long live RWD!
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:10 PM   #1929
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-I don't have my kit yet ...(its ordered and in shipment). However starting to take notes and get a feel for what others recommend. Of course I plan on getting lots of practice laps in and tweaking my settings to my liking. ...but looking for a good starting point for my build.
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:04 AM   #1930
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The blue text is what I am presently running

Absolute necessary upgrades
1. TRF dampers
2. Turnbuckle links to adjust F/R camber and front toe
3. Upgrade diff: I personally run M05 ball diff. Others run Spec R or 3Racing gear diff. All are lighter than stock

Secondary upgrades
1. CVD axles - I know some would place this in category one. They make the car more efficient but not detrimental in my opinion
2. Rear 1 degree hubs. Plastic is 2 degrees and chassis has 1.5 built in, so stock set up is 3.5, which is too high in my opinion. I've been running the 1 degrees for quite some time


Set up:
TRF damper
60wt / red spring front
60wt / blue spring rear
Shock length: rear has full length travel / droop, While front has 0 droop (I can't recall how many spacers that makes inside damper)

Suspension: -2 camber on rear, -2 on front. Front toe is 1 toe out. Ride height is 4 mm on rear and 4 mm on front.

Shock position: rear is centre hole, front I tend to change from middle hole to inner hole.

I'm presently running the soft rear roll bar. Soft roll bar in front.

Battery position: I run a shorty battery positioned all the way in the front. (not running axle weights at present) Shorty pack is good to have because it lets you move the weight around for the traction you need. You will also want to balance the chassis from left to right, it helps a lot.

Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.

If traction is medium to high, I recommend the Pit Shimizu tyres. They come in 60 diameter S, M, H compound or 55D racing with numbered shores. The inserts that come with them are worthless. I run sweep soft pink inserts in mine for asphalt and hard green insert for carpet

For traction compound I run SXT.

ESC: on Asphalt if you feel you need brakes, add drag brake to settings. Normal brakes are not recommended, because you will swap ends. I have mine set to minimum.On carpet, I learned tonight that you can use brakes.

Driving: when entering a turn you need to let off throttle for a second and once its entered the turn apply power, gently, It likes to be driven while on power.

Hope this helps

Long live RWD!
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:13 AM   #1931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
-I don't have my kit yet ...(its ordered and in shipment). However starting to take notes and get a feel for what others recommend. Of course I plan on getting lots of practice laps in and tweaking my settings to my liking. ...but looking for a good starting point for my build.
You may want to start out with 40wt oil in your shocks and work your way up as you feel the need.

For springs I'm running the 42168

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXZEU3&P=K

Im thinking of going down to 50 to see how that feels
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:41 AM   #1932
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aWeSoMe .
thanks man!
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Old 12-15-2016, 03:49 PM   #1933
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Front toe has a big impact. If twitchy / undriveable, try reducing front toe out. Mine is at zero degrees.
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:04 PM   #1934
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Front toe has a big impact. If twitchy / undriveable, try reducing front toe out. Mine is at zero degrees.
-noted! (thanks)
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:07 PM   #1935
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My experience is the opposite. Won't track straight, give it more toe-out.
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