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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 12-03-2016 | 10:31 AM
  #1111  
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One more

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Old 12-04-2016 | 04:46 PM
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I think I may have found a solution to run diff fluid in the current TT02 diff, by using the internal parts of the TRF419 diff.. eg diff out drives, cross pin, diff gears. For the O-ring I used the Xray 5x2 o-ring which is a little meatier than the 419 ones. I also placed two shims 0,2 and 0,3 (54589 ) on top of O-ring and then placed the cross pin.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4908

Since the diff out drives are larger, you will need to add the outdrive protectors. Since there is no gasket between the gear and casing, I used associated green slime.

The mesh on the diff once assembled appears to be spot on, but only time will tell.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4020.jpg   Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4021.jpg   Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4023.jpg   Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4024.jpg   Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4025.jpg  

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Old 12-04-2016 | 04:46 PM
  #1113  
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The last two pictures
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4026.jpg   Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_4027.jpg  
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Old 12-08-2016 | 10:12 AM
  #1114  
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I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles. I think at certain turning angles or during intense movement the rings rub against the inner knuckle and pop off. I ordered a set of aluminum knuckles as they have a larger inner area, that is the approach to the inner bearing is wider and allows more room between the retainer ring of the CV joint and the knuckle housing. However the front aluminum knuckle I ordered does not fit the drift type S (note I am not set up for drift), ..the standard TT02 front assembly is different than the drift s front assembly. I much prefer the drift s assembly as it is closer to that of a TC car (standard turnbuckles and C hubs, not the large collar design and fixed turnbuckle).

So 2 things:
1) has anyone had this experience and if so is there another cv joint axle I can try ...I think a brand "jazzrider" has one w/ a retainer collar rather than a small ring which looks promising.

2) I have a set of standard aluminum yeah racing front knuckles and rear aluminum yeah racing hub carriers that will be up for sale. If interested PM me, i'll provide photos and we can make a deal. They are both new, the rear's are still sealed in bag. I can't use either w/ my setup.

Maybe a photo would be worth a thousand words, ...I can provide photos of what I am talking about, yet not til I get home from work.
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Old 12-08-2016 | 10:37 AM
  #1115  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles. I think at certain turning angles or during intense movement the rings rub against the inner knuckle and pop off. I ordered a set of aluminum knuckles as they have a larger inner area, that is the approach to the inner bearing is wider and allows more room between the retainer ring of the CV joint and the knuckle housing. However the front aluminum knuckle I ordered does not fit the drift type S (note I am not set up for drift), ..the standard TT02 front assembly is different than the drift s front assembly. I much prefer the drift s assembly as it is closer to that of a TC car (standard turnbuckles and C hubs, not the large collar design and fixed turnbuckle).

So 2 things:
1) has anyone had this experience and if so is there another cv joint axle I can try ...I think a brand "jazzrider" has one w/ a retainer collar rather than a small ring which looks promising.

2) I have a set of standard aluminum yeah racing front knuckles and rear aluminum yeah racing hub carriers that will be up for sale. If interested PM me, i'll provide photos and we can make a deal. They are both new, the rear's are still sealed in bag. I can't use either w/ my setup.

Maybe a photo would be worth a thousand words, ...I can provide photos of what I am talking about, yet not til I get home from work.
I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.
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Old 12-08-2016 | 10:52 AM
  #1116  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.
That's great information. The TT02 steering knuckles are weak. I know this is a pain. Could you post the part numbers? Thank you.
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Old 12-08-2016 | 11:02 AM
  #1117  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.
I was looking at the TT02S manual. I have a TT02. I would also have to buy the TT02S arms in order to make the above parts work. Is that correct? Thanks.
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Old 12-08-2016 | 11:55 AM
  #1118  
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Originally Posted by MD
I was looking at the TT02S manual. I have a TT02. I would also have to buy the TT02S arms in order to make the above parts work. Is that correct? Thanks.
Ah, if you have a TT02 its not really a practical option for you (if you buy the parts individually it's expensive to swap to the Type S setup) as you need: shock towers, upper links, lower arms, driveshafts, stub axles, outdrives, suspension hinge pins and locating plates, hubs and steering knuckles and ball studs etc. It's cheaper to buy a complete chassis kit to be honest, or get a used one. I'm in the UK but picked up a good used one with hop ups for £40 ($70) as a spares donor. On the plus side for lower spec racing it's a really tough durable chassis once you eliminate it's 2 main weak points: replace the front dog bones with CVDs or DCJs and use a decent servo saver like an Xray v2 x-stiff one. For you Type S owners the TRF Part # are:

54568 for the steering arms
54580 for the c-hubs
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Old 12-08-2016 | 12:15 PM
  #1119  
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Looks like I raised an issue that others have dealt with,
Awesome info!
I am taking a look at the parts you mentioned.

Yes, not happy w/ Yeah Racing. I usually avoid Yeah and 3Racing for this reason.
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Old 12-08-2016 | 12:54 PM
  #1120  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
Ah, if you have a TT02 its not really a practical option for you (if you buy the parts individually it's expensive to swap to the Type S setup) as you need: shock towers, upper links, lower arms, driveshafts, stub axles, outdrives, suspension hinge pins and locating plates, hubs and steering knuckles and ball studs etc. It's cheaper to buy a complete chassis kit to be honest, or get a used one. I'm in the UK but picked up a good used one with hop ups for £40 ($70) as a spares donor. On the plus side for lower spec racing it's a really tough durable chassis once you eliminate it's 2 main weak points: replace the front dog bones with CVDs or DCJs and use a decent servo saver like an Xray v2 x-stiff one. For you Type S owners the TRF Part # are:

54568 for the steering arms
54580 for the c-hubs

Thanks for the excellent information.
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Old 12-09-2016 | 06:18 PM
  #1121  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles.
I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year.
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Old 12-09-2016 | 08:37 PM
  #1122  
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I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year.
shoot, i think you may be right. I recall having that issue years ago w/ another car. Okay, i'll take the hubs apart AGAIN!

thanks though!
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Old 12-10-2016 | 09:01 AM
  #1123  
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okay, i can see that one was backwards ...just reversed so now both should be installed correctly. ...I also dremelled out the inside of each hub a tad so that there is now about 1.5mm of space around the rings. Seems to be working just driving around in my garage.
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Old 12-12-2016 | 05:10 AM
  #1124  
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I play my tt02s with teampower black can motor. It is an excellent entertaining car.
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Old 12-12-2016 | 05:26 AM
  #1125  
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Some photos of my tt02s



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