Carisma 15440

Just one more picture of this beauty with more fitting wheels:

Did you paint the body yourself or buy the prepainted?

Mine was unpainted, but already cut.
There is also a painted and rtr version on the market. It costs around 100€.

The number of activities shows how good this chassis is. Nobody seems to have problems xD
Just a strange german guy hangs around to show off his bodies...
So here we go again:











Super GT GT500-class Calsonic Impul GT-R made from Motul-Autech GT-R Body kit and a Tamiya Calsonic sticker sheet.

One more

I think I may have found a solution to run diff fluid in the current TT02 diff, by using the internal parts of the TRF419 diff.. eg diff out drives, cross pin, diff gears. For the O-ring I used the Xray 5x2 o-ring which is a little meatier than the 419 ones. I also placed two shims 0,2 and 0,3 (54589 ) on top of O-ring and then placed the cross pin.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4908

Since the diff out drives are larger, you will need to add the outdrive protectors. Since there is no gasket between the gear and casing, I used associated green slime.

The mesh on the diff once assembled appears to be spot on, but only time will tell.

The last two pictures

I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles. I think at certain turning angles or during intense movement the rings rub against the inner knuckle and pop off. I ordered a set of aluminum knuckles as they have a larger inner area, that is the approach to the inner bearing is wider and allows more room between the retainer ring of the CV joint and the knuckle housing. However the front aluminum knuckle I ordered does not fit the drift type S (note I am not set up for drift), ..the standard TT02 front assembly is different than the drift s front assembly. I much prefer the drift s assembly as it is closer to that of a TC car (standard turnbuckles and C hubs, not the large collar design and fixed turnbuckle).

So 2 things:
1) has anyone had this experience and if so is there another cv joint axle I can try ...I think a brand "jazzrider" has one w/ a retainer collar rather than a small ring which looks promising.

2) I have a set of standard aluminum yeah racing front knuckles and rear aluminum yeah racing hub carriers that will be up for sale. If interested PM me, i'll provide photos and we can make a deal. They are both new, the rear's are still sealed in bag. I can't use either w/ my setup.

Maybe a photo would be worth a thousand words, ...I can provide photos of what I am talking about, yet not til I get home from work.

I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.

That's great information. The TT02 steering knuckles are weak. I know this is a pain. Could you post the part numbers? Thank you.

I was looking at the TT02S manual. I have a TT02. I would also have to buy the TT02S arms in order to make the above parts work. Is that correct? Thanks.

Ah, if you have a TT02 its not really a practical option for you (if you buy the parts individually it's expensive to swap to the Type S setup) as you need: shock towers, upper links, lower arms, driveshafts, stub axles, outdrives, suspension hinge pins and locating plates, hubs and steering knuckles and ball studs etc. It's cheaper to buy a complete chassis kit to be honest, or get a used one. I'm in the UK but picked up a good used one with hop ups for £40 ($70) as a spares donor. On the plus side for lower spec racing it's a really tough durable chassis once you eliminate it's 2 main weak points: replace the front dog bones with CVDs or DCJs and use a decent servo saver like an Xray v2 x-stiff one. For you Type S owners the TRF Part # are:

54568 for the steering arms
54580 for the c-hubs

Looks like I raised an issue that others have dealt with,
Awesome info!
I am taking a look at the parts you mentioned.

Yes, not happy w/ Yeah Racing. I usually avoid Yeah and 3Racing for this reason.

Thanks for the excellent information.