Tamiya TT02 Thread
#1141
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 52
Wow.. thanks for the advice..
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂
Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..
The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet
But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car
My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell
His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂
Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..
The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet
But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car
My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell
His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol
#1142
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 52
in my opinion your rear diff is way too tight, your not letting the rear wheels spin independently and thus the rear is spinning out. My suggestion is to keep the front diff tight and loosen the rear.
I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed.
I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed.
The front is packed with super heavy duty grease
But the back just a tip, the diff still loose
#1143
Wow.. thanks for the advice..
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂
Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..
The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet
But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car
My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell
His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂
Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..
The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet
But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car
My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell
His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol
I can't speak to what the pros in Indonesia run, but most factory drivers that post their set up use the Internet theory.
Try out the "internet" set up and see if it solves your problem. It doesn't hurt.
It will make your life easier when you figure out the baseline set up and then tune the final parts with wing, body.
#1144
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
Just a tip to save money, avoid running the 418/419 c hubs, they are very fragile. The stock c hubs that come with the s type work fine with double cardan joints. The 418 c hubs just allow you to remove them with ease, since the cut out is larger.
Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race.
Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts
Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race.
Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts
#1147
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 108
#1148
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
#1149
#1151
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 108
Lots of variables to deal with such as size of track, brand of motor, timing, etc. However, 4.35 FDR will get you close to where you need to be.
#1152
I'm running a 78/58 64p for 21.5 Novak Vulcan, zero timing.... Which is 3.5 fdr. To get there, I'm using the yeah racing mount and the gear cover over the pinion had to be trimmed... So not exactly TCS legal.
#1153
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 108
I generally set mine up in a similar way when I run it in the VTA class, but have an extra gear cover and stock motor mount to use for when I do TCS races.





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