Depends on the tuning n fuel used, if good tune n good fuel as mentioned previously, u shouldn't have problem to get 5 gallons but very rare

Hey guys, whats the story with the Top elite 5. Good engine?? also if chossing between a 086 pipe or 9901 what would be the go?

086

086 without a doubt, more power basically everywhere. The 9901 is ok, but the top end is very restricted. If your track has no real straightaway it will be fine, but the 086 will feel and perform like an entirely different engine…

Agreed, best i have ever use

So I've had my mito 4 for only 2 gallons now. When I first got it, it would start at the tiniest bump on the box. Now it take about 1 minute of on the box to start it. But after it starts she runs fine.

I've noticed that some times she would throw fuel out of the exhaust so maybe she's being flooded? No leaks, new plug, clean filters. My lsn sits close to flush, my hsn is a touch in from flush.

Using byrons 30/8.

9901 works quite good on a 41001...revs out way harder then when its on a 41021

You guys talking about pinch crack me up....you realize that if it's still metal to metal it's not 100% broken in right? A well done motor will last forever as long as you keep the dirt out of it and don't run it lean. Compression is a good thing....if you are only getting 3 gallons out of a motor you are failing somewhere in your process or judgement of what is a word out motor.

To an extent, I agree with you. People get too wrapped up in "low compression".
BUT, it's still an ABC engine, therefore zero interference when cold means there's going to be a gap at operating temperature between the piston and sleeve due to expansion.
With that said, I have plenty of old engines that have no "pinch" at all. With a lot of fuel ran through them.
They run good and I could probably use them if I needed to.
However, the first sign (in my experience) of lower compression is lack of a solid low idle. Which is when I rebuild or replace my engines.
So are they worn out?
They run.. just don't idle well.

I find when motors are starting to get wore out they go pretty soft on the bottom end.

take some head shims out..Novarossi are very conservative from factory and as the engine wear it starts to affect it...taking out 0.1 -0.2 mm worth of shims will completely change that engine and bring it back to life !! stock they have 2 x silver 0.3 mm and 1 x Brass 0.2 for a total of 0.8.... I would try removing the 0.2 mm brass first... richen the needles slightly, lower the idle gap, check the linkage and then see how it runs... If it runs good your all set, if it acts a little odd then add back 0.1 mm shim ... usually they will tolerate a 0.2 mm reduction and it can make a massive difference...

Yes...idle stability is a good tell tale sign.....and I just do a leak down hold....run it up against compression and see how long it holds.....it's pretty easy to tell if it's done or not

Just have it resized, I only charge $18.00 return shipping included. Or $30.00 if you send me the whole engine.

Rex www.rwmods.com

I do the same thing actually. It's not really something that can be explained. A good engine just "bleeds down" slower.
I also put the exhaust port up to my ear when doing it, because there's even a certain sound, I'm sure you know!
Again, super hard to describe.

Who has tested the Adam Drake motor ? What pipe worked best on it and how was your fuel mileage with the motor compared to what you was driving before you had this motor? Is it an easy motor to break in or does it take awhile like the Novarossi p5 ? What the differences between P5 and a Adam Drake motor they both are 5 port?