http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/

Thank you for the link. My issue is 0 offset wheels don't even fill out the arches on a 190mm body, so it would seem that wouldn't work.

"0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires"

This doesn't seem like it would apply to the TT02 chassis.

Just get wider hex adapters for the front end if you need more width.

Additional hexes (wider ones) already come with every TT-02 kit! So no need to spend money

Again some pictures of our Super GT series from friday:






And this is how it looks to make these pics xD

Still lookin good...those superGT cars.

yeah, if you want to have your wheel base a bit wider, just use wider 12mm wheel hexes and/or use a wheel spacer outside the wheel hex. I plan to use a 200mm body, so will be using 7mm wheel hexes and a 1mm spacer between the hex and wheel. This will give me about 196mm wheel base ...should be very close to fitting a 200mm body.

look here:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...13&s_maker_id=

YOu can see that the wheel hexes come in various widths, ...you just want to be sure that you get 12mm (that is the size that your wheel will fit over) -standard for 1/10th on road cars. a width of 5mm is standard for a 190mm body, so anything over will get you closer to 200mm ...but remember to double it as you are accounting for both sides of your car (both wheels). ...also, sounds like our kits come w/ hexes that allow for widening? --i haven't seen this, but I am also still building the kit and had some nice aluminum hexes in 7mm lying around.

Hi everyone! Last month I bought a Tamiya TT-02 and found this thread very helpful because I'm new to rc world. I use it for bashing and I'm having a lot of fun!
I'm going to buy some hopups (prop shaft, alu steering, bearings, etc.), so is it a good idea to buy also brushless motor and ESC? What tires are best for bashing?

Don't waste money in tuning parts. Just go for really needed parts. Prop shaft and bearing set are ok. Also a steel pinion will be a good choice.
The alu steering rack is not cheap and won't give you an advantage if you just drive around. I recommend a fan to cool the motor.

If you invest in a brushless set, keep in mind that the drivetrain has its limits. If you go stronger than 9.5t and run with highgrip tires there is a lot of stress and you will have to buy new parts.

For the tires: if you buy the standard competition outdoor sets from Solaris, Ride, Sorex or Volante the car will stick on the road. No need to pay the same money for Tamiya rims, foam and rubber.

Great link and info, thank you! The kit does come with wider hexes, but I think the kit provided hexes make changing tires an exercise in "oh crap wires the little pin thing".

Bearing are always a must. I've got quite a bit of hop-ups in my TT02, and I use it for bashing. Sometimes adding the parts and working on it is half the fun (for me at least).

I've found that the steering kit and turnbuckles are very useful, and helped me enjoy the kit more as it's more fun to drive with less steering slop.

So far here's what I've added, and some thoughts:
* Bearings - must have. I wouldn't build the kit without them. You can get them on the cheap if you're jsut bashing. I used the "Fast Eddy" bearing kit.
* Oil dampers - I got the Yeah Racing 55mm ones. They're cheap, and helped a lot. I'd call them a must.
* Universals. A must in my opinion. Very first curb I hit I popped a dogbone. Next day the universals were on the way to me. I'd say get the steel ones from GPM, but I couldn't find them so I want with the Yeah Racing Alum/Steel ones. I'd probably regret the alum if I really nail something, but I have spares.
* GPM clamp style wheel hexes - not really on my "must" list, but make tire changing easier (they keep the pin captive), and you wont crush the plastic hexes if you over tighten
* Alum steering kit, again from Yeah Racing. Is it needed? No. But I hated the slop in my steering. I also got the turnbuckle kit and together they helped a lot with the slop.
* Alum prop and outdrives. Got them to future proof as I stepped up to brushless motors.
* High speed gear set - Needed if you plan on tinkering with gearing options.
* Alum 2 degree camber rear uprights. Not needed, but the upside is the car tracks more planted under power.
* Alum motor mount - If you plan on going brushless this could turn in to must as it acts as a heat sink and the plastic one could warp with hotter motors. I have two TT02 kits (no fun raining yourself). One one kit is the Tamiya, but I run a low FDR gearing on mine (setup with help this thread) on mine I switched to the Yeah Racing mount, as it makes gear meshing easier when you don't have to keep guessing what hole might work that's not on the cheat sheet.

Recently I went with a Hobby Justock 17.5 and Esc combo. I could have used the provided ESC (it supports sensored BL motors, from what I understand safely down to 10.5 turns). For the price I went with the combo, so I can use kit ESC in future projects. The 17.5 adds a nice bit of zip over the torque tuned 540, while not being too quick for my meager skills. The combo of the 17.5 and gearing setup has really made the car a blast to drive.

This car is really cheap and fun, i´m using mine on rallycross and is awesome!!

Thanks for your answers and hopups advice.
Yesterday I was bashing in the parking lot and I ran my car into the tyre of a car the motor was damaged by the impact and now it doesn't run. It seems like something inside the can is stuck. Is there a way to open it and check the damage?

When you say "doesn't run" does it sound likes it's spinning but no power to spur? That might be a loose pinion gear. If you get nothing when you grab the throttle, but the steering works, it could point to the impact damaging the ESC, which is pretty unlikely, but could be diagnosed with a cheap multi-meter to see if voltage is getting to the motor.

Can't say I've eve heard of an impact killing a silver can motor. You can certainly burn out a motor a number of different ways.

When you hit the tyre, did it get stuck, and you then perhaps tried to reverse it? The kit provided ESC does have voltage/current protection built in, but it's more likely you burned out the ESC than broke the motor.

Hopefully the motor trying to spin, and the pinion simply needs to be retightened.

Sorry for my bad English (I'm Italian ). I searched for TT-02 infos and this was the most useful thread I found, so I decided to register.
I mean the motor itself doesn't spin. When I grab the throttle, voltage to the motor is 7,9V. I dissassembled the car to check diffs and gears and everything is ok. I'm spinning the motor shaft by hand, but it doesn't spin.

Cables are still connected to the motor? Maybe a solder joint broke?