Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread >

Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
R/C Tech Forums Expert How-Tos and Guides
Last edit by:
Print Wikipost
Like Tree22Likes

Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
R/C Tech Forums Expert How-Tos and Guides
Last edit by:
Print Wikipost
Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-15-2015 | 09:03 AM
  #916  
wittyname's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,884
From: Hampton Roads
Default

Originally Posted by mourinho
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.

on a normal car they attach like this:



on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:





it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:



and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.

hope that helps


Little trick for those that don't want to spend the dough for the 30mm blocks , an old buggy wheel with one glue bead neatly trimmed off with scissors is right at 30mm. Use them anytime you make camber or toe adjustments with the wheels and tires on the car . Just put them under the chassis and push the car down while you make your adjustments. Makes things go pretty quick and much more accurate than the drop, crank , measure method
wittyname is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 12:45 PM
  #917  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 403
Default

I have a question about the tapered 4 x 1.8mm shock pistons that come stock in the EB48.3.
Which direction Taper up-( / \ ) or taper down -( \ / ) will produce more rebound damping?
RC Geezer is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 01:23 PM
  #918  
wittyname's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,884
From: Hampton Roads
Default

Whichever direction the taper "points' will have less resistance.

Taper down , piston travels down with less dampening.

Taper up , piston travels up with less dampening .
wittyname is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 01:45 PM
  #919  
jason07's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 222
Default

Originally Posted by qstorm777
The kit comes with alum vented shock caps tkr6003. The caps have a vent hole in top of the cap. You can buy aluminum non-vented shock caps tkr6003b or buy the plastic shock caps (tkr6018). If you want emulsion shocks, you have to buy the plastic caps (tkr6018) and drill according to the manual. The plastic shock caps are standard by default, but you can drill them according to the manual to achieve vented or emulsion shocks.
OHHHH ok I get it. My kit came with aluminum caps that were already vented. That's what was throwing me off.

Thanks for explanation.
jason07 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 01:47 PM
  #920  
jason07's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 222
Default

Originally Posted by mourinho
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.

on a normal car they attach like this:



on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:





it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:



and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.

hope that helps

I appreciate the visual. I actually tried doing that last night but I couldn't get it to work. I probably just had a brain fart. I will try it again.
jason07 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 02:24 PM
  #921  
R1Joel's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,183
From: Australia
Default

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Normal screws can get clogged with dirt, a hex is easier to clean off to remove. We did left and right threads because as the shock moves it tries to unthread the shock screws. If we didn't do the left hand threads on that side it would slowly unscrew.
Check your retaining nuts for the top of the shocks, I bet the side opposite the left handed bottom screw has to be re-tightened more often than the other.
Thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense to me now.
R1Joel is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 02:24 PM
  #922  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 46
Default

Delete

Last edited by EricM; 12-15-2015 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Wrong forum
EricM is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 02:54 PM
  #923  
mkl
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,017
Default

Tekno customer service is great, but not sure about Airtronics service.
Did you meant to post in this thread?
mkl is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 07:04 PM
  #924  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 855
From: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Default Steering

I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
qstorm777 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 07:12 PM
  #925  
wittyname's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,884
From: Hampton Roads
Default

Originally Posted by qstorm777
I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
That's the set up on mine right now. There seems to be plenty of adjustment in the towers and hubs to get what I want . just need a little time
wittyname is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 09:40 PM
  #926  
jason07's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 222
Default

Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.

When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
jason07 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 09:41 PM
  #927  
wrightcs77's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (551)
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,829
From: Blaine, MN
Default

Originally Posted by jason07
Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.

When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
Eye to eye, on the car.
wrightcs77 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 10:08 PM
  #928  
jason07's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 222
Default

Originally Posted by wrightcs77
Eye to eye, on the car.

That's what I thought. Why can't I get it to 120mm front and 134 on the back?
jason07 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 10:09 PM
  #929  
wrightcs77's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (551)
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,829
From: Blaine, MN
Default

Originally Posted by jason07
That's what I thought. Why can't I get it to 120mm front and 134 on the back?
You have the eb48.3? The sct410.3 and eb48.2 use shorter shocks.

I don't remember my shock lengths off hand, but I had to use the limit screws to shorten to the lutz numbers.
wrightcs77 is offline  
Old 12-15-2015 | 10:23 PM
  #930  
jason07's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 222
Default

Originally Posted by wrightcs77
You have the eb48.3? The sct410.3 and eb48.2 use shorter shocks.

I don't remember my shock lengths off hand, but I had to use the limit screws to shorten to the lutz numbers.
It is the EB48.3

I played with the limit screws also, I just can't get the number. Its sitting at about 105 on the front now.
jason07 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.