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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.

on a normal car they attach like this:



on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:





it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:



and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.

hope that helps


Little trick for those that don't want to spend the dough for the 30mm blocks , an old buggy wheel with one glue bead neatly trimmed off with scissors is right at 30mm. Use them anytime you make camber or toe adjustments with the wheels and tires on the car . Just put them under the chassis and push the car down while you make your adjustments. Makes things go pretty quick and much more accurate than the drop, crank , measure method
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Old 12-15-2015, 01:45 PM   #917
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I have a question about the tapered 4 x 1.8mm shock pistons that come stock in the EB48.3.
Which direction Taper up-( / \ ) or taper down -( \ / ) will produce more rebound damping?
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:23 PM   #918
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Whichever direction the taper "points' will have less resistance.

Taper down , piston travels down with less dampening.

Taper up , piston travels up with less dampening .
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:45 PM   #919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
The kit comes with alum vented shock caps tkr6003. The caps have a vent hole in top of the cap. You can buy aluminum non-vented shock caps tkr6003b or buy the plastic shock caps (tkr6018). If you want emulsion shocks, you have to buy the plastic caps (tkr6018) and drill according to the manual. The plastic shock caps are standard by default, but you can drill them according to the manual to achieve vented or emulsion shocks.
OHHHH ok I get it. My kit came with aluminum caps that were already vented. That's what was throwing me off.

Thanks for explanation.
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:47 PM   #920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.

on a normal car they attach like this:



on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:





it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:



and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.

hope that helps

I appreciate the visual. I actually tried doing that last night but I couldn't get it to work. I probably just had a brain fart. I will try it again.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:24 PM   #921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Normal screws can get clogged with dirt, a hex is easier to clean off to remove. We did left and right threads because as the shock moves it tries to unthread the shock screws. If we didn't do the left hand threads on that side it would slowly unscrew.
Check your retaining nuts for the top of the shocks, I bet the side opposite the left handed bottom screw has to be re-tightened more often than the other.
Thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense to me now.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:24 PM   #922
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Last edited by EricM; 12-15-2015 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Wrong forum
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:54 PM   #923
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Tekno customer service is great, but not sure about Airtronics service.
Did you meant to post in this thread?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:04 PM   #924
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I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:12 PM   #925
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I've seen a few comments about lack of off power steering. Is that with using Joe Bornhorst Wicked NB48 setup? I never had the previous version of the EB so I can't compare to that. For me, off power wise, it was on par with my serpent. I did get some push on-power. I think it might be because I used Associated 7K in front and center diffs. It seems a little thicker than ptrc. In the process of changing that out. Anyway, I was able to go to a 2.5 sway bar in rear and that helped with the on power push. Once I get all the diff oil changed out, I will be curious to see how the .3 turns. I was just curious as to if the lack of off-power steering was occuring with Joe's setup and, if so, had anyone found a fix other than going to the .2 hubs and spindles or using 10 deg hubs?
That's the set up on mine right now. There seems to be plenty of adjustment in the towers and hubs to get what I want . just need a little time
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:40 PM   #926
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Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.

When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:41 PM   #927
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Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
Guys, I am having an issue getting the shock lengths correct. I am trying to set my EB48.3 with the Lutz setup. It calls for the front and rear shocks to be 120mm and 134 respectively. I have tried different springs but not matter what I do I can't get the shocks near long enough. They're anywhere from 15-20 mm too short.

When measuring shocks what is the proper method? off the buggy or on?
Eye to eye, on the car.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:08 PM   #928
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Eye to eye, on the car.

That's what I thought. Why can't I get it to 120mm front and 134 on the back?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:09 PM   #929
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That's what I thought. Why can't I get it to 120mm front and 134 on the back?
You have the eb48.3? The sct410.3 and eb48.2 use shorter shocks.

I don't remember my shock lengths off hand, but I had to use the limit screws to shorten to the lutz numbers.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:23 PM   #930
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
You have the eb48.3? The sct410.3 and eb48.2 use shorter shocks.

I don't remember my shock lengths off hand, but I had to use the limit screws to shorten to the lutz numbers.
It is the EB48.3

I played with the limit screws also, I just can't get the number. Its sitting at about 105 on the front now.
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