I noticed there was slightly more play as well compared to the .2 when I did the upgrade. I didn't bother with adding shims and you should be fine without them.

Arms are brand new. I would say the slop is excessive. Kind of hard to see but heres a picture.

I will build without shims. Ill have to compare it to yours next weekend see if im just being to picky.

Hey just got this thing all hooked up and motor runs in reverse, can change on remote but sensitivity is scary, please help asap thanks!!!

Change motor direction on esc or reverse the diffs

How on tekin rx8 gen2 can't find in manual

Got it thanks bud

+1
Upgraded my 48.2 and your picture looks the same as my buggy.

Count me as another fan of SMC batteries. I normally charge my 6500 4s pack and my 7200 2s packs at 9 amps. I like to keep under 1.5c just to be nice to the packs, and as a result usually get more than 500 cycles out of them (though they're definitely starting to fade a bit prior, but no where near as much as many other brands). I've occasionally charged up at 20 amps though when late for a race. The only thing I had an issue with was a cheap charging lead that got too warm. If you want to charge fast, make good cables and connections.

For the Savox Servos, the older ones ARE power hungry. They made a conscious effort with the 227x series though to be much more efficient with those newer brushless models. I've run the 2274 in a few vehicles now (1 servo, it has been a backup and moved around) off of an RX8 Gen2 running HV and never had a glitch or brownout, despite using Spektrum gear.

Is the Tekin 1900 KV motor enough for the EB48.3 or should I get the 2050?

1900KV is plenty for the 48.3. I think most run one. I think it has very useable power. It is not over the top so the control is better. I think the power band is a bit smoother. I even use a Tekin 1900 buggy motor in my ET48 and it is plenty fast.

Anyone try going thicker then 5k in the rear to get it to loosen up a little?. The rear of mine is so planted running 775. I think maybe 7 in the rear will help it come around a little. Is it taboo to go over 5?

What set up otherwise. After Channing link positions and kick up, the rear rotates much better.

Front short camber link middle hole on tower inner on hub. Rear short link lower on tower second from inside on hub. No front sway. Front shocks inner most hole on tower rear outer most. Added 1 degree of kickup and least amount of rear toe

Is the shock oil that comes with the 48.3 manual cst or wt? Manual says 400wt front 450wt rear. Thanks