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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-12-2016, 11:06 AM   #2236
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
What is your current setup?
AMS 7.0, Diffs 7/7/5, droop 119/135 giving the 3x2.1 pistons a try also
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:11 AM   #2237
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
What is your current setup?
AMS 7.0, Diffs 7/7/5,droop 119/135

Last edited by mxrcracer23; 09-12-2016 at 11:51 AM. Reason: duplicate
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Old 09-12-2016, 02:59 PM   #2238
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Off topic question as i'm still new to the 8th scale world but I was looking at a lot of the under the hood setups that neobuggy showcased for the E-buggy Euro race and noticed that they all use 2x2s lipo setups instead of a single 4s battery. Anyone know why this is? Weight? Capacity?

Anyway, love my .3. Still gives me a big grin every time I drive it.
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:26 PM   #2239
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Originally Posted by littleZEN View Post
Off topic question as i'm still new to the 8th scale world but I was looking at a lot of the under the hood setups that neobuggy showcased for the E-buggy Euro race and noticed that they all use 2x2s lipo setups instead of a single 4s battery. Anyone know why this is? Weight? Capacity?

Anyway, love my .3. Still gives me a big grin every time I drive it.
Must be a Euro thing.. No one at my track runs that.. Although on some older platforms that was the thing to do before the proliferation of large capacity 4s came to market. Maybe in Europe 4s batteries are harder to get?
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:04 AM   #2240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
The force that was applied to have broken that part AND snapped a hinge-pin in half is amazing. I have seen bent hinge pins over the years, but never a sheared off one! I honestly don't think without any of us having seen it that you will get many answers. As mentioned, the best thing is to check your droop settings and ensure the drivetrain is free.
Yea things happen and sometimes it's just unexplainable hahaha. I'm just happy Tekno offers the 50% warrenty so that makes me happy
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:25 AM   #2241
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
Must be a Euro thing.. No one at my track runs that.. Although on some older platforms that was the thing to do before the proliferation of large capacity 4s came to market. Maybe in Europe 4s batteries are harder to get?
It's because EFRA hasn't still hasn't homogenized any 4S packs so on EFRA events you have to run 2x2S packs. On club level most people run 1x4S since it's easier to handle and cheaper.
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:38 AM   #2242
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
You find the box setup to do pretty well?

i tried this today on a dry loose track, and it didn't handle like I was expecting... definitely wasn't stable for me.


i also broke my long battery strap today. >< ugh..
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO county race View Post
Yea it's decent for me. I don't have a track super close so I just adjust my driving rather than the car most of the time. (Either the track is super damn and almost muddy or bone dry) Like I said earlier my next thing to change will be the shock pistons and oil. At the track I run at is pretty easy to over jump and flat land a lot of the jumps with some pretty big acceleration bumps in corners too
I'm running the same setup on my EB and NB, but my shock package is different on both. Works well for me. I had tried the Joe's WW setup, and the Southern nats setup before. Found the ass to be a little more unstable on both setups.

One thing to look at, is if it feels twitchy, to slow down your steering rate. My buddy recently switched to tekno, and we had to turn it down to 70% for him due to how much the tekno responds to input. After running TLR & AE, he just wasn't used to the response.
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:28 AM   #2243
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
What setup change would help best to stop the car's rear end from getting loose when on the brakes or or letting off throttle after a high speed straight. It is not bad but is the only thing I feel I'm having issues with. Just switched to ams 7.0 setup,I'm thinking of limiting rear droop but also wondering about a diff fluid change
without knowing your setup, I wouldn't touch diffs. It sounds like your car transfers too much weight forward as soon as you let off the throttle. That effect is more noticeable when you hit the brakes. I would maybe take a mm rear droop out. Maybe go to thicker shock oils, try lowering the ride height 1mm...

remember that unless we have the total picture, we're all just guessing.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:43 AM   #2244
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
AMS 7.0, Diffs 7/7/5, droop 119/135 giving the 3x2.1 pistons a try also
Haha...some how I missed the AMS setup in your initial post. Like said, yeah reducing the rear droop could help. I never had this problem with the buggies, just the sct. Limiting the rear droop and drooping the antisquat helped me on the sct.

Another thing that helped was making sure the wheels were straight and that I wasn't giving it any steering input at the end of the straight until I was ready to turn.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:56 AM   #2245
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Nice low wing mount. What mount are you using?
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:36 AM   #2246
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I use 18t pinion with my 1900kv setup as well
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:16 PM   #2247
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Hi. I bought 48.3 three months ago. Now I run it on a medium size indoor clay track with all stock settings. I cannot find a setting sheet for clay track from Tekno's website. Anyone who also play on indoor clay could give me some suggestion?
Below is my car:
Tekin rx8 + 1900kv + 18t pinion
Tires: JC Dirt webs or PL electron

With the stock settings, I can feel the car is not very fast in corners, especially when coming out of corners. The first thing I learned from this thread is to change diff oil. Maybe 10-10-5 is a good idea? I use associated oil. Since 48.3 is my first racing car, I don't know much about tuning cars. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:25 PM   #2248
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Originally Posted by Johnyolo View Post
Hi. I bought 48.3 three months ago. Now I run it on a medium size indoor clay track with all stock settings. I cannot find a setting sheet for clay track from Tekno's website. Anyone who also play on indoor clay could give me some suggestion?
Below is my car:
Tekin rx8 + 1900kv + 18t pinion
Tires: JC Dirt webs or PL electron

With the stock settings, I can feel the car is not very fast in corners, especially when coming out of corners. The first thing I learned from this thread is to change diff oil. Maybe 10-10-5 is a good idea? I use associated oil. Since 48.3 is my first racing car, I don't know much about tuning cars. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Look for one of the Neo Race setups and that should get you in the ball park. And I would suggest 7-7-5 PT brand for diffs. That's roughly 5-5-3 AE. If you're on higher bite inside, bump it up some (about 2k each to start)
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:27 PM   #2249
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Look for one of the Neo Race setups and that should get you in the ball park. And I would suggest 7-7-5 PT brand for diffs. That's roughly 5-5-3 AE. If you're on higher bite inside, bump it up some (about 2k each to start)
Thanks Bob! I checked Neobuggy.net but could not find setup for EB48.3. Did you mean setups for other cars also work here?

I will start with 7-7-5 for the diffs and see how it goes. I notice that the center diff can be hot after running for a while. I think that is because motor is hot. But do we usually take the temperature into consider and pick higher weight for center diff?
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:32 PM   #2250
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Any alternatives to the Tekno battery straps? I broke 3 this week... the edges on the guard aren't sharp or anything, so no idea why they are breaking..
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