fantastic information. thanks fellas i appreciate it a ton

What's car are you racing? What's your current setup? List everything about your setup

Add caster (max) and less camber (0-.5deg) and sauce away. 1/2 to 3/4 of the tire or get some harder fronts.

Currently racing xray. I've tried a lot of different setting to get rid of that.
First, with no front sauce and a bad understeer I used a lot of caster and the stock front spring to help the car to keep the line at mid and exit corner. Nothing worked. Then I tried the other way around: eliminate caster and let the fronts to "scrub" at corner exit on power, to "grind " the murble out. Nothing.
Ok. Then I sauced. Finally the fronts kept clean but then I had impossible steering. I reduced tons of EPA and steering speed and EXP. Still impossible oversteer getting into the corner. Ok then I started swearing and added caster and a stiff CRC front spring. Gained very little stability but she started to diff out at hairpins. The sensibilty of the front end was so impossible that at 50percent of epa she would turn around if forcing the entry....
Ride height was 3.5-3.8-4.0 front to back. Enneti tyres 40 f 30 r. I played a lot with other parameters but the feeling remained the same. Other xrays on track were using my same rears and eventually softer 35 front, FULL SAUCED, and kept excellent stability and easyness. Only noticeable difference was their battery, in line, vs mine transverse.
I managed 13 hours of practice before calling it over.
Do you think that just the position of the cell can justify that difference??? I don't, but I'm not an expert

First your ride height should be 3.4, 3.4, 3.4 mm.

Front spring?
Center damper spring?
Center damper oil?
Side springs?
Pod droop?
Pod sag?
Side damper oil?
Camber?
Front toe?
Tire size? Front? Rear?

Inline battery setup is easier to drive and doesn't seem to snap in hard corners due to the on/off power transition. Transverse provides more on power rear bite and requires smoother power control cause the transition can cause the car to go from understeer to oversteer fast as well as causing the car to rotate and dig in on hard corners resulting in traction rolling issues depending on the tires (size in dia and shore).

last config has been center stock spring, 300 oil. Hard side springs with 40k in tubes. 1mm droop, little sag just noticeable. 2* camber 1* toe out.
41 mm f and 42 mm rears. Car well built, balanced and free. Hours spent on the bench with park payne's blog and on point vids hahaha!

Starting with same height f to r wouldn't lead to a lower rear & on power oversteer at the last minutes??

In your experience is a full front tyre treatment a usual practice or you think is better to sauce less? Generally speaking....

Sounds like you were running a tire from the pink, magenta, purple family.. Go to a double blue. Purple family will always get sticky and do inconsistent things on a dirty or fuzzy track.

Personally, I like to use dbl blues and sauce the whole tire so it stays consistent through the run. However, I do play with the sauce amount depending on the humidity that day. The more humid it is, the less I sauce because traction comes up. When it gets dry, the buildup happens more and I need that sauce to keep my steering for the whole run.

On yours, I can now see why it is so hard to drive your car. The stiff side springs and thick side tube lube is a huge factor. We run 10k in the tubes and Xray soft silver side springs. The straight ones not the coned ones. If I were you, I would change that right away. Also since it is an xray, use the long shock setup.

I'm using long center shock as per manual. I will definitely try softer side springs.
We don't follow the colour scale for tires. We differentiate between them by shore, like in nitro. We just divide them into the two big families of carpet tyres and asphalt tires, so I find always confusing all the discussions about pinks magentas blus dbl pinks etc....
We usually run 25 or 30s at the back and 30 to 40 at the front. This is the range more or less

If you only distinguish by shore, you are unable to make the distinction between tires from two different families that have the same shore. For instance, you have no way to differentiate between a Magenta (roughly 35 shore, depending on the manufacturer) and a Blue (also roughly 35 shore, depending on the manufacturer.) Same could be same for a Pink vs a Green, etc.

If you only use tires from a single family it doesn't matter as much, but there have been some pretty good developments in tires over the past couple of years...

What 1s packs do you guys use? I may be in the market for some new ones soon and I just want to know what's hot and reliable.

before doing anything else, if the track is flat try 3,4 -3,5 -3,5 ride height and about 1,5mm of droop in the middle (so 5,0mm ride height). try also bigger size difference in tires. if your tires wear more from rear and car picks up oversteer because of that, change your tyre hardness so that the tires wear more evenly.
anyway, try to keep front end - middle and rear ride height almost to the same, it helps on-power to off-power transitions and handling in direction changes a lot.

Any of the new 7500-8000 packs
They are all good